quackyduck-190 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 So I found a local 1/10 electric touring car club. I want to start racing but I don't know the first thing about touring cars or racing as I've always bashed offroad. First off I'll need to know what is a good chassis, where I can buy (good) parts cheaply and since I don't know what I need to know, any other advice would be good. I'm gonna try and go to the club to see what people run there for motor/esc, suspension, etc. but other than that I'm a metophorical penguin in a metophorical desert... Help please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UltimateRC Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Tamiya TT-01's are good. They have brilliant part support and are easily upgradable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samshirley001 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 +1 to tt01, and electronics wise, get a saturn 20 to start off with, they are nice and fast, cheap too, perfect for starting off, and when you get better, upgrade to brushless 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quackyduck-190 Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 I've looked at some other forums and they don't seem to rate the TT01 very highly. I mean, if the other guys at the club have them then sure I'll get one but I would like to be a bit competitive even if I don't win everything to start off with. Also, the cars I've looked at don't come with bodyshells so where do I buy one cos I can't find one on any of the usual sites I look at and my local shops don't tend to deal with the on-road stuff. Which makes things a bit more difficult for advice but hey, tthat's what clubs and forums are for, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Feedtheinferno Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 ++1 On the TT01 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samshirley001 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 for a bodyshell, get a protoform speed6, they handle great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pieman5 Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Guys, please be sensible, this guy wants to start racing, are you are all suggesting TT01's? seriously? I used to race with touring cars and i got on very well with an old xray chassis that i picked up for about 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quackyduck-190 Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 It's all very good you lot saying '+1' about the TT01 but it doesn't really help. Where can I buy parts, bodyshells, etc.? You're not telling me anything I need to know. You're just saying that I should buy the TT01. Other cars do exist. So, how would you rate other cars? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UltimateRC Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 For TT-01 parts, the bay and all over the internet. You'll find 'em everywhere. I would also recommend the schumacher kits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattr Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Go to the club, have a look, ask questions. You'll probably find (if its a decent sized club) that someone will have a decent 2nd hand car set up to get you started. Or at least, one guy will have a chassis, someone else will have an ESC/Motor and so on. Its probably most important that you see what chassis everyone runs at the club as opposed to motors/ESCs, as if you are the only one there running a particular model, you'll be stuffed for parts. If there are half a dozen running Schumacher Mi's for instance, you'll be sorted if you break something (and for getting it set up too). Motors/ESCs and so on are pretty much interchangeable in comparison to something like suspension arms!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danny boy Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 (edited) Apex models have a nice range of protoform body shells http://www.apexmodel...aloon190mm.html or specificly i think these are highly rated http://www.apexmodel...how/PL1465.html and as for racing i wouldnt advise a tto1, there sloppy cars which arent really that good for racing. Piemans advice is the best by far, an old x-ray T2 or Schumacher Mi3 of ebay will be much more competitive and more up to date. Xray T2 spares found here http://www.apexmodels.com/index.php?app=gbu0&ns=catshow&ref=Xray-spare-XrayT2008&count=9&offset=0 Schumacher Mi3 spares found here http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-catshow/Schumacher-spare-SchumacherMi3.html Edited August 10, 2012 by danny boy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quackyduck-190 Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 (edited) sorry about my last post. the page didn't refresh so i hadn't seen your comments (those of you who were a bit more helpful that is). thank you for your suggestions. i hadn't even heard of xrays until today! not sure about schumacher. they tend to be expensive. i shall see Edited August 10, 2012 by quackyduck-190 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quackyduck-190 Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 the other thing i've realised is that you get 190mm and 200mm. what does that mean? how does it affect the car's prformance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattr Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Not sure, i'm not a TC man, prefer buggies, but, if its a TC club, they will probably have a series of race classes, related to chassis type (and size, that being the 190/200 (think its the wheelbase?)), body shell type, motor size, battery and so on. So its still best to go to the club and ask!! Or see if they have a website/contact email etc. They may even have a recommended car, i know our place sort of does, it changes every now and again, depending on what everyone is running that year! I bought my first buggy based on internet advice, got to the club and found out no-one ran that particular car. Everytime i crashed i had to order parts, i reckon i wasted half my trips to the track!! Ended up buying a different car so i could get some help with set ups etc and everyone had spares lying around. If i'd done it the other way round, i'd have saved meself several hundred quid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 Hi. I race in norwich (at nrmcc, prevously kellers club) If you want any info give me a pm. Its a good freindly club to race at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quantra Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 (edited) I suggest something second hand to get started with. I would avoid the TT01, on the track it's only really good to test the waters and generally won't be up to the job. Often the easiest thing to do is to grab whatever chassis is going 2nd hand at the club that way you can have something suitable and set up right away. It also makes sense to go for something which is popular at the club so that you can get set up advice from other racers and if you break something there is a much better chance there will be someone there with the parts to get you back on the track. In general Tamiya, XRAY, Schumacher, Hot Bodies and TOP are all good brands but my preference is with Tamiya. Normally a second hand TRF416 sells for Edited August 11, 2012 by Quantra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 11, 2012 Share Posted August 11, 2012 If it is the club i race at (well its the only club in norwich) Then you want to use either an mi4lp / cx, or xray t2 or t3. O r you could join me in the tamiya elite.lol and run a trf417 or trf416. Give me a pm and i can help you out. we have a website. www.thecarclub.org.uk and a forum nrmcc.forumotion.com and a facebook page https://www.facebook.com/groups/287817394604333/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quackyduck-190 Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 (edited) Thanks guys Ratman If you mean the club at Trowse then yes that's the club Edited August 12, 2012 by quackyduck-190 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 12, 2012 Share Posted August 12, 2012 Yep trowse is where i race. You will love it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qatmix Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 Just FYI the older TRFs (415) can take all of the modern suspension plastics etc. I have a 415 as a wet car that has 417 running gear installed, including a Gear Diff in the rear. Fitting a lipo either involves filing the bulkhead, or just hanging it out the side (The preferred option). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaylan Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 you what to get a bd chassis matey a (belt drive) look a t schumacher/ xray/ tamiya thats of the top of my head.....and as for the bodys mentiond 190mm 200mm dosent mean all that much like a tt01 say is a 190m chassis but can very easaly take a 200mm shell with bigger of set wheels or even spacers on the axles :thumbsup: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 (edited) What he really needs is a car that is common at our club so that if he breaks something he hasnt got then someone else will probably have it and he can borrow it. No one said the 415 was a bad car but they arent exactly easy to get parts for quickly Theres no benefit to running a 200m shell on a 190mm chassis. Wheel spacers dont make the cars handle better because they are wider, they can have the opposite effect in some cases Edited August 13, 2012 by ratman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qatmix Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 (edited) Agreed, however at our club we run 416's, ta05's and 417s the c hubs, uprights etc all get shared alongside with the 415. It's cheap to update it to the 417 plastics as they are compatible. So unless you break a chassis plate or bend a bulkhead (I've never done that in 25 years) you will be ok running a 415. Edited August 14, 2012 by qatmix Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quantra Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 (edited) Nothing wrong with the 415's I have 2. I did find them a pain to run though because of mounting the battery, finding a spool that fits and holds the belt in the right place and being independent on parts. I didn't upgrade all my plastics to 416/417 so borrowing a part would have meant having different parts on left and right or borrowing a pair. It's also worth noting that the 415 uses different size bearings in it's hubs than the 416/417. The real issue I had was with fitting a LiPo the rear bulk heads on the msxx foul the battery and on both my 415's I've had to do some modding to get a battery to fit at all. So certainly not impossible to keep a 415 running or too expensive due to lovely cheap Tamiya goodies but I do feel, particularly for a beginner, that after the cost of upgrading to 416/417 parts and the stress of fitting a battery that it's better and easier to start with a 416. EDIT: Incase anyone is trying to work out a spool solution (I spent months trying to find something) eventually I used a 3 racing 416 spool with the pulley mounted the wrong side and spaced towards the middle. Edited August 14, 2012 by Quantra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ratman Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 Well I race at the club he is thinking of racing at and a tamiya is not the answer to his first touring car. Although i have quite a few spares for my 417 (so also for the 416) I dont have everything that could be broken. The car he should buy is an mi4lp or mi4cx as there are soooo many people running them that they will have everypart that could be broken (even down to bulkheads and chassis plates) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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