Evo_ermine Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) Yeah thanks, I kinda saw how it was done in the brochure with the drivers and your pic shows it more clearly. But I just tightened the screw up manually and it seemed to work easily enough. That is what that screws for right?! Yeah the centre gears annoying me. I noticed the centre rod has to go a certain way as it's not equal distance between the holes at either end, but the way the diagram shows it it's hard to work out exactly how it's done. And I've never built a kit before you see so I've no reference really. There's two parts, the bit that the drive shafts plug into, number 125009129. There's 2 of em yet on one it's too big to fit the bearing over it, yet they're supposedly identical. I think I'm reading it wrong and need to do it again. I have built it and sat in in it's place and it worked, and the bearings seemed to sit right in the chassis. But I'd sooner be sure. Thanks. Edited October 16, 2012 by Evo_ermine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Thanks Ch!ef, that does help. I will indeed need to move the black O-ring and slacken the diffs a little. I've tightened them too much at the moment so it's like a spool diff with no give. Like you evo I also just stuck a screw driver in diff and made it really tight... Almost stripped the thread on the front... Whoops! It's my first build too and I think we're in a similar boat, ie could do with a few more notes in the manual to accompany the diagrams. I also need to re thread the motor plate that fastens to the chassis. Mine was tight as anything, not cross threading, just really tight and needs tapping out a little deeper. Im enjoying building it tough and would rather mess up on this than something four times the price. Thanks for the help and advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) the 2 driver is to test it not tighten it. if it slips tighten the screw up abit more if its stiff its too tight. heres some pics on how to assemble the centre gear bit start with the easy end put the bearing on the drive cup put the pin in the hole slide the drive cup on then put the screw in. next slide the larger shim on then put 1 of the small pins in the hole as shown below push the pin right in now slide the bearing over the pin then put the long pin in the hole shown put the spur gear on with the next shim and put the next small pin in now just put the last bearing on the other drive cup put on the shaft and put the screw in and its done.simples p.s sorry about the picture quality! Edited October 16, 2012 by ch!ef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Ch!ef, that's what I call A1 tip top help... And you apologise for the pictures! Top guy, Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 no probs hopefully they are clear enough for you to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Chief, thanks very much. Followed it and it's assembled, almost! The last bit, quote: "now just put the last bearing on the other drive cup put on the shaft and put the screw in and its done.simples"...the problem is, my other drive cup, the bearing doesn't fit on it. It's fatter than the other one, even though they're the same part number! But on your first point, the pic where you say "put the bearing on the drive cup", you don't actually have it on the drive cup, just over the pin on the shaft. I have done this and it looks correct. So, in summary, am I supposed to put the bearing over the drive cup in the last pic? If so, mine doesn't fit as it's too fat. I am gonna have to sand it down or something to slide it over the drive cup. I have fitted it onto the motor mount and plastic mount next to it and it fits with both bearings sitting right. But without the drive cup having a bearing on it the cups sortof flapping around when rotated, as if it was running. Sorry for being a bit thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) OK, sorry, i think i've done it. The bearing on the rear end of the assembly, is loose and flaps about until its sat in situ in the chassis, in the motor mount and other side. Is that correct? If so, I've done it. Edit, dont think it can be, as it's too loose, vertically. Edited October 16, 2012 by Evo_ermine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 (edited) mine went on top right of picthe bearing that goes on the otherside (the 1 you put on 1st)fits on the centre shim for the spur gear make sure the shim has the fatter side going on 1st.as seen in this pic Edited October 16, 2012 by ch!ef Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Well in that case my drive cup has a manufacturing fault as the bearing won't fit. Measuring the two cups up it's visibly much fatter. Gonna have to sand it down for the bearing to fit. They're the same part number so it's a fault basically. Otherwise thanks a lot for the pics, was very helpful. I've just skimmed on to the servo fitting stage in the manual and am already baffled! My cheapo servo (Hitec HS-311) came with a white wheel attached to it but the manual shows a servo without one which you attach the arms to. Might have to pick your brains about that at some stage too, I'm not even sure what bag it is for the screws, I'm so disorganised...right now though I'm struggling to find some sand paper! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 swop the cups over if it fits 1 and not the other. as for the servo take that servo horn off just undo the screw and pull it off then it can be mounted in the car if you centre the servo 1st before putting the servo horn on its alot easier to get the steering straight 1st time or almost anyway.to do that you need to hook up all your electrics out off the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 Ok thanks. Do you use servo tape to fix it to the chassis? I don't have a ESC yet though as not sure what I'm gonna use. Either a new brushless system or the stock brushed motor that comes with it plus a lipo ready ESC. What do you use in yours? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 16, 2012 Share Posted October 16, 2012 theres some servo mounts in there somewhere use those.ive gone brushless in mine for now as i dont have a touring car to put my brushless setup in. ive a hpi sc-15wp esc i had in it which i bought for it but only used once if your interested?its lipo ready and waterproof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 theres some servo mounts in there somewhere use those.ive gone brushless in mine for now as i dont have a touring car to put my brushless setup in. ive a hpi sc-15wp esc i had in it which i bought for it but only used once if your interested?its lipo ready and waterproof. Sorry for the delay. I think I'll decline on that as I'll probably get a mild brushless motor in as it'd be nice to race it at my local club (A1 racing club) sometime. That ESC is brushed only I think. Will bear it in mind though, cheers. To be honest, I haven't built any more of it due to being ill. I've had another go at that centre gear assembly but it's still not sitting right in the chassis. I can't figure it out but I'm struggling to concentrate due to my medication. But basically even when the bearing is on the drive cup, on the final bit, it won't sit in the motor plate (i think thats what it's called) correctly. Only way they fit it if I have the bearing loose and flapping around on that centre pin/shaft. I'll need to try again I think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Hi Evo. Sorry you ain't too well pal. There are definitely servo mounts in there, think they were in the same bag as the steering mechanism. As for you centre diff wobbling, it should all tighten up once you screw on the top diff covers which is near the end. Only two faults on my build. 1/ Motor plate needed pre threading. 2/ Rear shock leaks from a pin head sized hole ( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Thanks Jay, it's all a bit t*ts up on the mental health front lately. Almost threw this kit in the bin yesterday due to not coping particularly well. Can you or chief just confirm, when the built centre assemblies in situ on the chassis, with the two bearings sat in their slots on the motor mount and that other plasticky bit thats also bolted on the chassis, should the rear one be sloppy, as in the bearing's totally loose on the shaft? If i push the bearing over the cup they won't fit in their slots. Maybe like you say once the covers on the covers it'll sort it but as it is the whole thing moves up and down because the shaft/pin isn't held by anything on the rear end of the assembly. I'll try and get a picture up if I can figure it out. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Hi Evo fit all the internals in the case then bolt it down see how it goes the 2wd version is loose till you set the ball diff correct so the 4wd version might be like it. as ive not had the 4wd version yet im not 100%.If you have mental health issues bud take a break from it not sumut you can get you head round why not in the right frame of mind go back to it once your feeling better chin up go have chill pill an brew for bit ive been there you will get better im sure...hope you get it sorted soon im sure one of the guys will get you to where you need to be with it .... your sig says lincs you far from friskney ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Not sure if these pics have uploaded, or will be of any use, but worth a try. Additional to Ch!efs, they show my centre gear in situ, but not fastened in. The metal motor plate is obviously missing (needs re threading) and the top covers are not on. The whole thing wobbles at the moment. I'm sure I had to use a bit of force to push bearings on. You can identify the front end from the servo wire. I agree if it's annoying you, just leave it for now. Always better to cast fresh eyes over it in a day or two. Plus, once you've finished building it you'll only be scratching round for something else to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Thanks for the support guys. I have now done it correctly. The pics were mega helpful. I went back through Chiefs pics again and started from scratch and seeing it in situ on jays pics It's now correct. Really pleased about that. Daft thing is it's not rocket science but the way I'm feeling small things can seem stupidly hard. Did you guys use the silicone oil or the tub of grease to oil the dogbones, as the manual shows it needing oil. I've managed to do the first step of fitting the servo to the chassis too which is good. @Transformation - I am near Grantham mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 Glad your getting there evo you will be out blasting in no time..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jay1 Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 (edited) Nice one Evo. I only used the lube on my diffs. Nothing on the dogbones. Not saying that's the right thing to do but once running its one less thing for crud to attach to. Think the silicone oil is just to fill the shocks. And Evo, regardless of what some expert modellers might say, any model on this scale is difficult for us newbies, so you ain't alone. Plenty of folk wouldn't even take on the challenge! Edited October 18, 2012 by Jay1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 I did a couple of hours last night at 2am as couldn't sleep. Don't know what stage you guys are at but I'm on page 12, assembling the front hub carriers. What motor/esc combos are you going to install? I was looking at the Etronix ones from Modelsport but not sure which one to go for. They come in 4 different flavours but not sure which is the correct kv to go for for a 4wd SC truck, bearing in mind the SC4 is based on a buggy and is smaller than most full size SC trucks. I'll only be running it on 2S. I'd like to try the brushed motor that comes with it but I know brushless is the way to go and so might as well get it installed rather than pulling it out later. Not many ESC's around that handle brushed and brushless though. http://www.modelsport.co.uk/etronix/esc-motor-combos/rc-car-categories/9920/992020&ManufacturerID=1174 I'm sure the diffs are too tight but bit late now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evo_ermine Posted October 19, 2012 Share Posted October 19, 2012 Have pretty much assembled it apart from electrics. The shocks seem full assembled yet it's showing on page 16 /17 about assembling them and putting oil in. Do I need to do this or is it just an option. They seem to work ok as they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 (edited) Have pretty much assembled it apart from electrics. The shocks seem full assembled yet it's showing on page 16 /17 about assembling them and putting oil in. Do I need to do this or is it just an option. They seem to work ok as they are. no you need oil in them bud it only feels ok due to the springs, adding oil takes out the shocks from bumps etc else it will just keep bouncing like its on air rides hehe...dont run it with no oil. i dont know what oil others run but 30w to 40w max should do you but see what others use 1st. an when filling shocks never just poor it in add bits at a time an push shock up & down slowly why the top caps of to get oil threw the holes in the inner shock washers then just keep going till shock oil is about 5mil ish from top or being so if you do big jumps etc it dont blow he shocks lol thats how ive allways ever built them an never failed.. good to see your near the end and if you have no funds for proper shock oil cooking oil works shuuuuuuuuuuuush did i say that out loud lol did our savages well getting megga bashed many years ago Edited October 20, 2012 by Trans4Mation 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ch!ef Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 dont fill the shocks with your oil save it and order some ansmann alloy 1s mine leaked as soon as they saw the oil never mind filling them. when filling the shocks ive always filled about half way pushed the piston up then pulled it back down to get the air out do this a couple of times slowly mind then top up, ive alway run mine full never tryed the oil and air method. i get it about 2mm from the top stick the orange/red rubber top cap on so its flush with the top of the shock wipe any excess oil away and put the top on.with the plastic 1s though they cross thread really easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trans4Mation Posted October 20, 2012 Share Posted October 20, 2012 If the kits shock are junk whats the crack there cause the rtr core & core kit dont leak only fault i had was it sat like a slammed 1.1 so added shock spacers & was ok after handles well to. sure if theres a fault ansmann should correct it . ive messed with lots of rc shocks in my time like drilling the inner bore holes bigger to get oil in quicker to get better set ups. evo if you do need alloy shocks contact dom.c on here he sells alloy sets for the sc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.