Stock_Nitro Posted October 10, 2012 Author Share Posted October 10, 2012 Final R/C Haul has arrived this week, sneak peek: Final pics and build to follow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted October 10, 2012 Share Posted October 10, 2012 looking very good i tried to get one of those strc spur gears but they were alway`s sold out. it should make it abit quieter from what ive heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybermenace Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Absoultely great build thread , I have one of these minis I am going to get the proline tyres you have can I get them mounted as I am crap at glueing tyres ? The bumpers are awesome I need a set of them along with the cnc front and rear braces .. Thanks for sharing Bil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted October 17, 2012 Author Share Posted October 17, 2012 (edited) Hiya Bil, Glad you like the build, i'm nearly done with the final stages of wiring everything up now; so the finished pictures and running vid etc. aren't far off As mentioned; this was my first time at gluing tyres and it was a little daunting to me; i'm sure i'd do better the next time around with the experience. I haven't personally seen them pre-glued, but then I wanted to have these specific wheels; so I wasn't really looking for it. - The benefit to doing them yourself is that you can belt them at the same time with Gorilla Tape to help prevent ballooning, so I think it pays to get them seperately. Either that or see if one of your fellow NEB lads is better at doing them and ask them to help Edited October 18, 2012 by Stock_Nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted October 19, 2012 Author Share Posted October 19, 2012 (edited) Penultimate Build Pics STRC Rear Carriers, STRC Ali Hexes, Rear CVAs: STRC Diff Mount: And then fully assembled with Tenshock 4600kv SC411 Brushless Sensored motor (swapped in the STRC CNC Derlin Gear shortly after testing the noise from the Standard metal one): You'll notice that i've sanded off the aerial mounting from the battery case and also shaped the upper diff plate, this is to make room for the wiring and placement of the Hobbywing SCT PRO ESC. 12T Pinion purely for testing fitment of everything at the moment, will be running 14T on 2S Lipo to start with, 12T will be for 3S if I get round to buying some in future. - Here is the new High Downforce Wing from a CRT .5: In my opinion it looks much more to scale with the vehicle with my tyres and is tons better looking than the standard white one. - Now on to the Electrics fitment and wiring, I have mounted the ESC on top of the Servo Plate at a slight angle, I've used the mounting plate supplied with the ESC to screw it into one of the servo mounting post holes and the mounting tab on the other side is wedged next to the front chassis brace arm to keep it from moving that way. This raised the ESC up a fraction and gave it some more distance from the drive shaft, it will also give the ESC a little more protection if the front driveshaft should bend for any reason. The ESC clears the servo arm on full lock in both directions and there is more than enough surface mounting space for it to be stable, I used double sided foam pads rather than zip ties. - For the wiring I have used Expandable Braided Sleeving to keep things tidy and a little more protected from scrapes and cuts. You need to seal each end with the heat from a match/lighter to keep the strands from fraying once you've cut it to length, then tidy up each end with some normal heatshrink to keep things in order. Here's just the motor wires to start with: I soldered the ESC wires on horizontally to keep the wiring as low as possible; so that it's not sticking up and swaying about during cornering and also for a simpler shell fitment. And here's everything else cut to length and sleeved up (ESC Power wires i've left bare as they need to move more depending on different battery sizes), Nano-Tech 6000mAh 2S 65-130C Hard Case Lipo (fresh from the UK Warehouse) with low profile 4mm Banana Bullets fitted, i've kept one set of wires with the balance lead for charging and taken it off of the other one for running inside the car to remove that worry (pictured): You can see the ESC Mounting Plate Screw from the above picture. You can see the clearance of the Servo Arm in this pic and also the ESC Mounting Plate tab that's wedged against the front chassis brace arm, the On/Off Switch is mounted on the side of the battery tray and the cable is simply heatshrinked to keep it away from the driveshaft. - All that is left to do is fit and secure the sensor cable for the motor and then fit the battery velcro straps. - My last part of the project is to design and paint the Bodyshell Hope you enjoyed this update. Edited October 19, 2012 by Stock_Nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybermenace Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Looking great makes me want to strip mine and rebuild it , Infact I will be over the next month or two What's all the upgrades cost you ? Bil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 Final Build Updates, here she is: Now to get the chance and the weather to take her out and get her dirty! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybermenace Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 (edited) Just get her out Edited October 28, 2012 by cybermenace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cybermenace Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 (edited) I have the same combo as you running 3s with a 14t pinion and mine was flying today wheelies even in the wet Edited October 28, 2012 by cybermenace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted October 28, 2012 Share Posted October 28, 2012 looking good i wish i still had mine now. i would use some shoe goo on the mounting plate as a safety feuture i broke one of the screw mountings of mine when i used it on the sc-8 esc so i done the shoe goo and it never moved again just abit on the esc to mout then mount to servo tray top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Is Shoe Goo affected by heat? could get warm on the ESC? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oranjedrol Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 This thing looks pretty, me likey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davidpal92 Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 looks great, I really like the wire covers.. Hmmm David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted October 30, 2012 Share Posted October 30, 2012 Is Shoe Goo affected by heat? could get warm on the ESC? not that ive noticed ive been using it on my mini 8ight for awhile with no problems and i know ive of a few people who have done it aswell with no problems the only bad bit is its a bugger to take the esc back of if needed as it dries that hard it sticks really well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated not that ive noticed ive been using it on my mini 8ight for awhile with no problems and i know ive of a few people who have done it aswell with no problems the only bad bit is its a bugger to take the esc back of if needed as it dries that hard it sticks really well Ahh ok thanks mate, i've got some on order and will give it a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 (edited) Ok, took her out for the maiden run yesterday to bed in the diffs etc. nice and gentle, nothing too strenuous. Really pleased with how the truck handled, no griproll, great ground clearance and a good turn of speed even with the ESC settings turned down. And most importantly; no damage Here's the aftermath pics: A lot of leaves collected along the central driveline and at the rear, they aren't in this pic as I plucked them out after the first battery change. It was great fun running in the fallen leaves this time of year However there is a large build up of mud on the rear arms as shown in the next pic: So next thing for the project is to create some arm-guards so they don't foul up and create excess friction around the driveshafts/hubs to sap the performance. Took some temps after each battery (7.4v 6000mAh 65-130C Turnigy Nano-Tech), temperature outside was 10C according to my 1:1 cars' sensor, the Motor was roughly 64C, ESC 34C and Lipo 45C via infared measure tool Lots of long sweeping runs across reasonable length grass and some general twisty fun amongst the leaves. I've upped the steering rate from 60 to 80 on my Tx to give some sharper turns for the next run and i'll up the punch value on the ESC as well and re-do the temp readings along with a run-time per battery before I start changing the gearing. I'll be adding in a power cap to the Rx and will unfurl the antena and mount it upright to get some more range. I'll see how that goes and then will make a few more tweeks/modifications to the steering assembly or the servo end points etc Edited November 20, 2012 by Stock_Nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mydoddy69 Posted November 22, 2012 Share Posted November 22, 2012 You gotta love getting her dirty .. Hows them badlands for you ?? i love mine to bits in the winter .. Hate them with a vengeance in the summer unless its wet which in this country is just about all the time .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted November 22, 2012 Author Share Posted November 22, 2012 (edited) They worked great, perfect grip on the grass and enough give through the leaves to make it fun but not un-controllable My current issue however is this: I thought i'd take a look at the suspension settings as the front was looking a little high, during my investigation I noticed that the left rear arm wasn't moving very freely. Closer inspection found that the upper and lower arm mounts for the hub carriers were a little tight, I loosened the upper one fine, but upon trying the lower one; it refused to come out. I ended up having to cut it free of the lower arm and have tried pulling with brute force, heating and manipulating it and finally oiling it; to no avail. So i'm going to have to drill it out tomorrow, pain in the backside the screw shaft must have bent ever so slightly when tightening it with the carrier grub screw or expanded or the carrier contracted around the screw. I'll be trying to replace the screw with a hex head one rather than the crappy cross-head that they've given..... The rear right-hand-side was fine. Edited November 22, 2012 by Stock_Nitro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock_Nitro Posted December 1, 2012 Author Share Posted December 1, 2012 Right, i've finally sorted it. I replaced the phillips head screws for hexes, but couldn't get ones that were a perfect match, there is one from Axial but no-where had them in stock, so tried two different types from HPI Top is M3 x 45mm Middle is standard Hyper TT M3 x 35mm Bottom is M2.6 x 35mm the M2.6 is the perfect length shank and thread, but there is just too much movement for my liking with the smaller diameter, I had hoped that if there was a tightness that the 2.6 would get around that, but the M3s are fine, so no idea what it was. Settled for cutting down the M3 x 45mm to size, the thread goes a little further inside the arm shaft, but it doesn't bind, job done Since taking the picture I moved the camber link back to the inner hole as forgot it was there from before when I re-assembled it - Have fitted the upright antenna tube, so just need to figure out where to drill the hole in the bodyshell, might take some ingenuity Once that's done it will be time to get it back out and re-adjust the settings and then get some running vids up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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