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Whats the best out of these 2 setups?


gibbie2210

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I have a dilema ....... can anyone tell me what the best is out of these two setups and why? please ......

Both of these systems are for a 1/8th scale SC .....

HPI Flux Alphastar 2350KV Brushless Motor with HPI Flux Q-Base Brushless ESC

 

versus

 

HPI Flux Scream 1/8th Scale Brushless Motor (1965kV) with HPI Flux Rage 1/8th Scale Sensorless Brushless ESC

 

I would be grateful for your thoughts and reasoning behind them.

 

thanks in advance

 

Graham

 

 

 

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I have a dilema ....... can anyone tell me what the best is out of these two setups and why? please ......

Both of these systems are for a 1/8th scale SC .....

HPI Flux Alphastar 2350KV Brushless Motor with HPI Flux Q-Base Brushless ESC

 

versus

 

HPI Flux Scream 1/8th Scale Brushless Motor (1965kV) with HPI Flux Rage 1/8th Scale Sensorless Brushless ESC

 

I would be grateful for your thoughts and reasoning behind them.

 

thanks in advance

 

Graham

Sorry mate, but neither of them are any good,...... :whistling:

 

What you need is NITRO POWER........ :yes:  :yes:  :yes:

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What voltage do you plan on running?

The 2350 will be faster, but I believe it's limited on voltage.

The 1965 will be more torquey, should also be 6s compatible, but I haven't checked that.

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2350kv best for 4s applications

 

1965 best for 6s applications, though the 80A ESC you mention might be a bit tight if you are putting it into a heavy 1:8 monster truck.

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2350kv best for 4s applications

 

1965 best for 6s applications, though the 80A ESC you mention might be a bit tight if you are putting it into a heavy 1:8 monster truck.

According to the spec sheets they are only 2 x 2s compatible .... max voltage for each 14.8

The reason I am asking is I have an Apache SC and blew the ESC ..... so I was going to change the lot out for something more robust.

I think I would rather go for the 1965 as its going to need more in the torque side of things as opposed to speed.

 

thanks for the comments guys ........ btw tried nitro, its not for me, but its a great sport to watch.... 

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Mate I think blown ESCs are kind of one of those things that happen. I'm not sure the battery holder in the SC will take 6S, and if there is nothing wrong with the 2350, why not stick with it and just change the ESC? After all, the 2350 4S setup was also used in the Savage Flux.

 

Also how old is your Apache? It might be worth talking to HPI UK to see if you can get a swap on the ESC, especially if you were not doing anything to strain it when it fails. You've nothing to lose by asking.

 

If you really want to swap out all the electrics, I would recommend a Leopard 4074 2000kV, or if you can find one, a Leopard 4274 2000kv (same motor but with integrated alu heatsink). Right balance of torque and revs, and equally happy with a 4S, 5S or 6S application. They are about 50 quid on the bay. I would pair it with the HW EZRUN WP SC8 120A ESC for short course trucks. These are waterproof, and also go for about 50 quid on the bay.

 

HTH

 

N

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Mate I think blown ESCs are kind of one of those things that happen. I'm not sure the battery holder in the SC will take 6S, and if there is nothing wrong with the 2350, why not stick with it and just change the ESC? After all, the 2350 4S setup was also used in the Savage Flux.

 

Also how old is your Apache? It might be worth talking to HPI UK to see if you can get a swap on the ESC, especially if you were not doing anything to strain it when it fails. You've nothing to lose by asking.

 

If you really want to swap out all the electrics, I would recommend a Leopard 4074 2000kV, or if you can find one, a Leopard 4274 2000kv (same motor but with integrated alu heatsink). Right balance of torque and revs, and equally happy with a 4S, 5S or 6S application. They are about 50 quid on the bay. I would pair it with the HW EZRUN WP SC8 120A ESC for short course trucks. These are waterproof, and also go for about 50 quid on the bay.

 

HTH

 

N

Its only about 3 months old, and I sent off the ESC to them today, in hindsight I should have sent off the motor as well.

I dropped my transmitter about 5 minutes before I started running, dont know if that has any degree of effect, but when it stopped running, there was no smoke not a lot of heat either .... steering still worked so the binding was ok, am just wondering if the esc went into failsafe and never came back on again ...... anyhoo, will wait and see what hpi have to say about it.

Think I will pass on the upgrades, and stick with what I have, unless HPI turn round and say its my fault .. :(

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Don't think dropping the tranny would have caused this. Sounds like your capacitors packed up in the ESC. Given the age of the vehicle, I am sure HPI will get you up and running soon.

 

I reckon one of the reasons HPI switched to cheaper OEM electrics for their 'flux' branding was to reduce costs on RTR units, and on the costs of warrantying these parts. Sending stuff back to Castle Creations must have cost them a bit.

 

Are you using decent lipos? If your lipos are low C rating you put more load on the caps and could end up in the same position again. ESCs like high capacity packs with a high C rating, so that they can deal with large instantaneous current draws from the motor spooling up.

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Don't think dropping the tranny would have caused this. Sounds like your capacitors packed up in the ESC. Given the age of the vehicle, I am sure HPI will get you up and running soon.

 

I reckon one of the reasons HPI switched to cheaper OEM electrics for their 'flux' branding was to reduce costs on RTR units, and on the costs of warrantying these parts. Sending stuff back to Castle Creations must have cost them a bit.

 

Are you using decent lipos? If your lipos are low C rating you put more load on the caps and could end up in the same position again. ESCs like high capacity packs with a high C rating, so that they can deal with large instantaneous current draws from the motor spooling up.

Flightmax 4000mAh 7.4v 2S1P 25-30C Hard Car Lipoly ROAR APPROVED UK Stock I dont think these are too bad, dont want to go any higher in case I end up back in the same position again.

Thanks for the information mate..... any ideas on batteries would help as i am kind of new to the 1/8th scale and this dual battery setup.....

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Flightmax 4000mAh 7.4v 2S1P 25-30C Hard Car Lipoly ROAR APPROVED UK Stock I dont think these are too bad, dont want to go any higher in case I end up back in the same position again.

Thanks for the information mate..... any ideas on batteries would help as i am kind of new to the 1/8th scale and this dual battery setup.....

 

That should be fine. My rule of thumb is that the c rating x the Ah capacity of your cells should exceed the maximum current that can be delivered by the ESC. Your batteries would therefore keep up with a 120A ESC (like the Mamba Monster) so should be fine. Hope you get up and running soon.

 

N

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That's a nice combo there, and I can vouch for RCEcho. I'm not sure what the real world difference is between the leopard and the HW branded 4274.

 

Some HW motors have empty space in the inside of the can, whereas Leopards are wound properly.

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Does that setup run twin or single Lipo's ..... ?

Reason I am asking is ....... if its twin, what do I buy battery wise, and if its single ..... same question?

 

cheers in advance, really appreciate all the time you guys put into this.

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Think it comes as a twin deans connectors, but you can just run a single 4S/5S/6S pack and just bridge the other connector.  That's what I used to do with mine when I first got it, or you can just cut and solder a single connector on it if you are planning just to run a single 4s/5S/6S pack

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Think it comes as a twin deans connectors, but you can just run a single 4S/5S/6S pack and just bridge the other connector.  That's what I used to do with mine when I first got it, or you can just cut and solder a single connector on it if you are planning just to run a single 4s/5S/6S pack

Think I might be going for this setup, but just need some infor on the best batteries going dual lipo ....

http://www.rcecho.com/HOBBYWING-XERUN-4274SL-2000KV-Brushless-Motor-150A-ESC-LCD-Program-Card-ME237.html?quantity=1

I need all the help I can get guys...... Lol

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What are the best lipos to use with this setup... Taking it as a dual lip setup.... I need a lot of help with this..

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I meant as in dual lipo tray setup in the RC but anyway what you looking to run 4S ?

Either 4 s or 6s as the setup can take either...

I take 4s = 2x2s lipo's

And 6s is 2x 3s ?

I just need to know voltage and c ratings

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http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/topic/21028-lipo-the-big-guide-thread-updated-march-10/ not sure if you are read this yet but a little info on lipos, look at hobbyking for lipos.

Thanks very much, really interesting read.

I really appreciate your time mate, lost without you guys on here.

So going with the formula, I can basically go with 2 lipos as long as I don't exceed the 150a rating of the esc.

It doesn't mention anything about voltage on there so I take it its best to stick with 7.4v rather than 11.1v and keep the A rating for each battery as high a 2500a 3c

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