Evo_ermine

Thanks for pics Chief. My front posts are same as yours, front overhang is identical, but the rear won't drop low enough to go in the right holes as it catches on the rear bumper assembly. I can't figure it out. It's almost like the rear body mounts aren't high enough, but I built it correctly. Glad to see it wasn;t just me who screwed the holes up! My motor mount screw got stuck when the cheap allen key i was using wouldnt work. I'd glued the screw, like it said, started to screw it in then it stopped and i thought i'd mashed the screwhead, being so soft. But i bought a fastrax driver and it went in no problem. Infact I had no problems with the ansmann hex screws at all once I'd bought a decent driver.

Thanks for your suggestions. Been looking at the Etronix range as they're cheapish. I actually have their 3930kv system in my Buggy and it's very fast. Thinking of removing it and using that to save myself

I need a motor/ESC system for a Ansmann SC4 truck. I think I'm right in saying it's based on the buggy but with bigger wheels. So what recommendations do you have for a motor. I'm more interested in picking a sensible motor for racing on a 2S rather than bashing. Looking at some RTR 4x4 trucks, some come with a lowish KV rating and others with higher ones. I read a thread a while ago where Si Coe was helping someone with a Ansmann SC truck and it turned out the motor wasn't good enough but I can't seem to find it. Any suggestions? Ta.

I've noticed that my decals aren't positioned as the ones on the box. I went by the front bonnet holes on the pics to drill mine out but my decals go much further forward than on the box. I need to trim the rear middle of the shell I think so it clears the bumper to drop low enough for the posts. Is it common to have to trim shells? I don't mind doing it as want to get it just right.

I've really ballsed up this shiny new shell! Drilled the fronts on exactly as it shows on the box, but it doesnt even reach the rear posts as it just hits top of rear bumper assembly. At least it'll let lots of water through when it rains.... Basically, it's the middle of the rear that's hitting the bumper so it wont drop low enough. I've tried pulling the shell behind the bumper so it lowers but then the wheel arches are totally out. I'm thinking of rotating the post mount as it's angled so might be better, although mines fitted as it said it manual and in the pics on box. Edit: or cutting some slits in back of shell so it drops lower?

Glad it's not just me then! I was swearing like a trooper when I realised. Those small indentations must be for where to drill surely? There's an aerial one too. But they're in the wrong place for this chassis anyway. I'm not quite sure where to drill now. Just looking at some pics online to see where they should be. Need to think about radio gear and electrics now. It's all money though that's the problem. Thinking about taking them off my buggy to save money but they also race buggy's at the club so if I can get my head straight enough to join that then I'd probably want a buggy too. At least I know how to dissasemble it all now I've built it. I have a nagging hunch that I've not put anywhere near enough grease on the balls in the diffs. Appreciate all your help by the way guys.

Worked it out, it's a fan for the motor. Presumably it's optional and not necessary.

God I'm an idiot! Just finished the car, apart from the electrics and not oiled the shocks while I decide on which to get. Really enoyed it in the end and quite pleased with myself. So...thought I'd put the bodyshell on the posts, saw very small indentations in shell, which I asumed were markers for where to drill out the holes so they would line up with the posts. Lovely neat job, put it on and the posts are nowhere near! I now have 4 holes in my bodyshell that don't match up with the posts! If I use the stock shocks, is the 200W oil ok? Also, page 20 of the manual, the page that's called motor/reciever, on the diagram of the motor installation, there a square box showing some components and the words 'must be purchased seperately'. Any idea what that's about?

Thanks for the advice. So are the shocks already assembled internally? Or do I have to undo them all and rebuild as per the manual? Hopefully it's just a case of filling with oil. I might try the stock shocks and see if they leak. If they do I'll get some new ones. Page 16/17, the shock absorber bit is a bit confusing. It mentions front short x2 and rear short x2. Then on the next page it shows some oil being put in then mentions front long x2 and then rear short x2! Mine came with 200 wt silicone oil in the kit by the way. I've put the shocks and wheels temporarily to see what it looks like. The front's seem to turn very easily. I can hear the servo whirring when I turn but they seem to turn a bit too easily for me, certainly compared to other's i've tried. Looks good though, but I don't have any SC4 stickers on the bodyshell and the red colour on the bodyshell is actually very pink! JE spares sorted me out some ansmann stickers though so I'll have to plaster it in those, or respray the shell somehow.

Have pretty much assembled it apart from electrics. The shocks seem full assembled yet it's showing on page 16 /17 about assembling them and putting oil in. Do I need to do this or is it just an option. They seem to work ok as they are.

I did a couple of hours last night at 2am as couldn't sleep. Don't know what stage you guys are at but I'm on page 12, assembling the front hub carriers. What motor/esc combos are you going to install? I was looking at the Etronix ones from Modelsport but not sure which one to go for. They come in 4 different flavours but not sure which is the correct kv to go for for a 4wd SC truck, bearing in mind the SC4 is based on a buggy and is smaller than most full size SC trucks. I'll only be running it on 2S. I'd like to try the brushed motor that comes with it but I know brushless is the way to go and so might as well get it installed rather than pulling it out later. Not many ESC's around that handle brushed and brushless though. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix/esc-motor-combos/rc-car-categories/9920/992020&ManufacturerID=1174 I'm sure the diffs are too tight but bit late now.

Thanks for the support guys. I have now done it correctly. The pics were mega helpful. I went back through Chiefs pics again and started from scratch and seeing it in situ on jays pics It's now correct. Really pleased about that. Daft thing is it's not rocket science but the way I'm feeling small things can seem stupidly hard. Did you guys use the silicone oil or the tub of grease to oil the dogbones, as the manual shows it needing oil. I've managed to do the first step of fitting the servo to the chassis too which is good. @Transformation - I am near Grantham mate.

Thanks Jay, it's all a bit t*ts up on the mental health front lately. Almost threw this kit in the bin yesterday due to not coping particularly well. Can you or chief just confirm, when the built centre assemblies in situ on the chassis, with the two bearings sat in their slots on the motor mount and that other plasticky bit thats also bolted on the chassis, should the rear one be sloppy, as in the bearing's totally loose on the shaft? If i push the bearing over the cup they won't fit in their slots. Maybe like you say once the covers on the covers it'll sort it but as it is the whole thing moves up and down because the shaft/pin isn't held by anything on the rear end of the assembly. I'll try and get a picture up if I can figure it out. Thanks.

Sorry for the delay. I think I'll decline on that as I'll probably get a mild brushless motor in as it'd be nice to race it at my local club (A1 racing club) sometime. That ESC is brushed only I think. Will bear it in mind though, cheers. To be honest, I haven't built any more of it due to being ill. I've had another go at that centre gear assembly but it's still not sitting right in the chassis. I can't figure it out but I'm struggling to concentrate due to my medication. But basically even when the bearing is on the drive cup, on the final bit, it won't sit in the motor plate (i think thats what it's called) correctly. Only way they fit it if I have the bearing loose and flapping around on that centre pin/shaft. I'll need to try again I think.

Ok thanks. Do you use servo tape to fix it to the chassis? I don't have a ESC yet though as not sure what I'm gonna use. Either a new brushless system or the stock brushed motor that comes with it plus a lipo ready ESC. What do you use in yours?

Well in that case my drive cup has a manufacturing fault as the bearing won't fit. Measuring the two cups up it's visibly much fatter. Gonna have to sand it down for the bearing to fit. They're the same part number so it's a fault basically. Otherwise thanks a lot for the pics, was very helpful. I've just skimmed on to the servo fitting stage in the manual and am already baffled! My cheapo servo (Hitec HS-311) came with a white wheel attached to it but the manual shows a servo without one which you attach the arms to. Might have to pick your brains about that at some stage too, I'm not even sure what bag it is for the screws, I'm so disorganised...right now though I'm struggling to find some sand paper! Cheers.

OK, sorry, i think i've done it. The bearing on the rear end of the assembly, is loose and flaps about until its sat in situ in the chassis, in the motor mount and other side. Is that correct? If so, I've done it. Edit, dont think it can be, as it's too loose, vertically.

Chief, thanks very much. Followed it and it's assembled, almost! The last bit, quote: "now just put the last bearing on the other drive cup put on the shaft and put the screw in and its done.simples"...the problem is, my other drive cup, the bearing doesn't fit on it. It's fatter than the other one, even though they're the same part number! But on your first point, the pic where you say "put the bearing on the drive cup", you don't actually have it on the drive cup, just over the pin on the shaft. I have done this and it looks correct. So, in summary, am I supposed to put the bearing over the drive cup in the last pic? If so, mine doesn't fit as it's too fat. I am gonna have to sand it down or something to slide it over the drive cup. I have fitted it onto the motor mount and plastic mount next to it and it fits with both bearings sitting right. But without the drive cup having a bearing on it the cups sortof flapping around when rotated, as if it was running. Sorry for being a bit thick.

Yeah thanks, I kinda saw how it was done in the brochure with the drivers and your pic shows it more clearly. But I just tightened the screw up manually and it seemed to work easily enough. That is what that screws for right?! Yeah the centre gears annoying me. I noticed the centre rod has to go a certain way as it's not equal distance between the holes at either end, but the way the diagram shows it it's hard to work out exactly how it's done. And I've never built a kit before you see so I've no reference really. There's two parts, the bit that the drive shafts plug into, number 125009129. There's 2 of em yet on one it's too big to fit the bearing over it, yet they're supposedly identical. I think I'm reading it wrong and need to do it again. I have built it and sat in in it's place and it worked, and the bearings seemed to sit right in the chassis. But I'd sooner be sure. Thanks.

I'm building one too and i didn't really understand that 2 screwdriver thing. I just used a flat blade screwdriver to tighten the screw up in the end of the diff. I'm currently struggling to build the central gearbox bit, with the spurgear. It's hard to interpret the diagram to work out the precise order of it all and the small pins that go in.

If it doesn't have a cut off then you will need an external low voltage alarm to run lipos. They're cheap though, Modelsport sell them and lots on Ebay.

Thanks guys. Those vids were very helpful. The instructions in the manual are pretty dire so it's nice to see how much grease to use and stuff like that. I've had to build 2 diffs, once for front and one for back, and then there's another 'thing' i've had too build two of, a sort of arm with a cog on it which meets the big diff cog, but the manual doesn't explain what it is. Currently bit baffled how to put the smallest 'E-Ring' in the world onto that. I've messed up already though when installing some parts to the chassis...the hex screws are so soft and a couple have rounded off without being all the way in. Now I can't get them out or in! I need a dremel or something to cut a slot in the screw so I can use a screwdriver to screw it home. I'm not sure I'm meant for kits...!

Hi, I'm just building my first kit, an Ansmann SC4, and am stuck on the diff. It says once the diff is assembled to 'use a screw driver in each end to secure the hubs either side and rotate the diff case until it becomes tight'. How tight is tight? I'm bit baffled as it's got tiny ball bearings inside, so presumably the point of that is to allow it rotate inside. But if i do it up tight it'll not allow them to rotate on the bearings. I've tried and it needs a lot of pressure to rotate the two halves when done up tight. I know nothing about diffs so any help is appreciated.

Being a girl I'm sure she'd love this: http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-the-hornet-by-jun-watanabe/rc-car-products/370190

Eh? Surely you mean most 2.4ghz are the wheel type?