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Traxxas CVD driveshafts (erevo/emaxx)


cameroooonk

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hi guys, i just replaced my drive train with the new CVD's. but they are breaking MUCH more than the stock plastic ones! the weak point seems to be the pin the the universal joint, does this mean i need to replace the whole shaft or can the pins be removed an replaced? thanks :thumbsup:

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thanks for the advice... tell me about breaking!!!! the are ridoculasly weak!!!! haven't had two days running an TWO ARE BROKEN :crying: !

Traxxas = weak plastic, weak metal; it's well recorded but you wont see complaints on the traxxas forum as they get deleted...

You can however remove the broken pins ( punch them out, or buy a chain link tool for a bike ), and replace them with hardened steel dowel pins.

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As above, some people use drill bit shafts for up grading pins.

I'm guessing you're on 6s? I usually run 4 or 5s and have never broken one. Try not to land under power, this'll take the strain off of the drivetrain when landing.

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I had problems finding CVD's long enough for my Mental Maxx.

Admiral mentioned it previously that the outdrive cups on the UE diffs are short, which is probably why.

Unfortunately Integy ones fitted, but lasted one run and the Chinesium gave up - cr3p, but we know that.

Next I went to the Traxxas shiny CVD's off the Revo and after perhaps 50-60 runs on 6S I've had NO PROBLEMS.

SO FAR I totally disagree with the comments against Traxxas.

We all have our experiences and I understand.

Long may this one of mine continue.

Al.

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Next I went to the Traxxas shiny CVD's off the Revo and after perhaps 50-60 runs on 6S I've had NO PROBLEMS.

SO FAR I totally disagree with the comments against Traxxas.

We all have our experiences and I understand.

Long may this one of mine continue.

Al.

Indeed, consider yourself lucky I guess. I've seen far too many snapped drive shafts, bulks, towers, chassis braces & chassis, not to mention bent or snapped rod ends & hinge pins + stripped diffs- it depends how rough you are sometimes, but if traxxas was such high quality you wouldn't see half the after market support in terms of upgraded parts... :whistling:

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You're not saying they make them out of chastic and chinesium just so that you NEED to get hop ups are you ..... !!!!

My E-Maxx is great.

It has .... erm .... the 2-speed servo and the wire tidy clips from the original .... that's it.

My MERV is fine.

It still has some original parts .... somewhere!!

The Revo CVD's I have on the E-Maxx are the 'option' shiny CVD's, so that could also bolster your 'theory'.

They really are still fairly solid after quite a few 6S, full bore discharges. (Fingers crossed).

I do slam J-turns, but I don't do silly jumps.

Al.

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It's the jumps that'll kill CVDs, landing under power will twist or snap them.

I've had a lot of success with RCbest CVDs, but found the older 14.4 volt version far tougher than the later 16.8.

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