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Everything WR8


Dexter_ST

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Almost forgot to mention... on the rear Jazzrider uprights you may want to use different hardware other than what was supplied. IIRC they supplied m3x8mm cap screws and they should really be m3x12mm or there abouts. 

 

Other than that they were great (and yeah they arrived in less than a week for me too).

 

Mike

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70989d4bddc824964b55d05a72b32ce7.jpg

Got my WR8 up & running. Will do some test runs & prob upload a video. I own a traxxas XO-1 and in standard form (locked) it's close to 50mph.

Might try to do a video of both cars too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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I got my cheap-o chinese tyres and need to glue them.

 

Now, when I glued the HPI tyres, I made a right mess with glue everywhere. I've tried watching a couple of videos but wondering if anyone had any tips?

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best tip: Lol, by them pre-glued, it saves the hassle! :D

Its one of those things that only gets 'better' with practice I'm afraid ;)

What I do is wash wheels and tyres (not inserts obviously) in washing up liquid, wiping any white release agent off tyres particularly. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Then dry assemble, ensuring inserts sit nicely even. To help get an even pressure I use a couple of widish elastic bands around tread edges just big enough to be tightish without deforming to sidewalls.

Now the critical part that I've learnt the hard way- use thinner tyre glue with a nice long tapered nozzle! The HPI one I now use is great imo. Ease the tyre away from the rim a little with thumb and drop a small amount of glue into gap, allowing it to wick around the inner rim. Repeat every 2cm or so until you get back to the start, which should now be fixed. I then do another wheel before doing the other side to allow setting. Check you have glued completely around by trying to push tyre off rim. Spot any gaps with a little glue when pulling away from rim, iyswim?

Its inevitable you'll get some white glue on tyres, but a dab of black permanent marker helps improve things considerably ;)

Edited by J.A.Son
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No problem ;)

I think messiness aside, the only issue to avoid is the glue setting with the tyre not sitting properly in the rim. That happens if you hold the tyre off rim too long, esp with thicker faster setting glue. Drop glue in and let tyre sit. With pressure from lacky bands it usually works well

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Hi all.

 

I am getting back into rc after years of doing nothing, and after being an exclusively nitro guy due to my first electric being rubbish, I am getting an electric.

 

A guy on reddit sent me over here specifically to this thread, and after reading and looking at videos of the WR8 I am going to be getting myself one soon, with the view of eventually modding it and really having some fun.

 

So fingers crossed soon i will be posing a bunch and needing some help sorting the car out.

Edited by nereme
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Hi Nareme and welcome!

You won't be disappointed with the WR8. I was the same, coming back after a few years away, previous nitro guy.

The electrics are amazing these days- lipo power has transformed the whole scene imo! Just do a little homework on how to get the best out of your lipo packs (mainly storage voltage) and you won't look back. Oh, and don't worry about the 'horror' stories you hear about lipo fires etc, they're extremely rare and due to bad abuse by user.

As far as modding the WR8, it doesn't need anything particular out the box, although a set of rubber sealed bearings (rcbearings bullet kit ~

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Hi Nareme and welcome!

You won't be disappointed with the WR8. I was the same, coming back after a few years away, previous nitro guy.

The electrics are amazing these days- lipo power has transformed the whole scene imo! Just do a little homework on how to get the best out of your lipo packs (mainly storage voltage) and you won't look back. Oh, and don't worry about the 'horror' stories you hear about lipo fires etc, they're extremely rare and due to bad abuse by user.

As far as modding the WR8, it doesn't need anything particular out the box, although a set of rubber sealed bearings (rcbearings bullet kit ~

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The stock servo isn't that bad imo, certainly better than most rtr setups. Like everything else there isn't much wrong with stock WR8. Once you start spending it never stops imo of course ;)

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You need to be careful with a high power servo like a savox, the built esc bec isn't that powerful. You might end up getting brown outs/glitching! I ended up having to fit an external 10a bec ;)

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My stock servo was slow, swapped it out for a 1258tg within a month. The difference in steering is night and day from stock. The Savox does suck a lot of juice, exBEC is a good idea. Or something like this:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22632__Turnigy_TrackStar_120A_Brushless_Short_Course_Truck_ESC.html

Notice the BEC output (and the price!). ;)

Edited by Hotshot888
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Hmmm not had any problems so far. Only thing I've noticed is the steering rack doesn't turn fully one way. I need to compare sizes with the old servo and see if this is just a design thing or the savox is wider.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hi all.

I am getting back into rc after years of doing nothing, and after being an exclusively nitro guy due to my first electric being rubbish, I am getting an electric.

A guy on reddit sent me over here specifically to this thread, and after reading and looking at videos of the WR8 I am going to be getting myself one soon, with the view of eventually modding it and really having some fun.

So fingers crossed soon i will be posing a bunch and needing some help sorting the car out.

Hey Nereme! Glad to see you made your way over here and that you are thinking about picking up a WR8!

They really are a bunch of fun and like I said (if you can't tell already) these guys are a good bunch!

Mike

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My stock servo was slow, swapped it out for a 1258tg within a month. The difference in steering is night and day from stock. The Savox does suck a lot of juice, exBEC is a good idea. Or something like this:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__22632__Turnigy_TrackStar_120A_Brushless_Short_Course_Truck_ESC.html

Notice the BEC output (and the price!). ;)

 

Well if im honest I was doing some reading and despite it most likely being more than i would need for a while. I might have been eyeing the new Castle mamba extreme ones, as would give me plenty of options, just need to see pricing for them, I think i would need a tad of overtime to get one tho. The price i will say on the one you linked is really nice

 

Hey Nereme! Glad to see you made your way over here and that you are thinking about picking up a WR8!

They really are a bunch of fun and like I said (if you can't tell already) these guys are a good bunch!

Mike

 

Yea man cheers for sending me over, 

 

I have gone through alot of the thread so far and its been really interesting, finding things i dont understand then looking them up to learn . been alot to take in but its been a lot of fun.

Edited by nereme
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Hmmm, that's interesting, but how badly would a locked different effect turning ability? Surly it's going to be skipping about, even on an open track/circuit?

Lol, WR8 gets through enough rubber with different action :D

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For a drift car they would be pretty useful IMO.

As for racing, a lot of racers use spools on groomed asphalt, not saying most WR8s would benefit, but options are always good.

Additionally, this also means WR8 diffs will be in production for some time to come. Not a bad thing. ;)

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Looking at the unit you linked it looks like you could also use it as a center spool. That would probably be the most helpful all around. On and off a race course and just plain tooling around on asphalt.

Now one of you guys just needs to find a spur gear that will bolt to it. ;-)

This is all really cool stuff... I may have to go pick up another chassis. Lol.

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Yes, centre would/could be useful under the right conditions. Wouldn't a WR8 spur should bolt straight on?

On the subject of diffs, I've noticed, even after rebuilding my rear different with new shims/shafts & washers that the outdrives seem to wiggle more than than the new (breaker) complete diff I have on the shelf? Upon checking the front (in place) that seems even worse!? The only thing I can think of is the o rings are getting slack, as that's all that they run through.

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