scottanthony Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 So, we love these cars. I have had no issues with heat and I run 3s 5000 50C packs as hard as the car will run... But, we would like to hear some feedback on the overtrays we make. http://madskinzrc.com/index.php?id_product=49&controller=product&id_lang=1 We are looking to improve on them and make them better but keep em waterproof. Any feedback would be great because it can only help issues were have never heard of. We are also looking to minimize heat and keep them functional. Thanx, Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 So, we love these cars. I have had no issues with heat and I run 3s 5000 50C packs as hard as the car will run... But, we would like to hear some feedback on the overtrays we make. http://madskinzrc.com/index.php?id_product=49&controller=product&id_lang=1 We are looking to improve on them and make them better but keep em waterproof. Any feedback would be great because it can only help issues were have never heard of. We are also looking to minimize heat and keep them functional. Thanx, Scott Thanks for posting Scott. You know my issues already which is apparent overheating around the ESC area. If others could perhaps post their issues too...perhaps also quoting others issues to get a list that will be good? I would think a mesh/vent area around the ESC would be good and doesn't need to be waterproof if its a waterproof esc anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottanthony Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 Thanx Granty, your Post to our Customer Service Dept is what brought us here. It is much appreciated you took the time to help. The air issue around the esc I could perceive as being an easy remedy. I was thinking we need to get air under it completely too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrchippy Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Welcome Scott my feed back for the madskins cover You need to find a waterproof breathable fabric maybe the same thing as seal skin gloves or increase the diameter in order for it to be raised slightly at the front to allow a greater air intake, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) double post. Edited June 16, 2013 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi Scott, its great to see a supplier getting involved. It's a pity more don't, as its for sure the best way to improve any product. And there's always room for improvement, isn't there HPI! I think the key is a lightweight freely breathable fabric. Imo, these covers need not be completely waterpoof as such (as already said the WR8 is WP anyhow) but what really matters is keeping stones and similar debris out of motor area/gearing. Also, maybe light and 'baggy' enough to go over ariel, in order to create a tent for air pocket? Just my six penneth.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRAW Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi All,First post here. Geting back into RC after 17 year hiatus (had Nismo Skyline GTR33 Tamiya TGX MK1 ST). Decided to go with the WR8 Ken Block after much research. Picked up one here in Melbourne Australia for about 50 bucks more than what it cost me posted from US thinking its good to support the local shops and the 2 yrs warranty means its easy just to drop it to locally if i needed to fix it and they carry full stock of HPI parts. So a couple of questions if you dont mind:1) I wanted to get gens ace batteries but the Australian store doesn't operate anymore for some reason (anyone knows why?) and the hobby stores are charging double what they are worth in the US so I went with the Turnigy Nano-tech from HK. After checking the car's power requirements and battery space and size, I ordered a 2S 5800mah 40-80C for general driving and practicing and a 3S 4000mah 40-80C for occasional high speed and once i get more comfortable. Both soft cases with TRX plugs (bought some female Deans which i will replace with). So do you think these batteries are the right ones for the car? was it a good choice?2) in terms of chargers, I picked up a genuine IMax B6AC. Again this is from my own research, but is this a good charger for the batteries above? I also picked up a 3.3V warning buzzer for $2.50 (didnt want to spend 55 dollars on the HPI cable yet) and couple of lipo charging and storage bags. 3) The Ken B. was the last one in stock at the store and the box has been opened and manual out of the sealed bag but car was still cable tied to the cardboard and tyres never touched the floor, looks like they took it to have a look. According to the manual, it should come with a tyre angle adjuster spanner (Turnbuckle spanner) but mine is missing. Do they come with the spanner? the tools bag was sealed and came with HPI AA batteries which suppose not to be included. Its a small thing but still I bought something new and seems like its missing from factory.4) Finally any general tips regarding operation and maintenance, especially the latter, what is best practice after each run in terms of cleaning (with what?), lubing (with what and which parts) etc. Also any other specialty tools needed from start?Seems like there are a few parts that fail but i suppose the modding and replacing is part of the fun just like in full size cars. Thanks for your help in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) Welcome Ncraw, wow a lot to answer.. but I'll start with, great choice of RC! Batteries/charger you've bought sound bang on. The turnbuckle spanner is usually one end of the x wheel nut spanner, but essentially a 3.5mm iirc sized c spanner will do equally well. Of the upgrades that can be done, the single most needed imo is bearings! Rubber sealed Traxxas or equivalent will do nicely. The metal shielded OE ones are awful. Maintenance wise, no different from prob what you used to do 17yrs ago. Clean up & check; drivetrain and gear mesh every other run, or every run if off road, a drop of lube on visible bearings (hubs) and inside dogbone cups. Check nuts & bolts for loosness etc... The one 'consumable' your definitely gonna need a good supply of is tyres!! There's not a load of choice from HPI, but what they have are good. There's other 3rd party wheels/tyres that do fit, we're gradually finding more alternatives along the way! Most important, ENJOY! PS that body is no longer available, so be careful with it, lol! Edited June 16, 2013 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRAW Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Hi J.A. Thank you for the welcome and all the info. Very helpful indeed. What would you use to clean? I bought something similar to WD40 but this stuff actually is a cleaner and lube that goes dry (so doesnt pick up dirt) and is anti rust. With oil, would something like hair clippers thin oil work? got a tube of that from the Whal hair clipper or should i just use the above mentioned product? Also bought myself a can of "Air in a Can" just to blow things first before wiping and oiling. I suppose i should read the manual hehe, but what about the gear and engine pinions, they look dry. Keep em that way? Apologies for the more questions hehe I'm thinking to basically replace parts as they start wearing off. Ah one thing, I reckon someone needs to come up with wheel inner guards like in real cars. Basically a wrap around the tyres so no mud gets inside. Something that can be attached with the screws to the lower arms. Like this this one is to the body). Not hard to make some in thin aluminium and paint black. might give it a go. Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRAW Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Oh and man im already stressing about the body. Hopefully they come up with a few different ones later so can retire this one With tyres, i do like the Abu Dhabi ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) The pinion and spur want to stay dry otherwise oil will attract sand/stones etc causing probs! Yes, some thin oil should be fine- use the wd40 type stuff to clean and then lube with any thin oil. Mudguards would be useful, but tbh other than the cleaning afterwards there's not much tba can be harmed by a little dirt & grass etc. In fact, full covers are provinv to be problematic in heat retention. Edited June 16, 2013 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Had a little run on grass with Fastrax wheel combo and they are good. Seem strong too as after a few heavy sideways slams into a drystone wall no harm done, appart from a few scratches! Tread wise, no premature signs of wear: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Out of interest does anyone think that the fact that the gearing etc is open to the elements is a bit of a design flaw in the WR8? Given that it's design is rally and as such predominantly off road where you are likely to have debris and stuff that can clog up wouldn't it have been more sensible to have it enclosed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) It's quite common tbh, doesn't make it ideal, but as always with these things unfortunately theres a price point involved! Edited June 16, 2013 by J.A.Son Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrchippy Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Welcome NCRAW and remember just have fun and be safe, I use nitro cleaner on mine when been out bashing comes up like new, as for batterys i use hpi plazmas and get about 45 mins run time on 2s 5300mAh and about 20-30 on 3s 3200mAh and that's me off the road for a few weeks bent the motor shaft today and all my wheel bearings have gone. So nice email to hpi in the morning and on to rc bearings for the complete replacement, plus order my upgrade HD drivetrain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Welcome NCRAW and remember just have fun and be safe, I use nitro cleaner on mine when been out bashing comes up like new, as for batterys i use hpi plazmas and get about 45 mins run time on 2s 5300mAh and about 20-30 on 3s 3200mAh and that's me off the road for a few weeks bent the motor shaft today and all my wheel bearings have gone. So nice email to hpi in the morning and on to rc bearings for the complete replacement, plus order my upgrade HD drivetrain Those HPI plazmas may be expensive but they seem to have ridiculous run times? On a side note. Just had a good bash with mine. Finished the original KB body off, with two huge cracks to the rear so that'll get some duct tape but will run abu dhabi body now if I'm not doing anything too daft. Managed to rip of the side guard, a shock came apart and lost its oil but what eventually defeated me was them american wheels breaking and the centre bit getting stuck on the hub...while the rest of the wheel was to be found 20 foot away. Was all good fun though and managed 3 batteries....which is a record for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.A.Son Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 that's me off the road for a few weeks bent the motor shaft today and all my wheel bearings have gone. So nice email to hpi in the morning and on to rc bearings for the complete replacement, plus order my upgrade HD drivetrain Ah sh*#! What do you recon, a stone between spur/pinion? It's hard to know what's the greater risk, gear/motor damage or cover and fire! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrchippy Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 (edited) Don't know, maybe even the pinion itself came off twice even after thread locking it, slight damage to pinion and spur but main damage to motor shaft Mates making me a temp cover till I design my own Edited June 16, 2013 by Mrchippy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCRAW Posted June 16, 2013 Share Posted June 16, 2013 Thanks Mr Chippy. Sounds like there is not much to it. Just that manual says grease this and that etc . Now correct me if I'm wrong but wouldn't a simple window ala nitro cars fix the problem. Yes I know it's a bit unsightly but how about a WRX STI big bonnet scoop or even better a real rally car roof scoop. That would allow air in while mud guards stop any stones and crap getting stuck between the gears or even maybe make a kit of a few covers that go over the essential pieces. I reckon someone with a bit of 3D cad skill and a 3D printer can come up with one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 Very quick update as I am meant to be doing something more constructive this morning!! Anyway, the spoilers arrived a little earlier and (for me) there is a clear winner......the Absima one. It's width is almost perfect for the car and to make it fit it really doesn't take any particular engineering. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 If it can be mounted lower you could get the S2000 look. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC Freaks Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 bent the motor shaft today and all my wheel bearings have gone. So nice email to hpi in the morning and on to rc bearings for the complete replacement, plus order my upgrade HD drivetrain This. I've done 2 motors. My last one took 60 days to get a replacement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 That's not a bad shout.....I hadn't really looked but if you drill holes through the top of the rear window then the Traxxas Fiesta wing looks pretty good as well.....I'm now torn!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granty Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 That's not a bad shout.....I hadn't really looked but if you drill holes through the top of the rear window then the Traxxas Fiesta wing looks pretty good as well.....I'm now torn!! This one looks better imo...more OEM 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
road2ruin Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 So, having seen Leo's suggestion of the S2000 and had another play around with the spoilers I had a total u-turn and have gone with the Traxxas Fiesta wing! It was very easy to fit, just drill a couple of holes at the top of the rear window then bolt in the spoiler using the supplied screws..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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