wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Hello Guys, Hope someone can help. I've recently brought a HPI Trophy 3.5 off ebay (used). I'm having a few problems getting it started again - I have started it once and I gave it a 5 min run up and down the road and it seemed ok. Tweeked the highend needle a bit but it ran ok after. I've come to start it this afternoon and for some reason I can't get it to start It's fitted with a drillstart, the drill was not supplied with it, so i'm using a normal drill which managed to get it running previously. I have: Ensured it is primed and fuel is in the fuel linechecked the glow plug and stick and everything looks okReset all screws back to factory settings (flush according to the Manual - high end, low end and ideal)Still wont start. My only thoughts are that maybe the drill isn't quick enough, but i'm not sure how quick it needs to be, otherwise not sure what it could be? Any advice? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredeye Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Hi , I'm no expert as I'm starting out myself , but I have found my trophy won't start if not primed enough. I have been pulling away at the pullstart for 5 mins plus before , pumped a bit more fuel in and away it goes , also try changing the glow plug for a new one . I'm sure the more experienced forum members will give some more tips.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Hi , I'm no expert as I'm starting out myself , but I have found my trophy won't start if not primed enough. I have been pulling away at the pullstart for 5 mins plus before , pumped a bit more fuel in and away it goes , also try changing the glow plug for a new one . I'm sure the more experienced forum members will give some more tips.. I'm pretty sure it's primed ok. I will double check that though. What do your needles look like? Are they roughly flush? Not too keen on the drillstart, may replace it with a pullstart when I can get one. Any other advice would be great. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredeye Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) My lsn is flush and my hsn is sunk in a tiny bit ( just under 3 turns from closed ) but that is where I have tuned it to , flush on the hsn is correct for that engine , also make sure your carb gap is open at least 1mm with the throttle at neutral .. Would strongly reccomend you try a new plug as even if it glows it may be no good. New pullstarts are available from modelsport , if not I've seen them on eBay , will cost you about Edited May 7, 2011 by superredeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 My lsn is flush and my hsn is sunk in a tiny bit ( just under 3 turns from closed ) but that is where I have tuned it to , flush on the hsn is correct for that engine , also make sure your carb gap is open at least 1mm with the throttle at neutral .. Would strongly reccomend you try a new plug as even if it glows it may be no good. New pullstarts are available from modelsport , if not I've seen them on eBay , will cost you about Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamodabest Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Try heating up the engine with a hair dryer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) Right, i've been out and tried all the suggestions to no avail. Ensured it was primed + a bit extra. Checked glow plug was lighting up. Tried a hairdryer (even though it's not really that cold) Ensured there is a 1mm gap in the carb. It seems very close to starting for doesn't kick off, I took a short video here: I would have thought the drill spins pretty quick compared to the small ones you buy for RC cars. I dunno. Any suggestions? Thanks. -Edit- One thing I will try is this that I read on the HPI forum when googling it "sounds like you just are not priming it properly. i find opening the carp to full throttle then blocking the exhaust will get fuel through ALOT easier as there is a big opening for the air to escape, then close back to idel and start it up. i have used this methord with all of my cars. (9 engine in total) and it has hasnot failed me yet... my last two engines a STS 28, and LRP 30 both started first pull for running in." - Worth a try. Edited May 7, 2011 by wwfc_barmy_army Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredeye Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 Have you tried opening the carb a little - 1/4 ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Have you tried opening the carb a little - 1/4 ? I did try opening it a little more, not quite 1/4 tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superredeye Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) Ok, maybe Next step would be change plug for new one , even though it might glow it dosnt mean it's ok , I learnt this with my first nitrio car , was pulling my hair out as to why it wouldn't start and the glow plug would glow , i put a new plug in and it started first time :-) Edited May 7, 2011 by superredeye Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 Sounds like the cheapest option to me Any suggestions: http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&_nkw=HPI+Glow+Plug&_sacat=See-All-Categories There are quite a few different ones! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spoonmeister Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 When you're cranking the engine over, trying to start it, are you blipping the throttle? If not, give it a go. Every so often you may hear a cackle as it tries to start - you just need to try and catch it at this point with enough throttle on and let the engine heat up and you should be good to go I'm no expert though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 When you're cranking the engine over, trying to start it, are you blipping the throttle? If not, give it a go. Every so often you may hear a cackle as it tries to start - you just need to try and catch it at this point with enough throttle on and let the engine heat up and you should be good to go I'm no expert though Hi Spoonmeister, That was one thing I tried after a while, but it didn't really make much difference tbh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 you say you adjusted the idle to factory settings ? take airfilter off and check theres a 1mm gap on the throttle slide with the brakes applied if not readjust the idle screw , replace airfilter and try starting it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 you say you adjusted the idle to factory settings ? take airfilter off and check theres a 1mm gap on the throttle slide with the brakes applied if not readjust the idle screw , replace airfilter and try starting it Hi Stormbringer, Yeah, I checked this and when the break is applied and it is a 1mm gap Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suthers Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 DID ANYONE AT ALL BOTHER TO WATCH THE VIDEO???? no, the drill needs to be going waaaay faster than that mate, the noise of the engine turning over should be heard a couple of times a second, like popopopopopopopopopopopopop, not pop..........pop............pop......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) DID ANYONE AT ALL BOTHER TO WATCH THE VIDEO???? no, the drill needs to be going waaaay faster than that mate, the noise of the engine turning over should be heard a couple of times a second, like popopopopopopopopopopopopop, not pop..........pop............pop......... I did question it but no one mentioned it Does anyone know a kind of speed it should actually be going? (as in terms of RPM kind of measurement ) If this is the case my next dilemma is, put back to pullstart or keep the roto start and get a new drill for it. Suggestions? Edited May 7, 2011 by wwfc_barmy_army Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suthers Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 i'd be guessing around 5000rpm, but i can't be sure to be honest. Will the drill not go any faster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 7, 2011 Author Share Posted May 7, 2011 (edited) i'd be guessing around 5000rpm, but i can't be sure to be honest. Will the drill not go any faster? No, thats full speed. It says it's 0-9000RPM - http://www.amazon.co...U/ref=de_a_smtd Whether it still goes that speed now i'm not sure. Could be be an issue with the plate? -Edit- IF I replaced with with a pull start, am I right in thinking I only need this part and not another bearing? http://www.wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/4470/ - What do people reckon Roto-start or Pullstart? Edited May 7, 2011 by wwfc_barmy_army Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suthers Posted May 7, 2011 Share Posted May 7, 2011 roto start helps when you arn't sure how to tune your engine to start easily every time, otherwise it's more hassle. Yes that pullstart should go straight on. Can you charge the drill to see if it goes any faster? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 roto start helps when you arn't sure how to tune your engine to start easily every time, otherwise it's more hassle. Yes that pullstart should go straight on. Can you charge the drill to see if it goes any faster? I'm pretty sure it was probably fully charged, but it's been on charge overnight now so i'll try this afternoon. Also, this maybe a newb question but this is the first time i've dealt with drillstarts, is it meant to have to turn the 'wrong' way. When I first got it took me a minute to realise I had to reverse the drill (anti clockwise) as if I was loosening a screw rather than tightening. Is this the correct way? And to go with this question, could there be an issue with the drillstart plate that means it doesn't turn as fast as it should or do you think it's just the drill? Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 8, 2011 Author Share Posted May 8, 2011 Bump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Suthers Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 I think it's the drill tbh, your flywheel on the engine should be going clockwise when your looking at the backplate, or anticlockwise if your staring at it from the front. I'd be suprised if it wouldn't go faster than that. Is there no speed adjustment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wwfc_barmy_army Posted May 9, 2011 Author Share Posted May 9, 2011 Hello suthers, Well I have to drill the 'wrong way'. So i'm not sure what that makes it lol. But never the less I have ordered a pull start so I will fit that and see how it goes any tips for fitting it? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rushevokid Posted May 9, 2011 Share Posted May 9, 2011 give it a little bit of throttle as your starting it and its a bit risky using the drill they have too much torque for the engine to handle good luck with getting it going REK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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