Car moves in idle. any help would be appreciated.

[turtletom100]

Hi all so I have got the firestorm running (turned it I needed a shim) thanks to someone else in this forum for helping with that.

Now it runs I have 2 questions with the way she is running.

1st question - when trying to start from cold it takes about 5/6 pulls and/or let the glow plug starter/heater stay there for about 20-30 seconds before trying, or heat the engine block up using a hair dryer to warm the engine up.

As soon as the engine is warmed up whether that be any of the ways above or if she has being run first she starts 1st/2nd pull fine. I'm hoping it is just where I have had the engine out and stripped the carb it just needs a few tanks run through again. Any advice would be nice. :-)

Second question - when the car idles it wants to move forward so I have to use the brake to stop this from happening which obviously means that the clutch will wear out alot quicker. And is annoying to say the least. I am anxious/nervous with playing with any of the needles as I find it an absolute pia to deal with. But will if needs be. Just not sure what one I will need to tweak. She seems to run fine don't bog when using brake or full throttle, the smoke seems to be fine only really smoke when apply the throttle. I have upped a video and not sure if you can see at times when the cars kind of rolling but can hear the engine that is idle. And can see the smoke when accelerating.

Any help would be really appreciated I am not very Nitroholic so any help would be appreciated :-)

[jordan_bench10]

idle needs lowering

the little screw at the rear or front of the crb with a sping on

[J.K]

Yup with the car on the floor turn your idle screw down - anti clockwise I think just to the point at which the car stops moving. If you pull the air filter off you want no more than a 1-1.5mm gap in the carb.

[R46]

if idle is normal NOT racing then most likely the clutch spring snapped

[turtletom100]

idle needs lowering

the little screw at the rear or front of the crb with a sping on

Thankyou for replying.

To lower the idle is it anti clockwise or clockwise?

[turtletom100]

if idle is normal NOT racing then most likely the clutch spring snapped

What do you mean if idle is normal not racing? I dont think its anything with the clutch as I fitted new triple ansa (i think the name/brand was)

But is there any tell tale signs without taking the whole lot off?

Stupid me just realised I didn't put the video on here is the video sorry guys

She's running.:

[turtletom100]

Yup with the car on the floor turn your idle screw down - anti clockwise I think just to the point at which the car stops moving. If you pull the air filter off you want no more than a 1-1.5mm gap in the carb.

You answered my question thankyou. So I have to put car in floor and turn the idle screw anti clockwise I will make a note if how many turns and hopefully this fixes that. :-)

Thankyou for replying :-)

[R46]

What do you mean if idle is normal not racing? I dont think its anything with the clutch as I fitted new triple ansa (i think the name/brand was)

 

 

from watching vid i see that the clutch spring/s is too soft, which brand is it  ( i knew ansa catered for 1:1 now rc   ) did clutch kit come with additional spring/s?

[turtletom100]

from watching vid i see that the clutch spring/s is too soft, which brand is it  ( i knew ansa catered for 1:1 now rc   ) did clutch kit come with additional spring/s?

What do you mean they are too soft? And yes it was a complete new kit shoes and springs I have read else where if it was the clutch/springs it would die when braking/stopping. But it doesn't die don't even bog down. So I am hoping it is just the idle screw.

But now you got me wondering about these. I am about 80% sure they were ansa.

[atom3624]

The stronger the spring, the better the ability of the clutch to retain the friction surfaces away from the clutch bell.

The weaker the spring(s), the sooner the shoe(s) will start 'grabbing'.

 

They rely on centrifugal / lack-of-centripetal force. Faster the engine revs, the harder the shoe(s) fly out, contacting the bell.

 

This was one of my options yesterday.

 

I mentioned the idle did NOT seem to be too high, perhaps only a little.

If you reduce the idle too low, then it will start stalling, which is a pain in the bum!

 

Don't you love nitro? !!

Trust me, when you get it right you will both enjoy it, and appreciate it more as YOU GOT IT RIGHT.

 

HappyDays.com 

 

Al.

[turtletom100]

I get what you are saying now cheers. And yea have to love nitro lol j dint mind it moving when idle but where I use the brake to hold it still I think I will be wearing my clutch quicker.

[Garry45]

I get what you are saying now cheers. And yea have to love nitro lol j dint mind it moving when idle but where I use the brake to hold it still I think I will be wearing my clutch quicker.

Can't you reduce your idle with the trim on your handset???

I don't mind a higher idle till the engine is upto temp then I reduce the idle by the tx trim

Garry

[atom3624]

That should be set up properly anyway .... but ...

The idea's a gud'un.

 

I always used to increase the idle in the way suggested until I'd made a couple of passes, then I'd return to normal / default.

 

Al.

[abarth_1200]

Your really have to get stuck in and make mistakes to learn from them if your going to get the best of his hobby, you literally can't just tweak one needle, the process of setting up a nitro engine involves steps of adjusting at least two needles. Never mind the idle needle.

But I would check your throttle trim on your tx isn't turned up before touching the needles if your not ready.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[turtletom100]

Your really have to get stuck in and make mistakes to learn from them if your going to get the best of his hobby, you literally can't just tweak one needle, the process of setting up a nitro engine involves steps of adjusting at least two needles. Never mind the idle needle.

But I would check your throttle trim on your tx isn't turned up before touching the needles if your not ready.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Cheers for the reply I appreciate what you saying and have being trying but where I haven't got a clear u sera ganging just yet of the needles I get partly confused with them still.

I have checked the throttle trim and it is down as low as it will go so it's not that. I have tinkered with the idle screw like said above and it may have helped a fraction but it's still not right idle shell still move away and engine rev.

Would it be anything to do with hsn or lsn?

[turtletom100]

Can't you reduce your idle with the trim on your handset???

I don't mind a higher idle till the engine is upto temp then I reduce the idle by the tx trim

Garry

The trim on the controller is all the way down. I have played with the idle and it has made minor differences but she still moves on idle it's it just a creeping pace it is like the throttle is being pulled part of the way in so I am not sure what to try next. I was thinking low speed needle but not sure if this correct.

[Nitro-Guy69]

is it poss that it could be the throttle linkage, or the gap on the carb(remove airfilter & look down) on a friends car he bought someone had messed with the linkage so when it was at "idle" the carb was still open more than the recommended 1mm-ish

 

maybe something along those lines??

[turtletom100]

is it poss that it could be the throttle linkage, or the gap on the carb(remove airfilter & look down) on a friends car he bought someone had messed with the linkage so when it was at "idle" the carb was still open more than the recommended 1mm-ish

 

maybe something along those lines??

So idle it shoukd be at about 1mm gap then what should it be with throttle fully open and fully shut?

[Nitro-Guy69]

well throttle fully shut is idle really & should have about a 1mm gap(its not always strictly 1mm), with your radio gear on, pull trigger fully back(on the transmitter, like acclerating) while looking down where the air filter goes & you should see that 'gap' open fully hope that makes some sense

Edited October 16, 2014 by Nitro-Guy69

[Nitro-Guy69]

i seen this link posted befor so should be ok, on the link below scroll down to "setting your carb" will give you a better idea

 

http://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/threads/nitro-tuning-tips-and-tuning-flow-chart.60832/#post-537066

[turtletom100]

well throttle fully shut is idle really & should have about a 1mm gap(its not always strictly 1mm), with your radio gear on, pull trigger fully back(on the transmitter, like acclerating) while looking down where the air filter goes & you should see that 'gap' open fully hope that makes some sense

Well I just sone a quick video but 2 things I have noticed is first thing - gap looks far too big

second thing after brake applied surely it should open up when the brake is let go?

[turtletom100]

I have just tried adjusting the idle screw but it don't seem to be doing nothing now.

Broke?:

I

[boombox]

Hold full brake whilst adjusting the screw so you get a 1mm gap on idle

[turtletom100]

Hold full brake whilst adjusting the screw so you get a 1mm gap on idle

I have tried this and got the gap to close a bit more but it still open well to much and the idle is more like full throttle proper pia I not sure why it is doing this never really had to play around with the needles too much.

[Garry45]

As long as your HSN is factory set or tuned the idle is solely controlled by the LSN and idle screw.

I had the same problem and at one point couldn't even get it started as I messed up the needles so bad.

my thought is the reason u cant adjust the idle screw and throttle trim on the TX to lower the idle speed is the actual throttle linkage!!!

Again had your problem and adjusted that and it works as it should.

Only a suggestion so maybe worth a look

Garry