granty Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 I've just fitted the aluminium front knuckles (finally after owning them for ages. I wasn't replacing them until I broke the plastic ones). Went to an old quarry. Big rocks and 2s was fine even if a little rough. On 3s broke within a minute. I need a monster truck. Anyway. I bent one of the o rings between the bearings and couldn't straighten it out. It just crumbled. Am I ok to run it until some more turn up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 (edited) Do you mean the small black spacer that the stub axle goes through- between hub bearings? If so, should be ok for now. The only reason it's there from what I can see is to help support/space the inner race of the bearings? How did it get damaged? Dbl check the bearings haven't suffered similarly? Edited July 9, 2015 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Thanks. Yeah that's what I mean. I was struggling to get the bearing out. Used a screwdriver to prise them out but must have caught the spacer in the process and bent it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 Yes, centre would/could be useful under the right conditions. Wouldn't a WR8 spur should bolt straight on? On the subject of diffs, I've noticed, even after rebuilding my rear different with new shims/shafts & washers that the outdrives seem to wiggle more than than the new (breaker) complete diff I have on the shelf? Upon checking the front (in place) that seems even worse!? The only thing I can think of is the o rings are getting slack, as that's all that they run through. I just looked at the pdf and yes it looks like the stock WR8 out drive cups/spur gear and the bevel gear will bolt right up. That is some cool stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 (edited) Sounds like an easy 4x4 option for "deepish" snow! Maybe some wheelies! Edited July 9, 2015 by Hotshot888 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgozzz Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I actually think it would've been awesome for my on road WR8 project. ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 I need a new pinion after mine gave up the ghost today. Typical when I found a new perfect spot for some bashing. Do I just go with another standard 15t hpi part or does anyone else have any suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 (edited) Promo code 10% off GPM at Asiatees: GPM10 If you have problem, try adding GPM10 XOXO ---------------- Granty, if you're happy with top end speed then I'd stick with oe 15t pinion. I can't see a need to go lower (unless you're seeing high motor temps) as the WR8 has tons of low end grunt on a 15t! I've toyed with buying a larger 17/19t in the past, but it would have been purely to see what top end v-max I could achieve. Iirc, I hit ~50mph on stock 15t. It was a quick fad I soon gave up on, lol. Bought a few 15's instead. Edited July 13, 2015 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 For 3s 16-17 is nice too!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Any of the gpm parts recommended? Over cvds and knuckles? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted July 14, 2015 Share Posted July 14, 2015 I have the GPM alloy steering rack. Good fit, more rigid than stock for sure, a bit less play. Probably not a high priority upgrade, but I'm pleased with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kondre2000 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Had a great time at the New England Forest Rally over the weekend. we brought our WR8's along. My son got his older Ken Block body signed by Ken and I got mine signed by Brendan Reeves. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 Excellent, the R2 fiesta is great! Did you do that she'll yourself? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kondre2000 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) I did the R2 shell myself, yes. took the Abu Dhabi shell, removed the sitckers, and then got to work on my own. the blue tears is paint as the contours of the shell don't allow the stickers to hold well (even factory) but all the other items on the car are my own stickers. I want to do the R5 that was at the race, but I don't have a real good set of images to use to create the decals from, Brendan Reeves motorsports provided a great 4 sided image of what the car will look like about the end of June, and when I saw it, I said, "hey, that doesn't look too difficult to copy" Edited July 22, 2015 by kondre2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 A+! Nice job with the body. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hotshot888 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 I don't think it would be wise to use that signed body anymore. Might fetch a nice price someday... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kondre2000 Posted July 22, 2015 Share Posted July 22, 2015 (edited) Nick didn't use that body much even before it was signed. it is used and has wear, but hasn't been used in over a year. it will just sit now too. the R2, I, want to use it as its so cool looking, but might not. I still have the decal sheet designs so I can print off more anytime. I want to do the R5 that was at the race, (the blue one right behind Brendan and me standing with his car) I can use the pre-painted blue body that I run now, since the stickers don't seem to want to stay on that one either. those factory stickers arnt all that high quality IMHO. Edited July 22, 2015 by kondre2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I've ordered myself a monster truck for a bit of fun. I've not had much luck with the WR8 lately, seem to break something everytime I'm out. Was thinking of ordering a load of parts from Dollarhobbyz including new chassis (to freshen it up). I'm torn on the diffs, there's nothing wrong with mine but would it be nice to get some new ones and have spares? I don't know. I'm pretty much going for a full rebuild. Has anyone ordered a lot from Dollarhobbyz and been stung with import tax? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Everything I've ordered from them has been spot on, reasonably speedy delivery and not duty etc. I think of all the stuff I've ordered from US only once (none rc) a long time ago was I stung That includes best part of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Thanks. That's good to know I've gone for a thunder tiger mt4 G3. Be nice to go out and hopefully not break much. The wr8 is a trooper but I find it difficult to find ground it copes on well. I find Tarmac etc boring. I like sort of small gravel. That seems to be where it's at home. Also in the woods seems to be good but I always find there's never enough room. Looking forward to rebuilding it and then using it when the monster truck breaks and vice versa. Does anyone use the HD drive shaft things? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 (edited) Just mounted the gopro inside the shell just to see what it looked like. It's a bit shaky obviously. I know the resolution is low but the gopro software was playing up, oh and before anyone says anything, I am in the process of trying to maybe make some inner wheel wells as well so should be fun http://youtu.be/-lyidU8NZOk Edited July 25, 2015 by Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy45 Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Apologies I've tried searching this but not managed to find the answer - how do you fit the roto-start backplate to the 3.0 motor in the WR8? I've got the correct kit as listed by HPI http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/101274 Looking at the rear of the motor the most natural place seemed to be with the starter shaft gear at the left hand side but this fouls the rear brace when I tried to refit the motor back into it's original position. Rotating the backplate so the gear would be at the top or rhs it's then blocked by the rear suspension and the guards which bolt to the rear suspension arms and it seems impossible to get the starter shaft to meet up at a fairly level angle. Don't mind if i have to cut a hole in the dirt guards but it seems like more than that is needed? Can put up some photo's tomorrow if that helps explain things? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Troy, not familiar with the nitro wr8, but do have previous experience with nitro rigs. I assume you have the additional one way bearing that the WR8 requires over the basic (Bullet) Roto-start kit? If I'm not mistaken the Roto start has a reasonably long shaft ~150mm? It doesn't have to be square/lined up perfectly with the socket on the engine backplate? With the car standing on a block of some sort, so the wheels are hanging free and therefore the suspension fully drooped, there should be enough room to place the shaft over the top of the rear right 'splash' guard, albeit at an angle (~30deg?) which the shaft should be ok with? It's very similar to the drive shafts/dog bones to the axles, in that they'll work at various angles, not just directly in line. Sorry if you've already tried this, but form pics I've seen it should be doable with suspension dropped, however I could be wrong, lol I doubt it needs anything drilling or cutting, otherwise HPI wouldn't list it compatible.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Has anyone installed these and no if they are any good? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy45 Posted July 26, 2015 Share Posted July 26, 2015 Troy, not familiar with the nitro wr8, but do have previous experience with nitro rigs. I assume you have the additional one way bearing that the WR8 requires over the basic (Bullet) Roto-start kit? If I'm not mistaken the Roto start has a reasonably long shaft ~150mm? It doesn't have to be square/lined up perfectly with the socket on the engine backplate? With the car standing on a block of some sort, so the wheels are hanging free and therefore the suspension fully drooped, there should be enough room to place the shaft over the top of the rear right 'splash' guard, albeit at an angle (~30deg?) which the shaft should be ok with? It's very similar to the drive shafts/dog bones to the axles, in that they'll work at various angles, not just directly in line. Sorry if you've already tried this, but form pics I've seen it should be doable with suspension dropped, however I could be wrong, lol I doubt it needs anything drilling or cutting, otherwise HPI wouldn't list it compatible.. Thanks for the reply - having a look with the car in bits now it does seem like there's reasonable access to get to the starter gear if it's at the top of the engine, not perfectly straight but maybe acceptable. I think that I was looking at it with the car on it's wheels which maybe made this look worse. I've got the 1-way bearing so that bit shouldn't be an issue. Still am a bit unsure as there is also another backplate listed for the WR8 http://www.hpiracing.com/en/part/113736?show_disc=true though my WR8 is the Abu Dhabi, 2012 iirc. But I thought all the chassis were the same to be honest. Maybe both backplates are suitable, the top left corner version would need some careful routing of the starter shaft but also looks feasible. Will see what my local shop say when I call in tomorrow with my latest list of numpty issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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