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Soo I got my savage


pockets snakes

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Manual for all the Savage models can be downloaded from HPI

 

http://www.hpiracing.com/en/instructions

 

or from the link below. They are great that way!

 

http://www.competitionx.com/hpi-racing-manuals/

 

I would suggest downloading the 25, SS and X manuals, as it will help you to work out which bits are which, check which part numbers are what, and generally come in really handy if you look at the pages and your truck doesn't look like it should. Then you can use part numbers to search on E-Bay if you need spares.

 

Once you know the basic layout of a Savage, they are dead easy to work on :)

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You probably just need to get it warmed up properly, idling isn't the best way as it just loads up the crankcase with oil and you get bogging like you experienced. Get it started and gently blip the throttle with the wheels off the ground for a few seconds then run it around for a few minutes, being gentle and not using full throttle until its warmed up.

Remember the engines are tuned when up to operating temperature, the tune is all wrong when cold, but that's just the way it is.

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How was the weather when they tuned it to how it is now its foggy around me so could mess with it. Or a new glow plug mayb.

Its normal common stuff tho lol one min they run excellent the next play up its usually just variables tho. Don't give up

I tried brushless after getting tired with nitro but i still had problems the difference was with brushless they meant spending alot to fix.

Nitro fixs are usually bench time or other service items. seals , bearings ect.

To rip up the feild tho you'll need a petrol lol they do damage to parks but its best not too or no rc signs will be around the corner.

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The engine is probably loaded with fuel. Disconnect the fuel line from the carb, take the glow plug out , turn the car upside down and crank the engine over till it stops spitting fuel from the glow plug hole. Re-fit the fuel line, replace the plug and start the engine. DON'T IDLE IT, just drive it. See if that works. 

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Few things from the vid you posted in another thread..... ( would be more useful if you posted it here with the ongoing discussion )

 

1) If it runs better with the glow starter left on for a few minutes...Leave it on for a few minutes. It won't do any harm, and will allow your motor to get some warmth. Soon as it starts, you are taking it off and I reckon the motor needs a bit of help. If the glow plug has got fouled, which can happen with excess fuel, then that won't help low speed running.

 

2) On the third attempt, when it rolled off at a crawl....give it some throttle and get the revs up. Gently....not ramming it wide open...but not crawling along. If it won';t rev...then you do have a tuning/plug issue for sure.

 

3) When the shop tuned the car...what was the weather like? When the conditions change, the tuning will need adjusting. Nitro engine tunes are never fixed and always need to be fiddled with when conditions change

 

4) Lastly...your shocks have no preload adjusters on them. REALLY needs some preload. The truck is just not rising back to normal height when you pushed it down. Should be a pair of clip on preload adjusters on each shock.

 

p.s. DO NOT run the car with the transmitter power off.

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Few things from the vid you posted in another thread..... ( would be more useful if you posted it here with the ongoing discussion )

1) If it runs better with the glow starter left on for a few minutes...Leave it on for a few minutes. It won't do any harm, and will allow your motor to get some warmth. Soon as it starts, you are taking it off and I reckon the motor needs a bit of help. If the glow plug has got fouled, which can happen with excess fuel, then that won't help low speed running.

2) On the third attempt, when it rolled off at a crawl....give it some throttle and get the revs up. Gently....not ramming it wide open...but not crawling along. If it won';t rev...then you do have a tuning/plug issue for sure.

3) When the shop tuned the car...what was the weather like? When the conditions change, the tuning will need adjusting. Nitro engine tunes are never fixed and always need to be fiddled with when conditions change

4) Lastly...your shocks have no preload adjusters on them. REALLY needs some preload. The truck is just not rising back to normal height when you pushed it down. Should be a pair of clip on preload adjusters on each shock.

p.s. DO NOT run the car with the transmitter power off.

Sorry taptalk won't allow me to post is a thread I've already started

Also I drain all fuel out fully took the pipe off the carb and ran it till it stoped put fresh stuff in and same thing happend again

He tuned it in the shop witch I dunno if right he started ran it up warm then loads of throttle adjusted as and when

I've never tuned a nitro as of yet I'm yet to tune my ts4n witch is Spitting tons of fuel out

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It won't ...... 

 

with the radio off, you have no control over the throttle. It will just sit where the servo was last. If you actually had the servo powered up, the failsafe should kick in...close the throttle and put on the brakes.

 

Indicates you are either winding trim on the servo, or have the throttle servo badly set up so it's holding the throttle open, rather than the throttle sitting in the fully closed position.

 

It's also dangerous....as should the car rev up and the clutch engage, you have no way of stopping it. DO NOT DO IT.

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Oh no I'm just saying when everything was off i used the trottle link when was off the ground and was running good but once i turned all back off it bog out again that's why i took a pic of the hidden panel with everything at 10 from 1 witch I didn't know

Well I found an adjustable panel on my controls today and I notice the car idles better when power is off

So what I'm go na try and see of the car will run on the throttle on the car if it will then ill have to fiddle with my tx

7dc1fca931bd613844cb486bef292d6d.jpg

Witch is what I said here
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