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Will this work?


turtletom100

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Has anyone bought this charger

Etronix Powerpal 80w AC/DC Performance Charger/discharger

only reason I ask is because I am looking one for nimh and lipo this does both and seems to balance lipo and also got discharge feature in it so would imagine it would have a read out off how much charge it has/how long Is left charging.

I also want to know what the biggest nimh battery can be bought at the moment. And is there a way to test how much mah is in your battery for example have received a used battery from a friend says It's 3500mah but can I meter this and check it?

Cheers

Tom

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Also looking to upgrade my ftx carnage brushed to brushless and have read that this would work but does this come with the esc and motor?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00BN36M0A?pc_redir=1407800023&robot_redir=1

Would I need lipo to rum this motor or could I use nimh for the moment?

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You can use the discharge function to check the capacity of your battery.

A 7.2v NiMH will run anything that a 7.4 lipo will, you just have to bear in mind that the NiMH packs are much less capable than Lipo. I wouldn't spend money on NiMH, they are OK for an rtr or to get a model going,but not as an upgrade.

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Cheers David Allen I do want to go lipo but want to change the motor first (will that one in the link be ok?)

Capri-boy once again you have come to my rescue that will be ordered font suppose you know whether that brushless motor I linked will work with 2s lipo I'm the ftx carnage I have read through the ftx carnage thread and there are people saying r hey used 3s then others saying 2s max ads 3s can burn out also i have read if I do go lipo I won't be ads be to use tamiya connection because they just seem to melt? is this accurate or is that aimed at more cheaper ones from eBay as i just saw on the overlander charger page can buy the connector tamiya to crocodile

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Tom, 

 

Get the Overlander charger, rc6-vsp - it'll do nimh, lipo balance charging and works well off mains and 12v batt.

 

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsp-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-charger-with-fan/rc-car-products/379060

 

0002604a.jpg

Best charger on the market, has built in PSU so you can charge at much higher amps. Think it,ll do upto 7amp.

Have one myself and one of the best buys Ive made this year.

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dont get the stuff from amazon its teribad for price. 

 

brushless version comes with what they say is a 60a esc.

so the motor kv is around 4000kv more so between 3000kv-4200kv

 

dunno but i know at one time modelsport did a

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Tom,  Get the Overlander charger, rc6-vsp - it'll do nimh, lipo balance charging and works well off mains and 12v batt. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/overlander-rc6-vsp-80watt-7a-output-ac-dc-charger-with-fan/rc-car-products/379060 0002604a.jpg

Cheers I will be buying this the end of the month as I have just bought the car, bought a 3500mah nimh battery, sway bars and going to be purchasing the brushless motor and fitting that first.

I just hope that I can use nimh with the brushless motor. :-)

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It's not whether the motor takes NiMH, it's whether or not the ESC does. A motor will run given power, regardless of what type of power source.

This is what i am currently looking at from eBay 141330059208 this does say it will work with nimh but will that work in the ftx carnage. I am pretty sure it will but if someone could confirm this before I go ahead and purchase this item it would be appreciated.

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That ESC runs NiMH. :)

yep :-) just got to find out if it will work with the ftx carnage. I have also bought a 4000mah nimh battery and got a 3500mah battery and the standard 1800 so hopefully if all goes well I will get this motor and then next month change battery to lipo

just want someone to x on firm this would work I don't want to buy this motor for it to damage other parts of the car.

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I assure you, those little, finned cans whilst pokey, are unlikely to cause damage to your carnage. I run 9,10 & 13t versions in tamiyas, on 2 and 3s and have not suffered any undue 'box or diff wear at all.

I would suggest getting an extra pinion or two, as you may need to change your gearing when swapping to bl from brushed...

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I assure you, those little, finned cans whilst pokey, are unlikely to cause damage to your carnage. I run 9,10 & 13t versions in tamiyas, on 2 and 3s and have not suffered any undue 'box or diff wear at all.I would suggest getting an extra pinion or two, as you may need to change your gearing when swapping to bl from brushed...

Fantastic news :-)

When to say buy a couple more pinions are they just the standard ones or are they a upgraded part? Thanks for your help :-)

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It's just the updated version at a higher wattage both charge and discharge and it's touch screen so it's just better ;-)

Cheers. Aslong as it charges nimh and lipo and has peak detection so if I do leave my battery's on charge a bit longer than needed it won't damage the battery. :-)

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electronics have moved on these days. 

 

 

inside your lipo/nihm/cad/acid charger, yes hobby chargers now do all battery types.

before we would have a handful / bag of chargers for specific things, one for the handset

one for the receiver pack, one for the main battery, another to charge you AA batterys etc etc. 

 

arduino and the likes being micro controllers could do all the work of these chargers in one device.

the brain does the maths, and checks the batterys voltage and resistance.

this is used with some computer coding and a current sensor / voltage sensor, to make the best charging

voltage and current for a given input voltage.

 

they are clever but still need the user to tell it, the battery is a 2s lipo or a 3s lipo, or its a nihm battery or your

charging a lead acid battery. 

 

these days chargers come with safety features like AUTOSHUTDOWN , instead of keep feeding in current

and overcharging, the charger stops the current but watches the battery. when it sees the voltage drop down

it flicks on and tops back up

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Is there a reason why this is better? :-) just trying to find as much info as possible

 

Personally I'd stick with the non touch screen.  I haven't used it but the rc6 touch looks like a resistive screen rather than a capacitive one (like a modern smartphone).  If it is resisitive it'll mark, frustrate you amd won't last as long as old fashioned buttons :)  Of course YMMV, you pays your money and takes your choice.  

 

I nearly went with the touch as it came with an XT60 lead - but there only a few quid to buy and I really didn't like the touch screen.

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Personally I'd stick with the non touch screen.  I haven't used it but the rc6 touch looks like a resistive screen rather than a capacitive one (like a modern smartphone).  If it is resisitive it'll mark, frustrate you amd won't last as long as old fashioned buttons :)  Of course YMMV, you pays your money and takes your choice.   I nearly went with the touch as it came with an XT60 lead - but there only a few quid to buy and I really didn't like the touch screen.

Ahhhhhh I see so Iver time the touch screen will look tatty. I am old fashioned and do feel like having touch screen is something else to go wrong electronically. I think I'll stick to the overlander rc6 ;-)

What does YMMV stand for? *noob* lol

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Personally I'd stick with the non touch screen.  I haven't used it but the rc6 touch looks like a resistive screen rather than a capacitive one (like a modern smartphone).  If it is resisitive it'll mark, frustrate you amd won't last as long as old fashioned buttons :)  Of course YMMV, you pays your money and takes your choice.  

 

I nearly went with the touch as it came with an XT60 lead - but there only a few quid to buy and I really didn't like the touch screen.

Same reason I went with the non-touchscreen version too.

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