bashville

I have been using Losi micro rally cars for kids parties but have found parts hard to come by recently. The cars are bulletproof and I've not needed anything for a couple of years, but now I that I wanted to sharpen up the cars a bit, I'm finding that basic parts such as wheels/tyres/diff parts are unavailable. Not sure what has been going on but see similar problems on the forum for other makes. Anyway, I was thinking of changing the fleet to Carismas, the i20 looks great, but can't seem to find that for sale now either! Nor parts. Are there any micros (1/24-1/28, as nothing else fits on Kyosho 50 tracks) with good parts support that run brushless and 2.4ghz?

looking to buy a set of firmer springs as stock are quite soft. Any links as to what is available as hotbodies part seem to be few and far between. From what i can see, the springs are a bit wider than those on the hpi savage 3.5 which i also own.

I interested in setting up a multi car lap counting system on my mini-z track. I have searched the net and have come up with the kyosho ic system and I-lap from the states. The Kyosho looks great except I can't find it for sale in the UK and can't find much comment on it either. As for the I-lap system, the web site explains how it works and it seems impressive but its the same boat as far as real feedback is concerned. Are there are clubs that are running these systems and can any of the members involved be good enough to comment of the quality of the set ups? Also if there is anything else that works well or better and is UK sourced, I'd love to hear about it.

need a bit of help on using the failsafe as bought one of these recently secondhand. there is a set up button on it and the failsafe does react when the radio is switched off but ive had to reverse the servos and need to change the brake position.

6v is fine for a nimh pack, no need to go lower. when its down to that its lost any useful charge it had and while nimhs have less problems with memory, you certainly won't have using that method. Charge them at no more than around 4 amps otherwise they are going to get very hot and if used straight away will be "kept on boil" by discharge of use in car and you will significantly shorten their useful life. You don't want to see more than about 45 degrees when charging.

looks like an hpi rs4, an evo 3 onwards, thats missing a couple of bits, can see receiver box missing for a start. dont think the head is an hpi one, certainly not a t15 and quite sure not a t3.0 from memory so engine may be from something else although not 100% sure as only working from memory as dont have the cars infront of me.

http://www.hpieurope.com/instructions.php?lang=en&partNo=101400 the numbers are gave are for pins which are held by e-clips on both side, the link where you can download the manual is above

its all there mate, its the 70 meg file, thats the complete manual. if you mean the pins holding the arms to the chassis and not the hub, then they are 101300 for the rear arms and 101299 for the front. i googled it and came up with the french manual.

go to hpiracing.co.uk and download the pdf manual for the car and you will find it in there

try checking that the servo is firmly plugged in by unplugging and plugging back it, if its a 27mhz unit you may get interference when the transmitter is close to the car.

make sure that the carb is open slightly when trying to blow fuel down it, it unlikely after a few days that the carb or fuel tank will have got gunked up with old fuel, but check them. to check the carb attach a tube directly to it and try blowing down it with the carb slightly open, you should hear a hissing sound if all is ok, which means it will allow fuel to pass through.

that motor is too powerful for the ansmann esc for a start. you are going to blow it probably the first time you put it in a car and give it some welly unless its going in a very light car such as a tenth scale which sort of would be overkill anyway. it could be the motor is trying to draw more power than the esc can handle, i would certainly not pair the two up in a car, its asking for trouble. check that the rotor spins freely, there could be a fault with the motor on top on that.

the rs4 mt is a different chassis and uses a motor plate mounted in line with the main belt as per the layout in the hpi sprint. the plate in the rs4 mt isnt bolted to the chassis but to a bulkhead which is bolted to the chassis. so its not going to be an easy fit if at all possible. i would try to use an existing hpi/hot bodies mount such as for the cyclone tc series car, you should be able to fit it to the rs4 nitro chssis you have, possibly drilling a couple of holes in the chassis to line up the plate. it may need a brace on top to stop it flexing but it depends on the usage, power of motor.

you will need to remove the two-speed as you no longer will be running a centrifugal clutch system to take the slack on gear changes, you could damage the motor if not strip gears as its too light to cause that kind of damage and will just wheel spin instead. If you ran a slipper clutch system you may be able to get away with the two speed but I cant say I have seen it done in an rs4 to be honest, so thats just a theory. a lot of people will say go get a sprint they are cheap enough, but i know thats not the point here.

i dont like those ezstarts, i was sorting a 4tec recently, first thing i did was bin that rubbish along with those cables and fitted a pullstart. much easier to get the engine going especially if its still tight, which is a receipe for strippded ezstart internal gears.