reggie Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 (edited) Still no joy. Put new fuel in, turned it over & it's still not firing. I've tried to eliminate the obvious so far. I've just tried priming it & noticed, that as I'm pulling, fuel is spitting out from the top of the engine, where the heatshield screws down onto. In a way this is good, 'cos it shows fuel is getting through. If I tighten the heatshield right up, to prevent the fuel spitting out, the pull start won't pull smoothly, as if something is siezing. Could it have something to do with the shim? Edited August 12, 2006 by reggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 To explain better, the 2 photos show the top bit where the glow plug screws into. This only sits loosely on the top of the head, & is being pushed up with the compression, which is causing the fuel to spit out. I have my old engine here & have removed the piston & sleeve, but the top piece is in there solid & I can't move it. I'm thinking it should be in there tight, to prevent movement & air leaks. Am I right?. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alexi Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 So the glow plug isn't tightening in enough? Have you tried another glow plug? (doesn't the manual suggest a long reach glow plug?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 So the glow plug isn't tightening in enough? Have you tried another glow plug? (doesn't the manual suggest a long reach glow plug?) The glow plug goes in alright, it's the bit the glow plug screws into. It only sits very loosely on top of the shim & piston. I would have thought it should be in there securely. Update. I've just sheared the jet off the carb by overtightening it. Bugger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 Yippee!!!!!!!!!!!!! It fired up & I had it running for about 2 minutes, b/4 it conked out again. Must be doing something right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted August 12, 2006 Share Posted August 12, 2006 Well done mate, Did u do anything different? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 12, 2006 Author Share Posted August 12, 2006 (edited) Well done mate, Did u do anything different? Not really. Just tightened everything down. It was running very lumpy & when I tried to give it a little blast with the acceleration, it cut out & I can't get it started again. Took the plug out & turned the car upside down, but it wasn't flooded. At least for a minute, it was great to hear it come to life once more. Hope it does it again I haven't got it on the road by the way, it's on a stand Edited August 12, 2006 by reggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 I will not be beaten. At it again to-day. Have got the carb at base settings & changed the plug for a no.4 (medium). I've now managed to get it started & running, albiet a bit lumpy, with the carb open about 1/3rd, via the trim wheel on the remote ( pistol). I can then gradually close the carb via the trim, to about 1-2mm from closed & then it'll stall. I've read & re-read the procedure for altering the HSN & LSN, but any help at this stage would be much appreciated, as I think I'm nearly there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallman28 Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 I will not be beaten. At it again to-day. Have got the carb at base settings & changed the plug for a no.4 (medium). I've now managed to get it started & running, albiet a bit lumpy, with the carb open about 1/3rd, via the trim wheel on the remote ( pistol). I can then gradually close the carb via the trim, to about 1-2mm from closed & then it'll stall. I've read & re-read the procedure for altering the HSN & LSN, but any help at this stage would be much appreciated, as I think I'm nearly there. If the engine has been run in already then the base settings might now be too rich,have you tried leaning out the engine slightly? Is there lots of smoke and is the exhaust spitting un-burnt fuel out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 (edited) If the engine has been run in already then the base settings might now be too rich,have you tried leaning out the engine slightly? Is there lots of smoke and is the exhaust spitting un-burnt fuel out? Yes to both, although more so with the unburnt fuel. i have tried leaning out the hsn, at the same time adjusting the idle, but I can't seem to get it to idle slowly without cutting out. I've took it off the stand & have got it on the floor now. Can't get it to idle enough to disengage the clutch Edited August 13, 2006 by reggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_t Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 sound to me like its FAR too rich if theres loads of unburnt fuel. try leaning it off a lot, but make sure you still have smoke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallman28 Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Yes to both, although more so with the unburnt fuel. i have tried leaning out the hsn, at the same time adjusting the idle, but I can't seem to get it to idle slowly without cutting out. I've took it off the stand & have got it on the floor now. Can't get it to idle enough to disengage the clutch Adjust the LSN,if you are on a stand and you have problems with the idle the LSN is the one to twiddle with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_t Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Adjust the LSN,if you are on a stand and you have problems with the idle the LSN is the one to twiddle with. also he must be major rich tho? if he said: es to both, although more so with the unburnt fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallman28 Posted August 13, 2006 Share Posted August 13, 2006 Adjust the LSN,if you are on a stand and you have problems with the idle the LSN is the one to twiddle with. Just to clarify,the stand isn't the issue I was just saying if it doesn't run okay OFF the ground then it is probably the LSN at fault On my TNX when I had LSN problems I could get it running okay but if I tried to pull away it would cut out instantly,I adjusted the LSN closed a fraction at a time until it would start and run without stalling. Put it all back to factory settings including the carb opening,start it and see what happens. If it runs but not very well adjust the LSN a little at a time,give it a few seconds to settle before adjusting it again and dont adjust big amounts in one go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 13, 2006 Author Share Posted August 13, 2006 (edited) Yeah, there's a lot of unburnt fuel. I'm out about 3 turns on the hsn with the lsn at factory settings. I'll try adjusting the hsn 1st & try to keep it running. Feeling a lot happier now, knowing that it will fire up. Enjoying the challenge of the set up now Edited August 13, 2006 by reggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 Had it running this morning on the bench & attempting to fine tune it. Couldn't get the revs down enough, with the throttle practically closed. I tried doing it by the lsn. All this is irrelevant now though, as the pull start string has broken. Back on the shelf for another 4 years I s'pose. Don't believe it, I was that close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 (edited) Had it running this morning on the bench & attempting to fine tune it. Couldn't get the revs down enough, with the throttle practically closed. I tried doing it by the lsn. All this is irrelevant now though, as the pull start string has broken. Back on the shelf for another 4 years I s'pose. Don't believe it, I was that close On closer inspection, it looks like the string has pulled out, 'cos the knots still on the end Edit that:- Took it aprt okay, but then the spring flew out, so that's the end of that. Edited August 14, 2006 by reggie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 Just thought I'd add, that I e-mailed Modelsport, as they have the right pull start for my car. Really helpful & will be ordering it. Not only a great forum, but I can get spares sent out as well. Brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milkie Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 There's a tutorial on HPI's website of how to rebuild your pullstart. Here's a link to the PDF. HPI Rebuild Pullstarter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Yeah mate, but if the spring has snaped, the chances of repairing it are pretty low, and youll probaly slice urself on the metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallman28 Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Had it running this morning on the bench & attempting to fine tune it. Couldn't get the revs down enough, with the throttle practically closed. I tried doing it by the lsn. All this is irrelevant now though, as the pull start string has broken. Back on the shelf for another 4 years I s'pose. Don't believe it, I was that close On closer inspection, it looks like the string has pulled out, 'cos the knots still on the end Edit that:- Took it aprt okay, but then the spring flew out, so that's the end of that. It is a pain but it is possible to re-wind the spring and get it back in. It has just come un-hooked from one end and when that happens the whole thing just springs out and looks impossible to get back in. If you look at the link above it will make sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reggie Posted August 14, 2006 Author Share Posted August 14, 2006 Thanks for the pull start link guys. I've been at it for an hour now. Looks really simple in the "How To" guide, but so far, I've narrowly missed being decapitated, came close to losing an eye, have twice had to dodge an out of control spring carreeing round the room & my fingers are killing me. I love this model car malarky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesChatz Posted August 14, 2006 Share Posted August 14, 2006 Yeah mate, but if the spring has snaped, the chances of repairing it are pretty low, and youll probaly slice urself on the metal I wont say I told u so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randomguy Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Next time, dont use WD40 - Use a diecent after-run oil like 3 in 1, or somthing WD40 can cause heavy wear on engines. Use a heavy oil to lubricate then flush out the oil by flooding the engine Hope it helps BRad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
er500 Posted August 18, 2006 Share Posted August 18, 2006 Repairing the spring on a pull start is a piece of cake, (once you've done it the first couple of times that is)the only problem being I only got 60 to 70 pulls before it snaps again. I repaired mine ½ a dozen times before purchased a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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