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matto

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Hi chaps.

Can anyone throw any light on this latest problem i have.

Finally got the engine to start consistantly,i fitted a new carb and the engine runs quite nicely while sitting on the ground but as soon as you pull the trigger it just cuts out and doesnt move an inch,however if you lift it off the ground it will rev to full throttle no problem and all the wheels will spin at high speed.Could it be the clutch?

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Sounds like a tuning issue to me doubt it will be the clutch if it was worn out it would not engage so no reason why it would make it stall. Plus You don't want to free rev the engine to high it's not good for it.

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Sounds like a tune issue to me also. If you tip the car to the side is there in burnt fuel our the pipe? See it could be too rich, my bet or it could be too lean. I'd lean it out a whole turn to see if it still does it, then richness accordingly. I'm new to this game, so don't take my word as gospel.

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tuning - NOT CLUTCH

There is this thing call underload (on its wheels) and Noload - on a block or in the air

When its Noload the engine is able to spin up easily - Kind of masking the Rich tune

Hence why you NEVER tune on a block, its 1 sure way for piston seizure too

When the engine is underload, the engine isn't able to Generate power due to the tune, and since there is alot of resistance the combination means it just stalls

Ziggy

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first thing i would check mate is the clutch, sounds like a definate to me

+1 clutch. certainly the first thing i would check, more specifically the clutch spring/s may have broken. had same problem with a mt2 last month, was using the firestorm clutch on it, was fine on the box but cut out on the floor, turned out the spring had snapped and caused premature clutch application and hence stall when subject to weight of vehicle on ground

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matto.. make sure you put up whatever it is that solves the problem,, my money still on clutch issues,,

i had same problem twice ( over time ) on my hyper 8 and both times it was the clutch,, 1st time was snapped spring,, 2nd was bearing failure

Edited by dazj10
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Had the exact same issue recently with a .28 engine tried for days to resolve it. Turned out to be the fuel ! Dropped in a tank of 25% and it was cured instantly. I was previously trying to run 16%.

Can you borrow some fuel of anyone or buy a Litre to trst

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Thanks chaps for all your comments,had a quick bash earlier. Just fiddled with the LSN and the trims on the controller and the best i could get it to do was walking pace at full throttle. The wheels do not spin when on a block at idle but fly at full throttle.I have been using 16% fuel but do have a litre of 25% which i have not tried yet,does the higher % fuel (25 etc) have more oil content than a lower % fuel? The new clutch should be here by the weekend so will have a go with that when i get chance,now the weather is getting better id rather be out playing in my full sized sports car rather than my sons RC nitro,but he has really been disapointed with this model,it was a xmas pressie and he wanted an electric but i thought id go one better and got him a nitro instead....begining to wonder :) lol

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the best i could get it to do was walking pace at full throttle.

Was the engine revving quite high when going at walking pace?

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be happy its probably just a clutch spring...change them out for any pair used before you buy...the gx15 engines are notorious pieces of cr4p...ive had 3 of those fazers of the last year, one ok, one problems with compression, one duff, all brand new/unused...i actually still have one waiting to be run in, may actually try to run it for a while...as the the gx15 engines build quality on a line of the engines specifically piston/sleeve called in to question causing large degree of tightness at tdc and in some cases not allowing engine to turn over...can be sorted but maybe not by newbies but thats the market the car was aimed at, but good news is even if people cant sort it piston/sleeves set from 20 quid these days so not too bad...anyway back to problem you have, change out the springs (you only need 2) and see if that helps...its unlikely you will have burnt the clutch out while the car was standing on a shelf so unless there were similar problems on its last run, you should be fine with just springs

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New clutch came today,so i whipped the engine out,removed the bell housing from the clutch and to my surprise,it looks just the same as the brand new one,no ware what so ever,springs and everything look fine so im back to sqaure one.Will have another go running it tomoz,i cant see it just being a tuning issue but.......lol

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