tom's rc Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 (edited) hey guys, firestorm arrived yesterday and took her out today. she started pretty much fine and ran very well for 20 seconds but then my drive shaft dropped out. seems that one of the drive shafts is 10mm shorter than the other?!!? i put the driveshaft back in, and then tried do start it again but i kept flooding the engine until my glow igniter died (My fuel tubing was coloured so i couldn't see the fuel going into the carb. some clear tubing will sort that out.) So yeah. apart from the short drive shaft and the fluorescent yellow fuel tubing, everything is great. im going to charge 2 glow igniters, get some clear tubing and mod the drive shaft for now so i can take it out for a beating tomorrow pics to follow Edited April 10, 2014 by tom's rc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rctech132 Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 it all depends on what the previous owner has been doing with it. If he has broken it in properly it may need a bit of a retune otherwise not much work needed. If the previous owner of course hasn't looked after the engine it can be a nightmare to get running and tune it at all. You can strip the engine down and clean it which would also reveal anything thats wrong with it. Also as said already if the previous owner has already done a break in witht he engine another one wont be needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.K Posted April 5, 2014 Share Posted April 5, 2014 I'd replace the glow plug and re-oil the filter. It's nice and cheap to do for peace of mind! Did you buy it off someone you know? If not, nitros can be a bit of a minefield. Does it have the original .18 engine? Mine runs well on 20% Byrons, it's worth resetting the needles to factory (all flush) and retuning to your chosen fuel as it may well differ to that used by the previous owner. The Firestorm is a solid truck, the only weak point I've found is the throttle arm on the rotary carb. This can wear and snap, leading to a possible runaway if your brakes aren't up to scratch! It's a worth having a check, otherwise fire away and enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 5, 2014 Author Share Posted April 5, 2014 yeah, i went to my model shop today and bought some 25% fuel and a glow plug. i have also ordered some air filter oil, after run oil and glow starters. yes, the engine is the original g3.0. i will give it a new tune to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 redone the first post to save making a new thread so check it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1980 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 What model shop do you use Tom? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 penn model in kingswinford. i dont use it that often though as i usualy buy online. only things like fuel i buy from there. where about do you bash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1980 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Yeah I know Penn havent been there for ages though. Always found them a bit snooty to be honest. I bash anywhere really, most of the time in the park outside my house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 what parks that? i live in smethwick too and use warley woods... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1980 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Do you know stony lane park? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Only chassis upgrade I did on mine was to add T-Bone bumper to the front. I converted mine to brushless though Both driveshafts should be the same length..... but they are cheap enough as I found out the last time I ran it. One of the rear turnbuckles pulled out in a high speed roll, and it spat a driveshaft. Got a pair of shafts for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 Do you know stony lane park? i think i do, thats the one with the pond and a school at the back right? round the corner from manor road? Only chassis upgrade I did on mine was to add T-Bone bumper to the front. I converted mine to brushless though Both driveshafts should be the same length..... but they are cheap enough as I found out the last time I ran it. One of the rear turnbuckles pulled out in a high speed roll, and it spat a driveshaft. Got a pair of shafts for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1980 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Thats the one mate. Me and my mate often thrash the cars round there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 i would never have thought to go there but i suppose it has a big field area. get yourself down to warley woods, best place in the west mids for rc! (well best in sandwell) anyone know if the e-firestorm wheelie bar fits the nitro firestorm? cant seem to find any firestorm 10t ones, they are all for the E-Firestorm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike1980 Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 I might just do that Tom. Let me know next time you are going up there and ill drag my mate along with his Mystery Machine Lunchbox. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 how easy was it to convert to brushless? Actually very easy. I had to make make my own engine mount out of alloy plate, Then I just fixed the battery tray on the upper deck along with the ESC. I didn't want the plastic chassis and rear motor of the Flux....and hte nitro chassis gave me an alloy chassis and mid motor. Much better Don;t think the Flux wheelie bar will go on. The RX battery box on the back will get in the way. You can get a rear T-Bone with built in wheelie bar: http://t-bone-racing.net/Brand-A-M/HPI/Firestorm/F317-TBR-NM-rear-B205-T-Bar-set-26045-HPI-Firestorm-p707.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 do you know if this will fit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/371038218942?hlpht=true&ops=true&viphx=1&lpid=95&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=95 as it goes onto the bottom of the chassis... btw, do you have any pics of your converted firestorm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 10, 2014 Share Posted April 10, 2014 Here's the build thread Lots of piccies! http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/176001-project-fireball-er-firestorm/?hl=%20project%20%20firestorm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 10, 2014 Author Share Posted April 10, 2014 cool, il take a looksie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 replaced the fuel tubing and moded the drive shafts today then took her for a proper run. she is awesome!!! never going back to electric xD only thing Is, I tried to tune her but didn't really know what I was doing haha. the engine kept cutting out every time a used the brakes? what do I do to stop that?? I don't think il need a wheelie bar either as it rarely wheelied as it doesn't have the acceleration of an electric, but definitely has loads of top end! will it need another tune when a different number glow plug is used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesBryan Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 replaced the fuel tubing and moded the drive shafts today then took her for a proper run. she is awesome!!! never going back to electric xD only thing Is, I tried to tune her but didn't really know what I was doing haha. the engine kept cutting out every time a used the brakes? what do I do to stop that?? I don't think il need a wheelie bar either as it rarely wheelied as it doesn't have the acceleration of an electric, but definitely has loads of top end! will it need another tune when a different number glow plug is used? If it died when brakes were applied, then you need to turn the idle screw clockwise 1/8th of a turn until it no longer cuts out when braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 11, 2014 Author Share Posted April 11, 2014 it already moves when idling, moving it clockwise any more will make it zoom off!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 What is happening is the idle position is not being held by the idle screw...but rather by the servo. Have you, by any chance, been using hte throttle trim to adjust the idle? Here's what you need to do to check all is right. 1) Remove the air filter. 2) Switch on the Tx and RX, and set any throttle trim to zero. 3) Have a look at gap between the throttle and body. You want a gap of around 1mm at the widest point. 4) slacken off the throttle linkage so there is a bit of slack...there should always be a tiny bit of slack. Then use the idle screw to adjust the gap to the correct width. You still. 5) Hit the brake, and make sure the throttle gap does not close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom's rc Posted April 14, 2014 Author Share Posted April 14, 2014 after having some trouble starting it, and then me thinking it got stuck at tdc i took the backplate off. unfortunatly, this resulted in me finding out the con rod is mashed! the main body of it is ok but the very bottom has come off resulting in it being left behind when the crank shaft goes down. what should i do? is it worth replacing or should i just get a new engine. and would it be possible that this damage has also affected the piston or sleeve? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitroholic Posted April 14, 2014 Share Posted April 14, 2014 Only way to tell is to strip it down and look at the piston/sleeve. If there is no sign of scoring or damage, then it could well be you just need a new rod. It depends how good the compression was before hand. If the motor was fairly well used before the crank snapped....it's really not worth fixing. You would want the complete rebuild kit...rod, piston, liner, and that's quite pricey. You could replace the motor with something else as well. I replaced mine with a 3800KV Castle 4 pole and matching ESC, and it's great fun on 3S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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