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Everything WR8


Dexter_ST

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Troy, I wondering if this is rear specific, as I only run them up front?

If you've not done so already, trying them in the front may shed some light...

Still doesn't explain why your wheels don't go over the shaft, regardless of the length, as mine do!

Measure them up too, I'll try and do the same over w/e..;)

Edited by J.A.Son
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My wr8's screws are like new! Haha I just put a teeny tiny dab of corrosion x on them, as some of the had some rust on them and it brings them back to life! Smells awful tho!

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Troy, I wondering if this is rear specific, as I only run them up front?

If you've not done so already, trying them in the front may shed some light...

Still doesn't explain why your wheels don't go over the shaft, regardless of the length, as mine do!

Measure them up too, I'll try and do the same over w/e.. ;)

It's the same front or rear - they are ok as from hub to where the hex pins mount but then the shaft is longer before it thins down for the thread. The wheels go over the thread but won't seat onto the hex drives as the shaft is wider there.

 

Comparing them with photo of the equivalent Integy parts the difference can be seen there too, those look similar to the standard parts in comparison.

 

Bolted the front diff up tonight and mounted back on the chassis only to spin an allen key in one of the countersunk screws, so will have to sort that over the weekend now.

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Morning guys,

I've started the long overdue rebuild on the WR8 and so far its going well.

With the front and rear diff, do people grease the outside gear. Would a car silicon grease do? To fill the diffs, do people crack open the case and fill? Seems a dumb question I know but one of my brand new diffs has one sized screw and I can't get in to see if its filled! What do people use on the front/rear?

Also, can you remind me what you guys run in front and rear shocks?

I'm hoping to finish the rebuild tonight, so I'll get some pics up soon.

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just looks the part dude but I have kept to the plastic front wheel mounts and yh the micro rs4 is a gd little indoor car, keeps my little girl happy running round after it

Ordered one. Got the Nissan drift one with the Ken Block Shell and wheels as extras for £80. Bargain (I hope!). Got to get my evening fix now the dark nights are coming in.

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just looks the part dude but I have kept to the plastic front wheel mounts and yh the micro rs4 is a gd little indoor car, keeps my little girl happy running round after it

you got that right! 

Can I ask a quick question with the front and rear integy gear boxes. Do they come fully assembled or do you have to put the gears and grease in yourself?

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tips for removing stripped motor mount screw...

 

other than drilling out, unfortunately no! I had the same and ended up wreaking the mount! Luckily I had a spare to hand- cost a few quid off eBay. At the very least remove the whole mount and motor from chassis first and be careful not to get drill swarf inside motor

On rebuild be sparing with threadlock ;)

Edited by J.A.Son
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I quite like the layout to be fair! But there is some things I cannot find. Just getting used to it. 

Too bad I won't be able to get out with the wr8 until Saturday as college and work take up quite a bit of time! Hard times :D

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Morning guys,

I've started the long overdue rebuild on the WR8 and so far its going well.

With the front and rear diff, do people grease the outside gear. Would a car silicon grease do? To fill the diffs, do people crack open the case and fill? Seems a dumb question I know but one of my brand new diffs has one sized screw and I can't get in to see if its filled! What do people use on the front/rear?

Also, can you remind me what you guys run in front and rear shocks?

I'm hoping to finish the rebuild tonight, so I'll get some pics up soon.

I think general grease is ok for the outside diff, I've got some 3-in-One graphite grease I'm using now for things like that. You do need to pop the diff open to clean out the old grease/oil before refilling it, if it's brand new then it will have some grease in it. Problem I've found with the screws is that the allen key needed isn't metric - looks like 1.5mm but once you try one of those it soon slips and rounds off the recess. Those size screws are actually 1/16" imperial (1.59mm) - I got an allen key set from B&Q which happened to include that size after the same had happened to me. With the right allen key you might get it, or if you have a very small selection of Torx bits one of those might get the screw out. Would need to be smaller than T8 though (T8 fits the M3 dome head hex screws)

 

I've filled my diffs 10K Front, 100K centre, 7K rear which seemed to be the recommended set-up on here. For shocks I've got 900 cst (approx 70wt) but the damping feels a bit too stiff so may go a bit softer.

 

Have taken some measurements now of the GPM cvd's I was sent compared the HPI axle shafts. Not had any response back from Asiatees since they said they'd look into it :(

HPI%20vs%20GPM.jpg

 

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For anyone planning on rebuilding their diffs I'd seriously consider replacing the oe (notorious for stripping :() diff case screws with these:

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm?itemId=111005608483&varId=410158081794

M2.5x10mm

No more tears :) 

Edited by J.A.Son
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Thanks for the link! I had a problem with rounding out a screw while removing the motor! Are these a lot better than the stocks motor mount screws then? 

Also! I was curious of how people transport their wr8's etc.. 

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Not necessarily stronger, but with a pozi drive head they're less likely to strip out than the 1.5mm hex, which being extremely shallow often happens!

The larger (eg motor mount) screws often strip when there's been too much thread lock used, especially with aluminium components it seems! Using an electric drill driver  doesn't help either.. :o

Lol, I just sling mine in the boot!

Edited by J.A.Son
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Not necessarily stronger, but with a pozi drive head they're less likely to strip out than the 1.5mm hex, which being extremely shallow often happens!

They're not 1.5mm hex which is one of the reasons why they get rounded off easily - I made the mistake myself trying a 1.5mm allen key on them then bought a mixed metric/imperial set to try and get the rounded off screw out. Best fit is a 1/16" allen key, this is slightly bigger than 1.5mm which explains why they tend to round off too easily if you use one.

I picked up one of these for carrying my WR8 about, was a struggle finding something large enough - £20 or so from B&Q.

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