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High end touring car setup thread


ratman

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Anyway it's not like I was persuaded to get an Awesomatix then I've been drooling over them for a while and since I had had it up to here *raises hand above head* with my T4 and taped joins it was a clear choice for my next ride.

 

 

I may be reading this the wrong way but are you saying you've been having problems with your T4? I always thought they where meant to be a great chassis?

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I may be reading this the wrong way but are you saying you've been having problems with your T4? I always thought they where meant to be a great chassis?

 

The biggest problem I had was finding the best oil to use in the gear differentials and getting the wishbones to fall on their own weight.

 

Now its a nice car to race with.

 

But each to their own, we all find in good time what we're looking for :thumbsup:

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Do the T4's come with front and rear diff's? Or is the front one an optional extra?

 

I initially used 3000wt oil in the rear diff on my Mi5 but have gone to the kit setting of 2000wt which has a made a fair difference to the way it handles.

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Do the T4's come with front and rear diff's? Or is the front one an optional extra?

 

I initially used 3000wt oil in the rear diff on my Mi5 but have gone to the kit setting of 2000wt which has a made a fair difference to the way it handles.

No, the kit spec is a spool upfront.

 

I got a differential for the front as a separate item.

 

I use 500,000cst hudy oil up front, due to the fact that I race with foams indoors.

 

Rear, indoors I would say 3,000 is about right. 2,000 may give a little more turn in (oversteer) as the diff is working less to get the front end around.

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My T4 was bad over tape.  We don't have good tape here, always a problem.  Thing with the T4 is that it rubs on the ground a lot which means it can be flipped more easily on a raised tape edge.  Other problem is that the T4 generates a lot of traction and I feel I need this traction to keep the car stable, problem here is that makes a big difference between the grip from carpet vs tape.  So hit a bit of tape and the car will break traction.  Answer to this problem is to soften the car and take traction away but this also means a slower softer car.

 

So not like you can't work around this or find the ideal compromise between traction and performance over tape I'm just fed up of tuning my car for performance over tape rather than for the track layout and surface.  T4 is a great car.

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X-rays usually have a lot of grip which adds to the tyres radial force. Maybe the extra slip on the tyre on the tape increases the fore-aft force which will increase the others up pushing the RFV over an acceptable limit which will mess with the lateral force making the tyre break grip.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Another high end touring car to set up =D  Bit different but really nice to work on, kinda makes others look silly in this respect and the respect of quality and dimensional tolerance.  I'm overjoyed =D About to go give it a shake down =D

 

EastHertfordshire-20131025-00048_zps0909

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It drives even better than it looks.  I mean seriously can't understand how these cars aren't just winning everything out there.  They feel like cheating, almost like going down 2-3 teeth on the pinion but retaining the top speed.  Silly punch, had to learn how to control the throttle through the chicane tonight as I kept overshooting.  Best of all, I can't stop smiling and can't wait to race again next week which is good since I can do Fri, Sat, Sun as Rug Racers is on =D

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The only annoying thing to set on it is the caster.  It wouldn't be so annoying if it wasn't tied so closely with camber.  It's just taking a measurement for caster is a pain.  Either screw a shock shaft or long screw into the upright and read the value on a set up station or hold a straight 90deg edge on the upright and use a normal camber gauge to take the measurement.  First method has parallax error so got to look straight on or it will be wrong.  Second method is just awkward holding everything in place then checking the camber gauge lines up properly.  This will be solved when my caster doodles arrive...

 

ausa-cd01_zpsf3a4bba2.jpg

 

Everything else on the car is very easy to set.  One of the best things about working on this car is that you have to dismantle very little to get to what you need.  Yesterday before I went out for my first run I noticed the rear hubs could do with some shimming.  I didn't want to upset my camber/caster so I just unscrewed the plate they are attached to on the inside, popped the driveshaft out the diff outdrive and then shimmed them without removing them from the car.  The car is more complicated than a standard TC but only because we aren't used to this design, really its very well designed both for performance and maintenance.

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It really looks superb, and it sounds like its also running well.

Be good to see how the car holds up. I know it's expensive but it looks so complete and if it is as tough as they say then it looks like an attractive proposition.

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So who is doing what rounds of Rug Racers this year?  I'm booked in for all rounds in 17.5 blinky but there are only 2 places left at the last round in that class.  Still places in 13.5 and GT12 for round 3 onwards though.

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