Milkie Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 I've been toying with the idea of buying a remote control car for a while.. This is my first nitro powered car, previously I had a eleccy buggy when I was 14. So no doubt I'll be using the search function and asking a lot of questions! I finally got one 2nd hand. I bought a NTC3+. It got delivered for Saturday morning, so I spent most of the day driving about for the final bits such as fuel, fuel bottle, batteries/charger and some spare glow plugs! After the batteries had finally charged (now sunday), I tried to start it/tune it. All those years of tinkering about with mini's paid off! Helped me work out why it wouldn't start/or stalled when any throttle was applied. Everytime I hit the brakes the car stalled. I took a look at the throttle linkage, looked in the manual for "how to adjust". Got it sorted, well almost.. It doesn't stall anymore, although I don't think the carb is fully open when on full throttle. I'm not to worried about this at the moment, as it was about 10 years ago that I had a remote control car, it's going to take me a while to get used to the speed! If anyone does know how to properly set this I would be most grateful for any info.. I'm a complete novice, my experience has been with mini's! I'll post some pics when I get a chance to take a few snaps. I've got some foam tyres on the car at the moment. I don't know if they are good or not, but the back end kicked out when corning. :-) Anyway, liking this forum with the stickys and the technical help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex199020 Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Welcome to the forum It stalling when you hit the brakes was probably because you had your idel set to low. Find the Idel adjustment screw and turn it clockwise about 1/8th of a turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 turn radio gear on, centre the trim (on the transmitter) then apply full brakes with the brake on adjust the idle via the screw so theres about a 1mm gap then let go of the brakes and re apply them to make sure there is a gap at full brakes. When it comes to starting the engine again open the carb via the trim on the radio a bit to give the engine more air then start the engine, if the car runs by itself turn the idle down a bit via the trim. after u've finished with the car for the day centre the throttle trim again, its just the heat that is making the engine need more air to start, come the cooler/colder weather u'll find it will run alot easier. and don't even think about tuning until u've broke it in lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 3, 2006 Author Share Posted July 3, 2006 with the brake on adjust the idle via the screw so theres about a 1mm gap then let go of the brakes and re apply them to make sure there is a gap at full brakes. Thanx for the tip, its perfect now. Using the throttle trim as a sort of choke helped too. and don't even think about tuning until u've broke it in lol Its already been done, but not buy me. I bought it 2nd hand, 6 months old from new (apparently) and used it at his local club/track until it closed down. I did have a few problems after work.. First it wouldn't start, even with using the throttle trim. I tried taking the glow plug out and air filter off to de-flood it, but it wasn't flooded. Glow plug & charger were working too. Didn't know what was wrong. After a little playing about with the HSN and maybe the idle screw it started. I kept checking the temperature of it with the spit test, it was doing fine. Until it stalled coming out a high speed turn. I richened it and after about 5 mins of playing I let it idle for a minute, pushed the throttle up a little and it cut out. Temperature was fine, I'm thinking it might be too rich at idle? I'm going to re-read the tuninig guide and all the other stickies to find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 Thanx for the tip, its perfect now. Using the throttle trim as a sort of choke helped too. Its already been done, but not buy me. I bought it 2nd hand, 6 months old from new (apparently) and used it at his local club/track until it closed down. I did have a few problems after work.. First it wouldn't start, even with using the throttle trim. I tried taking the glow plug out and air filter off to de-flood it, but it wasn't flooded. Glow plug & charger were working too. Didn't know what was wrong. After a little playing about with the HSN and maybe the idle screw it started. I kept checking the temperature of it with the spit test, it was doing fine. Until it stalled coming out a high speed turn. I richened it and after about 5 mins of playing I let it idle for a minute, pushed the throttle up a little and it cut out. Temperature was fine, I'm thinking it might be too rich at idle? I'm going to re-read the tuninig guide and all the other stickies to find out! Dont take the air filter off, if its flooded the fuel will fly out of the glowplug hole. Hope you have fun with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 I've been having fun with my NTC3! Although finding a place to run it is proving difficult so I'm using works car park at the weekends. I thought it was nice and smooth, until I checked it over and found some car killer bumps! The foam tyres I'm running are pretty good for drifting. I think they're rather worn. I'm not sure if I have an air leak.. So I tried tightening some bolts, the pull start was a little loose.. The problem was, the bolt heads seem to be different sizes and type (metric/imperial). So I've gotta get some more allen keys.. Also on the chassis they seem to be metric and imperial which seems a bit strange. My tuning is getting better, although at times it stalls at full throttle from a standing start.. Goes about 10-15 feet, with a lot of smoke, then cuts out. Tried richening it, which worked but then it stalled at idle, so I leaned the idle a little which worked. Having a friend there helped a lot with what was working and what wasn't, even hough he knew nothing about engines. I let him have a go and he nearly crashed it into a van, he quickly gave me the controller back, it was too fast for him. It still stalled every now and again but not as much as before the adjustments, it was getting better. In the end I ran out of time, i had to get to the hot rod show Hopefully my new fuel lines and fuel filter should be here soon. Going to buy some more allen keys and tighten up the bolts on and around the engine, fit the fuel lines and hopefully there will be no air leaks! I've already got the nitro bug. rofl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 I thought foam tyres were usually for carpet racing? Get yourself a nice set of slicks and some bling chrome wheels and it will look and handle even nicer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 9, 2006 Author Share Posted July 9, 2006 I thought foam tyres were usually for carpet racing? Get yourself a nice set of slicks and some bling chrome wheels and it will look and handle even nicer I have no idea if foams are for carpet racing? Is carpet racing, racing on carpet? cos I can't see anyone doing that with a nitro car? Must be a very big living room, with a carpet you don't mind dumping fuel all over. lol I bought some wheels with drift tyres. I haven't put them on yet, as I want to get the tuning semi-sorted (ie no stalling) first. atm under hard accleration it seems to have a lot of torque steer, but it could be the uneven ground its running on. No doubt a nice set of new rubber would help. Maybe next month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazzi220 Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 u will find the 3rd post down useful http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=3368 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted July 9, 2006 Share Posted July 9, 2006 I have no idea if foams are for carpet racing? Is carpet racing, racing on carpet? cos I can't see anyone doing that with a nitro car? Must be a very big living room, with a carpet you don't mind dumping fuel all over. lol I bought some wheels with drift tyres. I haven't put them on yet, as I want to get the tuning semi-sorted (ie no stalling) first. atm under hard accleration it seems to have a lot of torque steer, but it could be the uneven ground its running on. No doubt a nice set of new rubber would help. Maybe next month. Lol yeah, carpet racing is usually electric and usually 1/12th scale. Drifting is also usually electric as the acceleration is easier to control. You'd be better off with a set of slicks but you can try the drift tyres and get sum different ones when they have worn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 I've been having fun!! I made a stinger cap to stop the fuel leaking over the boot of my car and another one for my fuel bottle.. I've polished up my exhaust and manifold it's looking better than before! After the summer I might take it all off and give it a proper polished finish. Going to fit my new fuel lines and braiding at lunch. Just a question about the brake disc... Is it supposed to be loose? as in I can move it between the calipers. So I'm guessing when the cars moving its going to be spinning and moving against the pads. How can I stop this? Or is it normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake01 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 nice m8 im looking foward to seeing lots of pics then lol welcome to the forum and enjoy your stay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 (edited) nice m8 im looking foward to seeing lots of pics then lol welcome to the forum and enjoy your stay Thanx Jake. Here's the pics of the new fuel lines with braiding, it took about 15 minutes to fit. I used blue fuel tubing with purple braiding. I don't think I'll be able to see if it has any air gaps in the fuel line now though. And this one was taken on my desk at work, you might be able to see the shiney exhaust! You can see my stinger cap, I might try and make it a bit more presentable.. It looks crap, but it works perfectly. Edited July 13, 2006 by Milkie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake01 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 i carnt see the pics m8 but it might be coz im at w**k and putfile might be banned ill look when i get home m8 jake01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 i carnt see the pics m8 but it might be coz im at w**k and putfile might be banned ill look when i get home m8 jake01 You're right, think putfile is probably banned at your work.. Its working fine here. I want to take off the engine, exhaust, manifold and clean it all up, or maybe even get it chrome plated!! Problem is I can't undo the engine mountings! Allen keys just get mawlled, or the bolts do! Same with the fuel tank, one out of the 3 bolts will undo! Is there a complete chassis bolt kit I can get? So I can replace them all and have nice new bolts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake01 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 i think so m8 ill have a look and then post up the link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake01 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 is this what you are looking for and will this do your car m8 http://www.jespares.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=334 jake01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 13, 2006 Author Share Posted July 13, 2006 is this what you are looking for and will this do your car m8 http://www.jespares.com/catalog/product_in...products_id=334 jake01 Top man Jake!! Thats exactly what I want... I think.. Just gotta work out how to get the old ones out now! I'm thinking of superglueing the allen key in the bolt, then hopefully they should come out. Although I'm not gonna do this for a couple of months as I need to build up my confidence with rc cars.. Only had one a week! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake01 Posted July 13, 2006 Share Posted July 13, 2006 ok m8 no problem try a size bigger allen key aswell they are the best you can get m8 also Je are very good with getting parts to you also cheep i orderd my parts for my evo last night with standerd postage ill let you know when they get to me jake01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrspeedy Posted July 18, 2006 Share Posted July 18, 2006 (edited) crappy allen head bolts can be a real pain on the NTC3, use a dremel to put a good slot in the heads and then use a slotted screwdriver to remove the screws. keep these as standard cos the allen head bolts always round off. if you want somewhere to run your car come down to mendip track just outside weston . got a fantastic straight and is a real blast to race NTC3's i know cos we race two of them have a look here http://www.mmmrc.org/ Edited July 18, 2006 by mrspeedy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted July 19, 2006 Author Share Posted July 19, 2006 crappy allen head bolts can be a real pain on the NTC3, use a dremel to put a good slot in the heads and then use a slotted screwdriver to remove the screws. keep these as standard cos the allen head bolts always round off. if you want somewhere to run your car come down to mendip track just outside weston . got a fantastic straight and is a real blast to race NTC3's i know cos we race two of them have a look here http://www.mmmrc.org/ Thanx or the tip. I'm gonna get the dremel out at the weekend and take the engine off and give it a clean and check for any air leaks. The other day I had hours of fun! Then a few days later it just wouldn't start.. Then when it did, it wouldn't run for long before stalling. So I richened the HSN (leaned LSN to compensate the HSN), it was still too hot, yet seemed to bog down under acceleration, and have a rough idle. I'm guessing I had the LSN too lean and HSN too rich, but ran out of time. I seem to be chasing the tuning all the time, I need someone to show me how to tune it. Popping down to Southampton soon, my mates lhs will tune and show you how to tune your nitro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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