Advice on new build clutch pls

[mchaggis]

HI just built a annsman virus 3.0 and fitted a force .28 4.6cc engine after getting it to start the clutch bell started to smoke stopped engine felt clutch bell was very hot , any ideas why this is ? ( must be binding ) but I can't see why or adjust it .. any input appreciated with thanks

Mchaggis

[mchaggis]

Anyone pls ?

[Rikardo Dust]

Did it spin freely when you built it?

[Nitroholic]

Couple of things to check...

 

1) as above....with the motor out of the car, does the clutch bell move freely.

2) Are the bearings in the bell both properly seated and free rolling

 

The heat will come from the shoes rubbing the bell, and a number of things cause this. If bell spins freely, most likely it's a failed bearing. This can cause the bell to wobble, rubbing the shoes, or else just binds making the bell spin with the crank.

 

If it doesn't, then check the springs are all in good order and properly seated. Spring failure will let the shoes flop onto the bell and drag. If it's a 3 shoe clutch and only one engages, it may not be enough to make the car move...but it will get it hot!

 

You will need to take the engine out, check the clutch assembly over, then refit it once it's spinning freely and all in good order.

It's also possible for the flat of the bell to be rubbing on the shoes. Sometimes shims need to go in to prevent this and to space the bell away from the shoes. If you had to put washers on the outside...that's a likely issue.

[Shudson]

Assuming everything is new and you have built from scratch, are you sure you have the clutch shoes the right way round? i.e trailing as the engine rotates anti-clockwise.

[mchaggis]

Thanks for your replies ,

Just removed engine and found the flywheel had come loose , so hopefully when the piston locker gets delivered

I'll remove the flywheel and replace thread lock it , as far as I know the clutch shoes fitted OK however the springs I'm not

Sure of as the long bit of spring rubs on inside of bell housing is this right ? Its something I have never had to do or change

Till now ,

Before removing engine tho I moved it away from spur gear and run a full tank through the engine 1st tank run in

And noticed that the bellhousing was still spinning,

Is there a video or pics of clutch springs being fitted in the propper way ?

Thank you all great full and appreciate your help

Cheers mchaggis

[fatboyneil]

You don't use just a piston locker to fit the flywheel you want one of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18024__Flywheel_Wrench_w_17mm_Hex.html or something similar off eBay

[1981robbo]

You don't use just a piston locker to fit the flywheel you want one of these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18024__Flywheel_Wrench_w_17mm_Hex.html or something similar off eBay

Yes you can? A lock tool and your wheel nut wrench is all you need. To say 'you don't just use' is quite inaccurate Edited September 3, 2013 by 1981robbo

[fatboyneil]

Trying to teach your gran to suck eggs ay robbo the piston tool on its own with the force of tightening the flywheel nut can cause damage that's where the flywheel wrench comes in it holds it all in place so you don't put too much pressure on the piston in fact with the wrench you don't even need the piston stopper at all

[mchaggis]

Thanks guys

I don't think the flywheel tool would work as flywheel fitted is loose and spins , was all

Fitted as per diagram now can't undo nut in front I'll try post pic

Cheers mchaggis

[mchaggis]

Here's pic

[Shudson]

If flywheel is loose but you can't loosen nut, that suggests it is at end of thread. When you re-assemble you will need a spacer behind flywheel/collet or it will happen again.

To loosen nut, you could try squeezing flywheel back against crankcase while tapping wrench (gently) anti clockwise with a small hammer or similar.

[Rikardo Dust]

sounds like you've not fitted the springs properly bud, the long part goes over the top of the shoe and the short bit, you have to push it back past the nut so it holds the shoe tight against the shaft, if you get me? this video shows it pretty good

 

[mchaggis]

Managed to take off flywheel mullgrips n 10mm ring spanner , mmm I thinks the nut that holds on the flywheel

Was'nt tightened up enough and hard to remove as had thread lock blue on , anyway took off flywheel replaced and tightened

Up refitted clutch pic below refit few days as on night shift

Thank to all

Mchaggis

[Shudson]

If you haven't got one, the tool in the video makes life a lot easier - they are only a few pounds now.

[fatboyneil]

I've never had to use threadlock on a flywheel nut think that might have given you a false sense of it being tight I use the end of a matchstick to apply threadlock that's all it ever needs one little bit no more and the clutch tool comes in handy as shudson said I'm on my fifth one now and got another three waiting they last for ages putting clutches together but after a while the bit that pulls clutch shoes off wares down but if you only have a couple of nitro cars one should last you ages

[Shudson]

As Fatboyneil says, you shouldn't need threadlock on the flywheel. Assuming you don't have a backfire in the first couple of starts, it will tend to keep tightening itself and coming loose will never be a problem.

[1981robbo]

Trying to teach your gran to suck eggs ay robbo the piston tool on its own with the force of tightening the flywheel nut can cause damage that's where the flywheel wrench comes in it holds it all in place so you don't put too much pressure on the piston in fact with the wrench you don't even need the piston stopper at all

Edited September 4, 2013 by 1981robbo

[1981robbo]

Trying to teach your gran to suck eggs ay robbo the piston tool on its own with the force of tightening the flywheel nut can cause damage that's where the flywheel wrench comes in it holds it all in place so you don't put too much pressure on the piston in fact with the wrench you don't even need the piston stopper at all

No? Just stating a fact. You missed out the word 'need' in your post. You don't NEED to use that tool. You implied that his method was completely wrong, which it is NOT. And seriously that terminology sounds REALLY homosexual.

[mchaggis]

Update

Bought a clutch tool , fitted clutch no probe with tool works a treat

Cheeers all for ya advice

Mchaggis

[Rikardo Dust]

Update

Bought a clutch tool , fitted clutch no probe with tool works a treat

Cheeers all for ya advice

Mchaggis

 

glad you got it sorted pal, those clutch tools are awesome are they not

[Anthoop]

No? Just stating a fact. You missed out the word 'need' in your post. You don't NEED to use that tool. You implied that his method was completely wrong, which it is NOT. And seriously that terminology sounds REALLY homosexual.

Preventing the crank from turning using the piston is generally a bad idea if you are using any kind of force (as in tightening the flywheel)....many other options to lock the crank...safest will always be a lolly pop stick in the crank window for me...

If you are really homophobic I could say many things....

[jordan_bench10]

me i never use any special tools an 8mm rachet does me and a bit of talcum powder on the fingers to grip flywheel