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Everything WR8


Dexter_ST

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Possibly inferior connector fitted by Giant Shark, which I will be mentioning to them. The lipo itself is a very good pack imo, with 10 gauge wiring to handle its 50/100c capability. I just don't think the connectors are up to it!

EC5's will sort it! Hopefully they'll be here tomorrow, so I can run over w/e!

I was about to video how well the WR8 was handling the undulating grassy surface. I was impressed with the fact it has some in air throttle adjustability, given the relatively small wheel mass. Just wished I could use a cover to keep all the grass out, without causing potential heat issues!

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Think we need to do a bit of R&D on a suitable tray cover, will tray draw sumtin up for us

A buggy body, the right width would be a possibility. My H7 body is exactly the same shape as WR8 chassis, but about 20mm too wide. Maybe a 1/10 buggy body? The good thing about a lexan cover is you can vent it above motor esc etc and it'll stand off, not cling to them.

I wonder if the Koyosho DRX VE lexan under cover would be adaptable, can they be bought separately? I'll take a look at Squirrel's vid 1 YouTube review, as I seem to recall him looking at it in some detail?

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Anyone know if these will fit? The price is bloody great if so!:

http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/71869/?setMobile=2&auto=1

There's dish and a 6 spoke wheel (white only it seems) an a couple of tread patterns, block, pin & micro pin. Dyeable possibly??

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Maybe maybe not lol an yh they come in a pair there's a 2 in brackets at the end lol :P

An u can get coloured stickers for them off eBay mate don't know how much lol

Edited by Mrchippy
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Looks good to me. The only way the graphite shock towers would effect roll centre is if the shock.mounting.holes were different to the alloy ones, or you've used a different hole. Are they exactly the same when you place them on top of each other, do the holes match up? Now they're fitted you won't nec be able to tell.

You're always going to get some traction rolling on grass with off road tyres, but try less shock preload and also limiting droop with the droop screws that should have come with car. Also, if you can, shorten the anti roll bars as much as you can- ie try and get as much of the orange bar through mount attached the A arms.

Failing that use the tarmac tyres or slow more in turns..:P

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Cheers Jason I've fitted them the same as the ones were used the Same holds I think it mite be the ant roll bars as the front I can move freely how do I tieten it up? I'm thinking of getting some Tarmac wheels and tyres next

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Not checked this thread for a while...57 pages now! Interesting to have a scan through a few of the posts. After selling my 3.0 and getting a flux I haven't had much to post about as the flux has been ultra reliable (touch wood!) and easy to use. I had the chance to buy my 3.0 back, along with a load of spares, and couldn't resist, so now I have twins :)

Came back in a bit of a sorry state:

514281FD-8924-4FDA-88BD-EAC7C605C5F9-129

A full tear down, new bearings and several hours later:

B0D1558B-F242-45A9-A648-9857F3081AA0-129

Like new again. Well, nearly new:

25CDDABF-5516-48B5-A1DF-8AC6C23FB609-129

614701C0-F0B1-42D1-91D2-560EA4E52081-129

A4522782-E51F-4807-9004-43A73920FC11-129

Not sure how much I'll use it, but at least now if its playing up I've got the instant gratification of the flux. The guy I sold it too got ****** off with it cutting out at speed. It often did the same for me, so I think I'll concentrate on trying to stop it from doing that.

Must say that as well as being easier to run, the flux is a damned side easier to clean!

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Cheers Jason I've fitted them the same as the ones were used the Same holds I think it mite be the ant roll bars as the front I can move freely how do I tieten it up? I'm thinking of getting some Tarmac wheels and tyres next

The anti roll bars (arb) are supposed to move/pivot. Basically, they help transfer load from the inside loaded tyre to the outside unloaded tyre. Effectively lifting the unloaded arm/wheel to help keep the chassis flatter through a turn, ie less roll. This load transfer is more effective (stiffer arb) when a thicker bar is used, as it flexes less or if the bar between the a arm mounts is shorter, as it again flexes less. Think of it as a horizontal flag pole, fixed to a wall at one end with a weight on the other end. A longer pole is going to flex more than a shorter one, as will a thinner pole v a thicker one..;)

Obviously, as with everything suspension related there are trade offs for every adjustment you make. There is no one magic setup for all conditions. An example would be, a very stiff front arb can induce understeer on tarmac, esp in wet conditions! All things being equal, a simple rule is you'll essentially get less traction/grip at the stiffer end. So slippy conditions usu require a softer setup.

Wow, must have been on the Red Bull last night! :D

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