Feedtheinferno Posted October 28, 2013 Author Share Posted October 28, 2013 Then you beat the daylights out of it! (I hope)We definitely need videos of it being abused. I will definitely get videos of it when the weather clears up, the Baja can stand the wet, my hd camcorder may not Try the brakes with the fuel pipe mod first. I'm still running stock v1 brakes with the fuel pipe instead of the spring, and it locks the wheels on grass. Yeah I need to look in to that next Anyway back to the clutch, how loose (if at all) should if be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 It shouldn't. I've personally never noticed a clutch been loose on any engine. Although if it's only very minimal I may have simply missed it when stripping and rebuilding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted October 29, 2013 Author Share Posted October 29, 2013 It shouldn't. I've personally never noticed a clutch been loose on any engine. Although if it's only very minimal I may have simply missed it when stripping and rebuilding. Right OK I think that's the cause in that case. I will get it tightened and put some spring washers on it to keep it on. This one is definitely very loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norney hurtmore Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 it has to be able to move freely or it won't engage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted October 29, 2013 Share Posted October 29, 2013 Yes it has to spin freely but not back and forward movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted October 31, 2013 Author Share Posted October 31, 2013 Tightened up the clutch and put a new standard spur on it for now until that goes and I will start using my hostiles. I decided to start putting my km shock braces on and to sell the tr one on the front. Got the rear on fine however when trying to fit the front something funny come to light. It turns out the whole front brace (on the tr top) all the plastic bits, had snapped. I think I have spares somewhere but yeah everything on the front of the car has died I am getting it back together for a second run soon so I can carry on ironing out the creases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark7616 Posted October 31, 2013 Share Posted October 31, 2013 have you got the pinion to go with the hostile spur as the pitch is different, if you have ignore me but I didnt read back to see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 have you got the pinion to go with the hostile spur as the pitch is different, if you have ignore me but I didnt read back to see. Hidden somewhere in the black hole that is my shed yes Right sooooooo I have some spare Hostile nightmares that I put on the back to replace the ripped rears from the weekend, along with what I think are old type silverback beadlocks. So that part of the car is actually quite nice. I had a KM front brace laying around that is thicker than the standard one on there so that has gone on too. I only had one side spare of the front shock plastic so I have had to glue/plastic weld the other side together...it will do Back to the neater, I am sick of it being in parts and want to really move on with it now, however I am in two minds about the extenders (as I won't really run the baja yet) so I have decided to steal the drive axle and axles themselves from the beater as they come apart easily and put the complete rear hubs I accidental thread locked together on the beater instead. This way I can finish the rear of the car or at least get close to finishing it so the engine and front chassis can go back on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Actually something else to add. The throttle servo in the beater is winding me up. No matter how many times I centre the bloody thing it always changes it position when the car is turned on. Could be dying so may be time for a change soon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Chances are you'll never get a servo dead centre, especially on a pretty complex set-up like the Baja, it's not easy access. Your best bet is simply get it as close as you can and then use trim to make it dead on. On the extenders thing, use them on the rear but never the front, it makes the turning circle wider than the moon (honestly, I went up and measured) so yeah extenders are good on the rear but not the front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 1, 2013 Author Share Posted November 1, 2013 Chances are you'll never get a servo dead centre, especially on a pretty complex set-up like the Baja, it's not easy access. Your best bet is simply get it as close as you can and then use trim to make it dead on. On the extenders thing, use them on the rear but never the front, it makes the turning circle wider than the moon (honestly, I went up and measured) so yeah extenders are good on the rear but not the front. Not reading exactly what I have put there OHO. The throttle servo (extremely easy to get to) isn't just off centre it whacks itself to about 1/5th throttle every bloody time The extenders for the neater would only be on the rears as I have mecatechs on the front and wouldn't work anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted November 1, 2013 Share Posted November 1, 2013 Oops yeah I missed the word throttle, just assumed it was steering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stalker Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Actually something else to add. The throttle servo in the beater is winding me up. No matter how many times I centre the bloody thing it always changes it position when the car is turned on. Could be dying so may be time for a change soon My original steering servo started doing this. After a while it wouldn't turn right at all, even with the trim adjusted. In the end, I binned it and replaced with a Savox which so far has been great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pharrel Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 (edited) After reviewing this whole thread it seems that you bought a massive piece of junk. I don't know how much money it cost you and much you've already spent trying to fix it but you could have probably bought a brand new Baja by now or a heavily upgraded used one in fully working order. Is it working at the moment? (The first Baja at the very start of this thread) Edited November 2, 2013 by Pharrel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Anyway..... Sorted the clutch wobble, it was a mixture of a loose clutch and the clutch plate actually being ever so slightly bent:- After that was the front shock tower. Have a look how broken the plastic stuff was....silly plastic stuff. So like I said I found one complete plastic side to replace it with along super glueing the other side, it wont hold for long but its better than nothing I will get some pictures of the repair later on. I decided tonight that rather than delay getting my neater baja back together that I don't mind not having extended hubs, so seeing as my old hubs are practically welded together with locktight I thought it would be a good idea to take the ones off the beater and swap the axles around. That way both cars work perfectly. The swap to the neater went fine as you would expect, however a problem arose (as they always do) with one of the axles seems to be stuck in the plastic hub...probably to a bearing. I look the hub apart as much as I could and I still couldn't get it to budge, does anyone have any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Hold the hub on the corner of your bench or whatever and give the drive cup a whack from the c-clip end. Worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Hold the hub on the corner of your bench or whatever and give the drive cup a whack from the c-clip end. Worked for me. Nope, tried it and it just won't budge. Looks like I may have to destroy this part of the hub to get it out :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfat78 Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Have you tried heating the cup? Not the hub obviously. Then whack it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Have you tried heating the cup? Not the hub obviously. Then whack it Tried it, nothing. It's really really jammed arg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(-:AD:-) Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 the bearing is what needs to be heated. maybe with a soldering iron on the inner race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted November 2, 2013 Share Posted November 2, 2013 Will the drive cup fit through the hole in a Workmate top? If it will, shove it through and clout the other end with a sledgehammer? I'll go away now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 2, 2013 Author Share Posted November 2, 2013 Will the drive cup fit through the hole in a Workmate top? If it will, shove it through and clout the other end with a sledgehammer? I'll go away now. If I had a sledge hammer and a workmate I would have tried that by now I'll get it in a vice tomorrow and if needs be destroy it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewbacca Posted November 3, 2013 Share Posted November 3, 2013 If I had a sledge hammer and a workmate I would have tried that by now I'll get it in a vice tomorrow and if needs be destroy it I was only half serious lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Right well I have given up temporarily on getting that shaft out of the bearings of the plastic hub so I decided to get the beater back together (just together not finished yet) I have decided that once the neater comes together I will be treating it a full set of new wheels/tyres, because of this I nicked the worn rear hostile MX nightmares to replace the ripped rear tyres currently on the beater. The rip wasn't terrible, the tyres would stay on the wheels but they definitely need replacing so..... From this:- To this :- Oh and you may notice that I have stolen the beadlocks off the neaters wheels too, again that's because it will be having a set of silverbacks when the time comes so for now these old'ns work perfectly for the beater. I said I would get a picture of my repair to the front brace and to be honest there isn't much to see, I also had a spare KM from brace laying around so I used that to replace the standard one on there as its at the very least, thicker. And just for the sake of "here is how its currently looks" here are some new photo's of it. Also for reference, so far I have fitted a KM rear suspension brace, a 668 carb, a clone dom, a shreadstack and a KM front chassis brace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted November 4, 2013 Author Share Posted November 4, 2013 Which brings me onto my three continued "to be fixed" issues for this week. 1) I can replicate the issue on the servo now so I know its dying, when in neutral if you give it full brakes, when it centres again it actually doesn't centre it pops back to around 1/4 of the way to full throttle, no matter what you change on the TX or no matter where you put the servo horn, it just goes back to that throttle open position 2) When trying to get the car to idle (with the servo disengaged as that would throttle it) the tune isn't playing ball so I need to set it back to factory and go from there as I managed to idle it last night but upon moving the throttle to the brake position, the car stutters and stalls. 3) The clutch bell, pinion, spur are still not sitting right so I am going to take that all apart either today or tomorrow and start again as it just doesn't seem right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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