Jay1 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 One of my rear shocks is leaking, its a small hole in the main body. Does sound like a fault Ansmann need to sort out. Think I'll take heed of Ch!efs advice and buy alloy. I found these... Check out this item I found on eBay: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261095944142 Trans4's recommendation is probably better though as it's from an SC specialist. As for esc/motor combo, others more experienced in SC are probably better to advise here. My two penneth would be to start as you mean to go on, ie buy brushless and invest in a durable esc 60+ amp (120 if it was me) and keep in mind your esc is transferable to any model if you ever get fed up with your SC4. As for motor a 10.5t is a good all rounder. Id consider a new thread and see what some of the other electric fanatics recommend. It's a big decision imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 (edited) evo if you do need alloy shocks contact dom.c on here he sells alloy sets for the sc Edited October 20, 2012 by Jay1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 yes mate its the second ansmann kit ive had 1st was a macnum to see what the quality was like, the shocks on that did the same leaked from the piston hole on 1 and on top cap another, and the top popped off the 1 that was leaking at the top after 1 run. best bet is the alloy 1s but the 1s domc is selling are the 1s from hobbyking i was going to have some off him then found them on the hobbyking site with poor reviews so gone for the ansmann 1s which are ok for the money. if you do go for the ansmann 1s empty the oil out of them its like treacle fill with the 20wt oil you got with kit will still be abit stif because the piston only has 1 hole in it could do with 2 or 3 for better flow and make them softer too. not saying dont get the shocks off domc im still tempted for the price might just be people expecting them to perform like Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Thanks for the advice. So are the shocks already assembled internally? Or do I have to undo them all and rebuild as per the manual? Hopefully it's just a case of filling with oil. I might try the stock shocks and see if they leak. If they do I'll get some new ones. Page 16/17, the shock absorber bit is a bit confusing. It mentions front short x2 and rear short x2. Then on the next page it shows some oil being put in then mentions front long x2 and then rear short x2! Mine came with 200 wt silicone oil in the kit by the way. I've put the shocks and wheels temporarily to see what it looks like. The front's seem to turn very easily. I can hear the servo whirring when I turn but they seem to turn a bit too easily for me, certainly compared to other's i've tried. Looks good though, but I don't have any SC4 stickers on the bodyshell and the red colour on the bodyshell is actually very pink! JE spares sorted me out some ansmann stickers though so I'll have to plaster it in those, or respray the shell somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 the shocks ar pre assembled ready to be filled just fill them and fit. with the ansmann alloy 1s they are also pre assembled bu would recommend taking the piston out and replacing it with a 3 hole 1 instead. you want the short 1s up front and long at the rear dont take notice of the manual its about as use full as a carrier bag with a big hole init. if the wheels turn easy thats a good thing dont want it stiff that will put presure on the servo and prob strip the gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Are the ones from DomC threaded? Cooking oil... Love trade secrets like that. ;-) Yeh threaded , ansmann are not just looked at the link. they look same as std ones but got alloy bodys still need to pre load with spacers bit pants may aswell use std shocks. if they dont leak. yeh cooking oils in everyone cuboard if you ever desp for shock oil hehe, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 the standard shocks are basic ok to start off with but will eventually leak or break thats why they make the hopup alloy 1s to replace if you want too.the alloy 1s are 100% stronger and will take more of a pasting then the kit plastic poo which is needed for racing and bashing. just because they are not threaded doesnt mean anything yes its a bonus having the threaded bodys but most other budget kit cars come with smooth shocks too just alloy already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 God I'm an idiot! Just finished the car, apart from the electrics and not oiled the shocks while I decide on which to get. Really enoyed it in the end and quite pleased with myself. So...thought I'd put the bodyshell on the posts, saw very small indentations in shell, which I asumed were markers for where to drill out the holes so they would line up with the posts. Lovely neat job, put it on and the posts are nowhere near! I now have 4 holes in my bodyshell that don't match up with the posts! If I use the stock shocks, is the 200W oil ok? Also, page 20 of the manual, the page that's called motor/reciever, on the diagram of the motor installation, there a square box showing some components and the words 'must be purchased seperately'. Any idea what that's about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 Worked it out, it's a fan for the motor. Presumably it's optional and not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 i did the exact samething with the shell rushing as usual out of excitment lol. yes the oil included is fine for it. you can go heavier but i wouldnt till you have tryed it 1st Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 i did the exact samething with the shell rushing as usual out of excitment lol. yes the oil included is fine for it. you can go heavier but i wouldnt till you have tryed it 1st Glad it's not just me then! I was swearing like a trooper when I realised. Those small indentations must be for where to drill surely? There's an aerial one too. But they're in the wrong place for this chassis anyway. I'm not quite sure where to drill now. Just looking at some pics online to see where they should be. Need to think about radio gear and electrics now. It's all money though that's the problem. Thinking about taking them off my buggy to save money but they also race buggy's at the club so if I can get my head straight enough to join that then I'd probably want a buggy too. At least I know how to dissasemble it all now I've built it. I have a nagging hunch that I've not put anywhere near enough grease on the balls in the diffs. Appreciate all your help by the way guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 (edited) Glad it's not just me then! I was swearing like a trooper when I realised. Those small indentations must be for where to drill surely? There's an aerial one too. But they're in the wrong place for this chassis anyway. I'm not quite sure where to drill now. Just looking at some pics online to see where they should be. Need to think about radio gear and electrics now. It's all money though that's the problem. Thinking about taking them off my buggy to save money but they also race buggy's at the club so if I can get my head straight enough to join that then I'd probably want a buggy too. At least I know how to dissasemble it all now I've built it. I have a nagging hunch that I've not put anywhere near enough grease on the balls in the diffs. Appreciate all your help by the way guys. look at the pics on the box that will give you a rough idea on where to put the holes,its harder to mount painted though trying to get the holes correct. ball diffs work fine will little grease or loads the more you put on the more that will comeout and just go on the inside of the gear box.id use the electrics you have for now nothing worse then having to pit 2 cars aswell as marshalling you struggle for time to do repairs if you break both and batteries also an issue means more batteries and 2 chargers to make sure they are ready in time for the next race. Edited October 20, 2012 by ch!ef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I've not drilled my shell yet, so thanks for the heads up guys. Once my motor plates fixed, I'll be off. Not racing it though, just some fun on the park. Unless you have spare electrics Evo, I agree with Ch!ef. Race meetings are no fun for me when it's constant stress repairing cars etc. I like a good chin wag too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 (edited) I've really ballsed up this shiny new shell! Drilled the fronts on exactly as it shows on the box, but it doesnt even reach the rear posts as it just hits top of rear bumper assembly. At least it'll let lots of water through when it rains.... Basically, it's the middle of the rear that's hitting the bumper so it wont drop low enough. I've tried pulling the shell behind the bumper so it lowers but then the wheel arches are totally out. I'm thinking of rotating the post mount as it's angled so might be better, although mines fitted as it said it manual and in the pics on box. Edit: or cutting some slits in back of shell so it drops lower? Edited October 21, 2012 by Evo_ermine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 21, 2012 Share Posted October 21, 2012 I've noticed that my decals aren't positioned as the ones on the box. I went by the front bonnet holes on the pics to drill mine out but my decals go much further forward than on the box. I need to trim the rear middle of the shell I think so it clears the bumper to drop low enough for the posts. Is it common to have to trim shells? I don't mind doing it as want to get it just right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 ill post some pics of mine later got a few things to do. i just copied the box for the holes put it on the car and looked underneath to make sure they looked right then marked with a marker pen to drill them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 well i ran mine for the 1st time today tyres are really grippy on tarmac didnt seem to wear that much to say how soft they feel. i did notice though that with it setup with the spacers on the shocks it just falls over turning will be much better with out them on for use on road i think. i split the shell too not sure how were it split there are no scuffs or anything! lol ill get some pics now of where my holes are too forgot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 pics of my shell and a sneeky peak at my setup running a 10.5t gm motor but i could do with going up on the pinion got a 22t on so going up to 24t see how it goes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Looks good Ch!ef, nice and tidy. Im still waiting to sort my motor plate out then I'll be off too. Thanks again for the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 cheers ive drilled a hole in the chassis to hold my cables also helps if the esc comes loose to hold it in. my motor plate is also crap ive had to put longer screws in it as the 1s i had didnt even go tight when i screwed them in the thread just went straight away.same happened on the other part of the plate too where the top deck screws down so done the same there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Thanks for pics Chief. My front posts are same as yours, front overhang is identical, but the rear won't drop low enough to go in the right holes as it catches on the rear bumper assembly. I can't figure it out. It's almost like the rear body mounts aren't high enough, but I built it correctly. Glad to see it wasn;t just me who screwed the holes up! My motor mount screw got stuck when the cheap allen key i was using wouldnt work. I'd glued the screw, like it said, started to screw it in then it stopped and i thought i'd mashed the screwhead, being so soft. But i bought a fastrax driver and it went in no problem. Infact I had no problems with the ansmann hex screws at all once I'd bought a decent driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 post a pic of the rear end of the car showing the bumper and posts from back and side with shell off and same with it on. i have a multi tool allen key from fastrax cant fault it, i rounded a couple of threads but i didnt even do them tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbie2210 Posted August 13, 2013 Share Posted August 13, 2013 Would any short course 1/10th bodyshell fit onto the Ansmann SC4? or is it a bread unto its own? I dont like the particular one that comes as standard, and I cant find a suitable replacement, even on the Ansmann site. Any ideas guys? would love to do a jazzed up version. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rp16v Posted August 14, 2013 Share Posted August 14, 2013 take a look at my sc2 thread for a look at the proline shell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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