Iain .R Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Well my daugher went out the front and on the garden and road and while on the road when you stopped it slowly pluued off then went nuts . Grass nope it chugged stuttered like thomas tank engine with stutter. Then went nuts . It goes faster backwards than it does forwards .. ???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 Let me know about the spur pinin what you do . Other wise its going in the bin .. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 2 minutes ago, Iain .R said: Hi . Cheers thanks for doing this. Iv upped the no 4 to max 10 which is 25%. I also re lined the motor up again this time bit help from my daugher as I was moving the motor top then bottom vice vers till sounded nice Now I had her to move the whole motor as one till it sounded nice then held it till I secured it . With doing them the car goes a bit quicker of the mark but have to pull the trigger slow not on Mark's set go . Then the car moves a lot off quicker . It's a lot better not been outside yet as i need lie down .. As for your math I have a 17t on there what would you try next. As I dont mind swapping the pinon an spur . Cheers Looks like we are getting somewhere. Well, the pinion is trial & error. I bought 9T, 10T, 12T & 15T to replace the 17T. It all depends on your motor. I ended up deciding for 10T & 12T. Went for 10 to hold the option of more speed for my son later (depending on school performance). Maybe try 13T with your 65T? That gives you a ratio close to mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 If it is faster in reverse you might want to swap the cables between motor & ESC. I had the same problem with my mine. Some experimenting is required there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 54 minutes ago, Jens said: Looks like we are getting somewhere. Well, the pinion is trial & error. I bought 9T, 10T, 12T & 15T to replace the 17T. It all depends on your motor. I ended up deciding for 10T & 12T. Went for 10 to hold the option of more speed for my son later (depending on school performance). Maybe try 13T with your 65T? That gives you a ratio close to mine. Ok . I just had a look on ebay for carnage pinions and it's just 17t . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 53 minutes ago, Jens said: If it is faster in reverse you might want to swap the cables between motor & ESC. I had the same problem with my mine. Some experimenting is required there. I just do the colour match orange yellow blue . I'll try the pinion 1st . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 1 hour ago, Iain .R said: Ok . I just had a look on ebay for carnage pinions and it's just 17t . I checked your spur online in parallel earlier. :-) Your spur has a mod 0.6 pitch. That means you will need to find a pinion with the same pitch. I doesn't need to be from FTX. If you search ebay for -rc pinion "0.6"- you will find some. Bore should be 3.175mm. I changed to 32DP pitch because the teeth are a bit bigger and 32DP seems to be more common. Bigger teeth = increased longevity. My 10T pinion is from Team Corally. ( Don't ask me the difference of mod 0.6 and 48 or 32DP ) Honestly, if you go brushless, think about getting a set of hardened steel spur & pinion. £20 for the 32DP spur £5 for a pinion of choice Not that the money for the pinion will be wasted after you rounded the spur. Happened to me and many others before. 1 hour ago, Iain .R said: I just do the colour match orange yellow blue . For my Hobbywing the color match didn't work. So I played marry-go-round with the cables until I was happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 9, 2021 Share Posted March 9, 2021 41 minutes ago, Jens said: I checked your spur online in parallel earlier. 🙂 Your spur has a mod 0.6 pitch. That means you will need to find a pinion with the same pitch. I doesn't need to be from FTX. If you search ebay for -rc pinion "0.6"- you will find some. Bore should be 3.175mm. I changed to 32DP pitch because the teeth are a bit bigger and 32DP seems to be more common. Bigger teeth = increased longevity. My 10T pinion is from Team Corally. ( Don't ask me the difference of mod 0.6 and 48 or 32DP ) Honestly, if you go brushless, think about getting a set of hardened steel spur & pinion. £20 for the 32DP spur £5 for a pinion of choice Not that the money for the pinion will be wasted after you rounded the spur. Happened to me and many others before. For my Hobbywing the color match didn't work. So I played marry-go-round with the cables until I was happy. Cheers I just bought 4 diffrent size pinions one got to work lol . I thought the colours was to match . Ok I'll sort that out when the pins arrive cheers a BIG thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRX Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 On 09/02/2021 at 21:11, Jens said: If it helps: Got one for free for you. However the front holes to mount the front bumper have broken of. You might need to put them on with superglue. But will make your Carnage usable again. ( The brown stuff is diff grease! And not something else. ) Oh man... I snapped my chassis on the same spot, where it meets the bumper. This is a poor design and bound to happen again as the bumper acts as a hinge and rips itself in case of a frontal impact. Does this mean I have to replace the entire sub frame just so I can attach the bumper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Hi m8 if it's where mine snapped yea as there not much you can do . . . . Iv had to bin my snapped one as theres no way you can glue it . I did try and sandwich it between 2 alloy plates and bolt it together but all the stuff around got in the way so 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 9 hours ago, TRX said: Oh man... I snapped my chassis on the same spot, where it meets the bumper. This is a poor design and bound to happen again as the bumper acts as a hinge and rips itself in case of a frontal impact. Does this mean I have to replace the entire sub frame just so I can attach the bumper? Sadly, yes. If you want to have it fixed, then you need to get a new bottom plate and transfer everything. It is not a perfect design. Once the Y arm above breaks, the bottom plate is in danger to brake next. I immediately stop bashing when that happens. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 10 hours ago, TRX said: Oh man... I snapped my chassis on the same spot, where it meets the bumper. This is a poor design and bound to happen again as the bumper acts as a hinge and rips itself in case of a frontal impact. Does this mean I have to replace the entire sub frame just so I can attach the bumper? Hi TRX, just browsed the Thingiverse for fun. That might right be what you and many more need: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743829 Front bumper repair plate. Just need a 3D printer. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Found 2 more things at Thingiverse for those with damaged front bumpers: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4685494 - Front Bumper https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4684863 - Front Bumper Bracket 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Not too sure on the yellow bumper looks bit too transformers for me lol . The 1st one base plate I definitely want one them if it was a bit longer awell dow past the snapping point maybe as far as under the 1st servo screws battery post . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 1 minute ago, Iain .R said: Not too sure on the yellow bumper looks bit too transformers for me lol . The 1st one base plate I definitely want one them if it was a bit longer awell dow past the snapping point maybe as far as under the 1st servo screws battery post . Yellow was the color of choice for showing it at the website. For 3D printing you can choose almost any color. Provided it is available. How about pink? Could match with some wheels of yours. You would need to find someone that can 3D print for you. Thingiverse only presents the models. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iain .R Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 3 minutes ago, Jens said: Yellow was the color of choice for showing it at the website. For 3D printing you can choose almost any color. Provided it is available. How about pink? Could match with some wheels of yours. You would need to find someone that can 3D print for you. Thingiverse only presents the models. Ha ha pink mmmmmmm . My daughter would love that . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 8 hours ago, Jens said: Yellow was the color of choice for showing it at the website. For 3D printing you can choose almost any color. Provided it is available. How about pink? Could match with some wheels of yours. You would need to find someone that can 3D print for you. Thingiverse only presents the models. 13 hours ago, Jens said: Hi TRX, just browsed the Thingiverse for fun. That might right be what you and many more need: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4743829 Front bumper repair plate. Just need a 3D printer. Great find! Will definitely look into this option. Me and my son have a carnage each. I have spent quite a few hours now replacing chassis. I can almost guarantee a part will break on each outing we have and this is up there with the most common. Why make the front of the car so fragile?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 7 minutes ago, Ant.p said: Great find! Will definitely look into this option. Me and my son have a carnage each. I have spent quite a few hours now replacing chassis. I can almost guarantee a part will break on each outing we have and this is up there with the most common. Why make the front of the car so fragile?! Welcome to the forum and the Carnage Owners Thread! ( Don't forget to say hello to all in the newbie section ) Another one caught in the endless loop of bash, brake, order, repair, back to start. ( But at least the parts are dirt cheap and you don't shed much tears ) Here you find 263 pages of good advice. Enjoy reading.... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Worked a treat! Haven’t tested it yet, so not sure if it will last, but if I have an accident with another hidden tree stump at full throttle I doubt anything would stand up to it. For now, both cars are good to go again, thanks to a local 3D printer service. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 ... and thanks to you, Jen’s for finding the part and posting it on here. 🙏🏻 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 1 minute ago, Ant.p said: ... and thanks to you, Jen’s for finding the part and posting it on here. 🙏🏻 Welcome! Thingiverse and other 3D databases are a good resource for solutions of known problems. What I dislike a bit is that the plate covers 2 screws which hold the Diff. Removing the front diff will be now a bit more work. But I think the design of the plate can be changed. If not, a knife will do the job.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 2 minutes ago, Jens said: Welcome! Thingiverse and other 3D databases are a good resource for solutions of known problems. What I dislike a bit is that the plate covers 2 screws which hold the Diff. Removing the front diff will be now a bit more work. But I think the design of the plate can be changed. If not, a knife will do the job.. Actually, the diff housing screws aren’t covered, they are replaced with slightly longer screws that go through the repair plate and into the original holes. No extra work other than a couple of extra turns on the screwdriver. ive fitted this to both cars, even though one was not damaged, as the extra reinforcement will only help, I think/hope. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lone-wolf Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Hi guys, been a while since i posted in the thread, but might be making a return, so some questions on the Brushed vantage model if i may: The project is a new speed runner, vantage with brushless conversion running 2.2 road wheels So here goes....i plan on using 3660 3300kv motor, surpass 60amp esc and 3s lipo, i guess this will all fit in, lipo is fine Is it worth getting 48DP 74t acetal spur and 26tooth pinion? does the vantage handle and steer decent enough, i did find steering pretty good on the carnage any idea of the kind of speed i might get with this set up? i would plan on upgrading esc and motor at later date if all goes well 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jens Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) 40 minutes ago, Ant.p said: Actually, the diff housing screws aren’t covered, they are replaced with slightly longer screws that go through the repair plate and into the original holes. No extra work other than a couple of extra turns on the screwdriver. ive fitted this to both cars, even though one was not damaged, as the extra reinforcement will only help, I think/hope. You are right. My statement was based on the pictures and I was wrong. After checking the car only the 2 alignment pins are covered. Edited March 13, 2021 by Jens Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ant.p Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 19 minutes ago, Jack Reacher said: Hi guys, been a while since i posted in the thread, but might be making a return, so some questions on the Brushed vantage model if i may: The project is a new speed runner, vantage with brushless conversion running 2.2 road wheels So here goes....i plan on using 3660 3300kv motor, surpass 60amp esc and 3s lipo, i guess this will all fit in, lipo is fine Is it worth getting 48DP 74t acetal spur and 26tooth pinion? does the vantage handle and steer decent enough, i did find steering pretty good on the carnage any idea of the kind of speed i might get with this set up? i would plan on upgrading esc and motor at later date if all goes well www.radio control info.com will give a good indication to max possible speed. Doesn’t take into account wind drag or any imperfections on the ground that may slow you down, but generally a good starting point to play around with options before making decisions. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.