Markswebpages Posted April 5, 2015 Author Share Posted April 5, 2015 Most people opt for a single servo, Savox 1256 is a popular choice. External BEC is always a good idea, cheap as chips from Hobbyking. Don't forget to disengage the red cable on the ESC Rx cable. So how do you do convert to a single servo? I'll have to look into that as it sounds better and I'd rather spend out on one decent servo than two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted April 5, 2015 Share Posted April 5, 2015 No conversion needed, just take two out and replace with one. You can buy single servo swing arms, but it's not necessary. The BEC can then be mounted into the spare servo hole, just fabricate a mounting plate from a piece of plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 10, 2015 Author Share Posted April 10, 2015 Just so happens that the correct servo and ubec have appeared in the for sale section. So a deal was agreed and payment sent, conversion to single servo will follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted April 14, 2015 Author Share Posted April 14, 2015 So time for some upgrades. Got this savox servo And this So once I've figured out how best to wire it in we should be good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 Time for a bit of Summit love. I got this in the post yesterday So hopefully I can replace these horrible things that don't stay adjusted or keep their boots on They came on it when I got it from the PO, it also had the wishbones in aluminium but I too those off as they has bent all of the pivot rods. Hopefully the pinion should be here later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 This also arrived today. It's 12v and I was a bit worried, but a bit of research says other than watching temps (will get or adapt a fan for it) it shouldn't be a problem. So need to get the pinion off and extend the mounting holes. Also waiting for a pinion and spur but DPD didn't deliver and the tried to BS their way out. So I'll probably let it go back to the sender and get it somewhere else. Not the sends fault but very frustrating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I've never broken a hub carrier on any Maxx or Revo that I've owned, I just don't see the need for ally at that part of the truck. Good news about the motor, saves trying to source another. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 I've never broken a hub carrier on any Maxx or Revo that I've owned, I just don't see the need for ally at that part of the truck. Good news about the motor, saves trying to source another. I will never use aluminium suspension parts on anything. This came from the PO with all aluminium front suspension, it had bent all of the pins as it had no give. I kept the hub carrier's because I wanted to change the gators, but I always wanted to change them because they never stayed adjusted up and the bearings where never a snug fit. Changing back has removed a lot of play in the hubs. Apparently the 12v motor isn't as quick but has a fraction more torque, however depending on gearing needs extra cooling. We will see how it goes, he also sent bearings to replace the standard ones in the motor but opening it up seems a big risk. Also have two sets of brushes spare. Anyway old pinion is off Just got to grind the flat and extend the holes in the mount, then I'm just waiting on sorting the pinion and cooler which should have been here today [emoji36] [emoji36] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 So a bit more before bed (work tomorrow boo). Flat ground Holes adapted with a Dremel, was a smug fit and with a file it would have taken a lot longer but not impossible. Using the Dremel meant I could try and keep the taper so the bolts sat nice and flush still though. Wiring and capacitors tomorrow. Need to try and sort out the whole DPD debacle tomorrow or order a pinion and spur from another supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Looking good mate exactly how I fitted mine using the stock mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 6, 2016 Author Share Posted January 6, 2016 49 minutes ago, stretch said: Looking good mate exactly how I fitted mine using the stock mount. Thanks, it's my first go at really modifying stuff. I'm mechanically and logically minded but I always worry about it not being good enough or right when I'm done. This little session has really reminded me of a big chunk of the reason I love RC buggies though. I have a stressful job with often long hours, it's great just to switch off and tinker. Looking forward to trying to figure out some extra cooling, I've ordered a twin fan setup for an 8th scale brushless motor, it was cheap but I'm hoping with a Dremel, tie wraps and a little creativity I can make something that works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Hopefully it'll be fast enough, if not, hunt down a 14.4? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 Hopefully it'll be fast enough, if not, hunt down a 14.4? I think it'll still be quicker than standard, I'm no speed freak to be honest. I'm more concerned about the hassle and mess of running cooling. Some info suggest it's almost OK to run without, some says it's difficult to keep temperatures reasonable. Wait and see I guess, I've never checked the standard motor so no idea what's normal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 7, 2016 Author Share Posted January 7, 2016 Finally managed to get hold of my missing parcel. So i opted for a 17t pinion having read various opinions that varied between 16 and 18. Kept the standard spur though and ordered but not fitted yet a HD slipper kit. Anyway it is alive as they say! Not sure what to do about cooling right now as I completely miss judged what I thought would be a simple adaption of a twin fan cooler. So maybe back to the drawing board with that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 16, 2016 Author Share Posted January 16, 2016 Took the Summit out today. The motor has changed this truck completely. It's a complete animal now, but still not too fast that it's unusable. It's freezing out so difficult to give an accurate judgement but motor certainly didn't feel hot (or any hotter than the original one got). I just went for a bit of a general bash around Greenham Common then to a sports field that just happened to be quite muddy Nothing broke so I must have got the conversion right, I was worried it would just break something because of the extra torque. So the conclusion...... I'm probably going to be a bit controversial here, but actually I'm not sure it's really worth the effort. Reasons Not 100% sure because I'd used the lipo's for testing but my run time certainly seems to have been cut down by maybe as much as half (currently running 5200mah 2S LiPo's). This could be a gearing issue I suppose but nothing seemed hot? So much power now that you have to think before just applying throttle, especially if you've just reversed. Lost some steering responsiveness because of the extra speed and torque. I know this could possibly be cured with different wheels and tyres, but I suspect it would then compromise it's crawling ability. So what it appears on first impressions is that I've turned a great all rounder into a basher. Great for some I'm sure but a tiny bit disappointing for me. So options are spend half the value of the truck on higher capacity LiPo's, wheels and tyres (probably not an option for someone like me on a budget) Or accept that this mod isn't for me and put it back to standard again. Open to any helpful suggestions or tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Surprised to hear you don't like the conversion.... That said, I run 7600mah packs and much bigger wheels than stock, works fine for my bashing style with the Summit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) On 18/01/2016 at 8:33 AM, Noj said: Surprised to hear you don't like the conversion.... That said, I run 7600mah packs and much bigger wheels than stock, works fine for my bashing style with the Summit. I think that you've hit the nail square on the head right there. As was with 5200mha I used to be able to run for what felt like forever (never timed it) even when charging around in a field I rarely had to use my backup NiMh packs. Certainly when trailing I think I've always run out of energy before the truck. I think I'll order another mount and solder some cables back on the old motor and maybe just switch between the two. I love my RC collection but as much as I'd love to modify and upgrade more, but spending the best part of £150 on decent LiPo's and probably another £70-£100+ on wheels and tyres just for a bit more speed and torque just isn't an option for me. We'll see it was it's first outing so another proper go will give me a better idea. I was flat out most of the time in big open muddy areas. Edited January 19, 2016 by Markswebpages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 With my 6000mah packs and 14v dewalt i'm able to run it until i get bored, even on a family walk around a forrest it still made it back to the car on single set of batteries. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) On 19/01/2016 at 06:57, stretch said: With my 6000mah packs and 14v dewalt i'm able to run it until i get bored, even on a family walk around a forrest it still made it back to the car on single set of batteries. I'm not sure what's gone on here to be honest. Maybe it's the 12v motor? Maybe I need to do a bit more homework on gearing? Admittedly 5200mah isn't big capacity by many people's standards, but I've been out on some fairly long jaunts with it. I don't know really some careful though is required before rushing into the next phase. It's not a disaster by any stretch, but just not what I was expecting (although thinking about it now I don't know what I was expecting?). I'm also a bit OCD about things working properly and although I loved tinkering something keeps nagging away in my head telling me that the drive train will be toast in half a dozen goes. That's not helping either. Edited March 14, 2016 by Markswebpages Crazy tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 If you were doing lots of full speed passes, that's probably what shortened the runtime. Trail-walk it with lots of use of low gear and that'll probably prolong the run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) Thought seeing as I had the bits I may as well change the slipper for the upgraded part and replace the spur. Out with the old In with the new I'll finish it tomorrow night. Another tiny disappointment was the motor has flash rusted in a couple of places, presumably from my hosing it down after my mud bogging. I normally dry my buggies off and the give the a thorough coating of gt85, but it was freezing cold and my to my wife's disgust I washed the worst off outside, then finished them off in the bath. The downside was I didn't spray them down, I'm hoping it's just my laziness that's caused it. I'm not a huge water fan after learning the hard way like a lot of you, but I'd like it not to rust at the merest hint of moisture. Anyway ideas? Edited March 14, 2016 by Markswebpages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Simple; don't get it wet. I used to wet-run, but the bearings would rust, then collapse, this would drop gears out of mesh, the gears would then smash each other to pieces. For me, it just wasn't worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 (edited) On 19/01/2016 at 21:23, Tug said: If you were doing lots of full speed passes, that's probably what shortened the runtime. Trail-walk it with lots of use of low gear and that'll probably prolong the run. Yeah to be fair I went out with a mate and his hex first, I was obviously a bit excitable as it was the maiden voyage, so a lot of charging around at full chat and some long high-speed ish runs with him trying to film me. Then I loaded up and stopped on the way back when I spotted the mud and thought why not! So I was quite literally trying to get it as messy as possible, because that's what you do in the mud right? Maybe it was just my over enthusiasm, it just didn't feel like it lasted as long as normal. I will take it out trailing next time on a route I've done before and see what it's like. Maybe dropping another tooth on the pinion might help? Although acceleration was pretty brisk and nothing seemed too hot. It could be I suppose the cold didn't help either and the Lipo's had been charged a few days prior and used from testing etc during the build. Edited March 14, 2016 by Markswebpages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markswebpages Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 Right so I've run it twice now. Two things are very apparent. 1. what I thought was a short runtime was in fact the esc cutting out due to over heating. It certainly runs very hot both motor and esc. 2. Although the power is much better I find it a bit over the top. Standing back flips are amusing for about five minutes. Much more thought is required before applying the throttle, this (for me at least) takes some of the fun way. So i need to think about looking for the right dewalt motor. Then I need help with gearing as I'm not sure what to try next to make the speed more controllable. I think plan A is to go back to stock until I have some funds and order the proper Kershaw conversion from the states. Then a bit more homework on gearing and a selection of ratios so I can try and get a better setup for general bashing /trailing. So an interesting project, but disappointed with the outcome. It was my fault for being impatient and ordering the 12v motor on eBay because I just suddenly got the urge to do the conversion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tug Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 What about 3S? Although I don't think that's possible with the stock ESC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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