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Shumacher lc racing EMB-1


silone74

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finally finished it, quite pleased with how the paint came out.

really nice kit to build too.

Great service from DMS racing too


 

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Short lived, took it for its first run earlier, I ran it into my little lad’s foot as he was running and he stood on the front, I think the slipper must have been to tight, as the spur is completely stripped now☹️

32CD1F28-4F99-482F-B7DF-D64618427050.jpeg

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1 hour ago, mak01 said:

I did that with mine as it is a known mod which should have been done at the factory.

Thanks, will do it then.

any other mods/improvements you would recommend?

 

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I added some small washers to the front and rear hinge pin retaining screws to make sure  they can't pop out.

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Hi, does anyone know what these grub screws are for (circled in red), there is one on each of the suspension arms, I can’t work out what they are for, and the instructions just tell you to put them in?

D3BB3823-160B-4A9E-B940-C1FDA9423692.jpeg

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I think, although can't be sure, that they are to adjust the suspension arms and stop them hitting the hinge pins??

 

When my lad bust his suspension arm and noticed them too and just adjusted them so the pin hits the chassis and therefore doesn't put undue stress on the suspension arm.

 

I could of course be totally wrong!

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58 minutes ago, Ag100 said:

Hi, does anyone know what these grub screws are for (circled in red), there is one on each of the suspension arms, I can’t work out what they are for, and the instructions just tell you to put them in?

D3BB3823-160B-4A9E-B940-C1FDA9423692.jpeg

Droop adjustment, they should be screwed in and they set the droop of the suspension arm as said above they push on the chassis to stop the arms from travelling to far down and stop undue stress on the suspension, you can set them to lower your vehicle for different terrain and get better handling

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17 minutes ago, silone74 said:

Droop adjustment, they should be screwed in and they set the droop of the suspension arm as said above they push on the chassis to stop the arms from travelling to far down and stop undue stress on the suspension, you can set them to lower your vehicle for different terrain and get better handling

That’s great thank you.

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54 minutes ago, Coops said:

I think, although can't be sure, that they are to adjust the suspension arms and stop them hitting the hinge pins??

 

When my lad bust his suspension arm and noticed them too and just adjusted them so the pin hits the chassis and therefore doesn't put undue stress on the suspension arm.

 

I could of course be totally wrong!

Thanks Coops.

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Another question, are the Diffs meant to be filled up completely with Diff oil?,  it doesn’t say in the instructions, I put quite a bit in but not filled up.

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13 hours ago, Alex97 said:

I think I did mine about so they were about 2mm below of the head of the 4 smaller gears, you want them full however not over flowing. 

Thanks, rebuilt them last night.

 

 

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Fill the diffs right up - let the air settle out of them. If you put the main diff gear on top of the diff housing slowly you can just let any excess bleed out through the screw holes.

 

In terms of how tight to have your slipper, I always start where I hold the front wheels of my car with my elbows, and with my hands I try and rotate the rear wheels both towards the same direction.

You can adjust your slipper to allow slip from here. Its safer to have some slip than none, as you have found out - you'll only notice the slipper work on higher grip surfaces anyway.

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57 minutes ago, c0sie said:

Fill the diffs right up - let the air settle out of them. If you put the main diff gear on top of the diff housing slowly you can just let any excess bleed out through the screw holes.

 

In terms of how tight to have your slipper, I always start where I hold the front wheels of my car with my elbows, and with my hands I try and rotate the rear wheels both towards the same direction.

You can adjust your slipper to allow slip from here. Its safer to have some slip than none, as you have found out - you'll only notice the slipper work on higher grip surfaces anyway.

Thanks @c0sie, did them like that last night, I think the stripped spur was down to the pinion being meshed far to tight, Darren from DMS have me a tip about using the plastic bag the the new spruce came in, feed a strip of it between spur and pinion turn tighten, this seems to have worked.

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A couple of short clips of the first run on 3s, it’s quick and wants to wheelie at the slightest bump, once I got used to it it was great fun. This is still with the 4850kv motor, I have the 6850kv, but not tried it yet.

Noticeably higher motor temp, but ran really well.  

Just need to tune the suspension now as it’s running 40wt 500 cst all round, I have some 350cst for the front and 400cst for the tears on order.

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On 05/06/2020 at 08:32, Alex97 said:

I have those Fastrax wheels/tyres now, they offer much better grip, but I prefer the look of the original wheels (solid buggy wheels), is there a combo that uses that style of wheel, but with a grippier tyre?

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You can get dished 1/10 touring/drift wheels and then add your tyre choice or Schumacher do some dished wheels too.

 

These are some on my mini 8

Screenshot_20200620-202511_Gallery.jpg

Edited by silone74
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On 20/06/2020 at 20:26, silone74 said:

You can get dished 1/10 touring/drift wheels and then add your tyre choice or Schumacher do some dished wheels too.

 

These are some on my mini 8

Screenshot_20200620-202511_Gallery.jpg

Yes, those are the sort of thing. Will have a look for some.

 

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