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Everything WR8


Dexter_ST

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Re those of you who've fitted a Savox 1258TG steering servo, I take it it was a straight fit and not issues with it fouling the drive shaft or customising the OE mount?

The combination of sticky tyres and a stiffer front diff means slooooooooow steering with OE servo!

Ideally however, I'd like any upgrade to also be waterproof, something the 1258 isn't. Savox do some nice wp servos though they are a tad larger than the 1258!?

Thoughts welcome. ;)

Edited by J.A.Son
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HS, thanks for confirming straight fit for the 1258. Lol, I'd hate to have to plasti-dip it and spoil its beauty!

Looked at this, bit more expensive, but no need to buy plasti-dip ~

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Actually, this is probably the best in terms of speed v torque:

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/savox-monster-torque-high-voltage-titanium-gear-standard-digital-servo/rc-car-products/378699

Similar spec to the 1258 but waterproof too! Hmmm, might be logging into eBay later. :D

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Lol, I'd hate to have to plasti-dip it and spoil its beauty! (

The spray on plasti-dip is much cleaner, it applies like a spray paint. I have treated a bunch of my Rx boards (not needed for the WR8) and other gear. It works great and looks good (perfectly even coat). Also, it is 100% removeable from any hard surface.

The Savox 1258TG is the "go to" servo for this car, lots of people running it and loving it, so IMO you should stick with it as your upgrade choice.

The grease around the output is important. Dab another blob (inside the case) around the Rx wire hole. The 1258 already has rubber gaskets (o-rings) around the screws, just apply a touch of grease underneath them to be safe and screw them in. Once it's back together, tape the two seams carefully (if you don't want to use plasti-dip/ spray). I would still recommend some plasti-dip/ spray around the wire exit on the outside.

Should be ok for rain/ splashing/ snow melt, works for me, ran it all last winter and last years wet spring.

Some people basically smother the internal electronics with grease and don't treat the exterior. NeverWet is another option I have seen used to coat the electronics. I have not tried it.

Of course, as with any mod, do it at your own risk. If you are worried about your warranty, buy a used servo or use one that's warranty is over. This is a pretty common mod and I have not heard/ read much about problems.

Edited by Hotshot888
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Talk about school boy error!?

Turns out servo wasn't as bad as I though with 10k in front diff- I'd over tightened the top steering plate screws, which were binding! :P

Was only removing OE servo to check measurements that I noticed it! A case of assuming 1+2=15, lol :D

Still going to drop one of those Savor 1273's in, when I can afford it! ;)

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The 1258TG is all good.

Get yourself a beefy metal servo arm (25 tooth) off ebay (about $4).

HS, do you not run the OE servo saver if you're running an alloy servo arm?

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Anyone know what offset the stock wheels are?

That's a good question. I think they are either negative 2mm or zero. Reason being is because they rub the steering arms when you run them on a super nitro and you need to use the 2-3mm spacers to get them to clear.

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That's a good question. I think they are either negative 2mm or zero. Reason being is because they rub the steering arms when you run them on a super nitro and you need to use the 2-3mm spacers to get them to clear.

Just wondering as I'm thinking about getting some Speedline 2.2 drift wheels but I don't know what offset to get.

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They usual have quite a bit of play in them, even out of the box.

If you think it is excessive id start with changing the bearings. You will need to disassemble the diffs to change them out so be prepared.

You will be able to inspect the diff gears while you have it open but I doubt you will find anything out of the ordinary.

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Just wondering as I'm thinking about getting some Speedline 2.2 drift wheels but I don't know what offset to get.

What are the options? The speedlines are only 28mm wide so you probably want to get the fattest offset they have.

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They usual have quite a bit of play in them, even out of the box.

If you think it is excessive id start with changing the bearings. You will need to disassemble the diffs to change them out so be prepared.

You will be able to inspect the diff gears while you have it open but I doubt you will find anything out of the ordinary.

Definitely something wrong.... They really are hanging on for dear life. Front is loads worse than the rear which was apart yesterday and very little seemed to be wrong, hence the question about it. I'll strip the front later and inspect it all. Shame I haven't got diff grease yet, but good job I've got money and loads of stuff turning up this week. She won't know I've spent even more! ;)

There's a breaker on eBay that's selling complete diff's for

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Jim, as Mike says its more than likely the bearings, as they're a known weakness and what from you're saying I'd put money on it too. Get a rubber sealed kit for the whole car from RC Bearings for about

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Hmmm, re offsets- from those dimensions the WR8 wheels are +5mm offset? Unusual as RC wheels are normally neg or zero offset! So 35/2= 17.5mm less 5mm= 12.5mm.

The speedline 2.2's at 28mm width: 28/2= 14mm + offset.

So, the WR8 wheels 'stick out' 12.5mm (with a 5mm pos offset) from hex mounting face to outer rim.

The narrower speedline wheels with their assumed std neg offset would be 14mm +offset choice, from hex face to outer rim- ie wider stance- albeit a narrower wheel!

Don't quote me, but the smaller of the speedline offsets should be closest- if I've got my head around this correctly, lol!?

Edited by J.A.Son
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