JamboV6 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 When you put it back in and centralised it did you have it powered up and the trim set to central on the tranny before fitting the horn? It's not uncommon for the horn to be a couple of degrees of tdc, the trim on the tranny should only need a little tweeks to bring it back, I don't use the Hpi tranny on mine but use it on my sons maverick no problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 5 minutes ago, JamboV6 said: When you put it back in and centralised it did you have it powered up and the trim set to central on the tranny before fitting the horn? It's not uncommon for the horn to be a couple of degrees of tdc, the trim on the tranny should only need a little tweeks to bring it back, I don't use the Hpi tranny on mine but use it on my sons maverick no problem Yep, did all that. This photo doesn't show it very well but if you look at the quadrant which I think is also the servo saver, it's straight and therefore so is the steering. But (again it's not clear in the photo) the horn is off centre. It's leaning to the left of the picture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 19 minutes ago, BoutTime said: Ok so the servo is in and working great. But it will probably be coming out again. I probably should have gone with my hunch but would be interested on the thoughts of everyone else.... I was told on the phone to centre the servo to line up the horn vertically. The problem is when the steering is centred on all three cars the horn is actually off centre itself. So my intent was to install one tooth from 12 o'clock. But I didn't. I was hoping there would be enough play in the servo adaptors to slide the servo sideways to compensate. Now it's all in, to get the car to run straight I have to apply quite a bit of trim on the transmitter. And the transmitter will trim the wheels much more one way compared to the other. I just wondered what everyone else does when replacing a servo on a Firestorm. Cheers. Your first instinct was correct, slightly off centre. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamboV6 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 You can pop off that turnbuckle (the connecting rod between the horn and servo saver arm) and lengthen it slightly that will compensate for the offset Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 4 minutes ago, JamboV6 said: You can pop off that turnbuckle (the connecting rod between the horn and servo saver arm) and lengthen it slightly that will compensate for the offset Can I? I did wonder that as it looks like it's done up tight and wasn't sure whether it was there for adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamboV6 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) Yeah, but I'd unscrew it fully first and just check the length of the thread as it's quite short. One full turn should give you the adjustment you need, if you need any more you might need to swap the screw inside to a longer one first. Edited March 1, 2018 by JamboV6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 2 minutes ago, JamboV6 said: Yeah, but I'd unscrew it fully first and just check the length of the thread as it's quite short. One full turn should give you the adjustment you need, if you need any more you might need to swap the screw inside to a longer one first. If I'm going to pop the turnbuckle off I may as well just take the servo out again and move the horn one spline. The screw supplied with the servo is different to the one fitted at the factory. It has a much coarser thread and a Philips head. I used it as the thread was already cut in the servo shaft and I didn't want to risk stripping it. The thread is probably more suited to nylon to be honest. So the servo has to come out to get on the head with as screwdriver. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamboV6 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Sorry I was referring to the screw thread inside the turnbuckle, it is two ball cups, one either end with a grubscrew connecting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 25 minutes ago, JamboV6 said: Sorry I was referring to the screw thread inside the turnbuckle, it is two ball cups, one either end with a grubscrew connecting them. Yeah I knew what you meant. Was just making the point about the screw as not sure why they would be different. The shaft on the new servo is a different material as its grey and seems a little harder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 Adjusted the horn earlier. It's better but because I slid the servo itself over earlier on the side adapters to compensate it's gone a little the other way now. But it's good enough and I am able to trim sufficiently in both directions using the transmitter. Just more one way than the other. Thanks for the advice everyone. I appreciate you taking the time to help out an RC novice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamboV6 Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 We were all there once and some never had the net, so it's nice to be able to help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted March 1, 2018 Author Share Posted March 1, 2018 34 minutes ago, BoutTime said: Thanks for the advice everyone. I appreciate you taking the time to help out an RC novice. Thats exactly what this thread is for, also have a read of the first post if you haven't already 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Managed to get out in the last of the snow yesterday. Obviously I aimed for that gap in the bench at the end of the vid 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 After tinkering with my sons' cars over the last few days I can see me adding a few bits and pieces to mine sooner than I first thought. Nice vid everclear. Have you ever watched the Dude Perfect RC episodes on youtube? They drive a Traxxas across a lake! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 50 minutes ago, BoutTime said: After tinkering with my sons' cars over the last few days I can see me adding a few bits and pieces to mine sooner than I first thought. Nice vid everclear. Have you ever watched the Dude Perfect RC episodes on youtube? They drive a Traxxas across a lake! I've seen a few of their vids. What parts are you getting tempted to add/change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 I've seen a few of their vids. What parts are you getting tempted to add/change?Probably brushless motor and ESC. Not immediately required. But can see it happening. I like the idea of being able to program the ESC to with regards to punch and drag brake too. The previous version ESC fitted to the Firestorm appeared to offer this facility but I don't think the new ones do. Rear bumper too. As it's early days in ownership I have no idea what I'd benefit from.Once the suspension arm on the third one is fixed we'll get out and about for a good thrash around.Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) don't be tempted by alloy bits, seriously all the fs needs is tbone bumpers and your away. Some people fit the ese rod ends if they have them popping off all the time but thats it. Edited March 2, 2018 by stretch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) 9 minutes ago, stretch said: don't be tempted by alloy bits, seriously all the fs needs is tbone bumpers and your away. Some people fit the ese rod ends if they have them popping off all the time but thats it. It's why I followed everyone's advice when they recommended the Firestorm. I was orinally going for x2 Brushed and x1 Brushless FTX Carnages. But I'm told they need loads of mods to get them robust enough. Whereas the Firestorms are tough out of the box. Other than the suspension arm my son broke hitting a wall (very hard), they do seem like they can take a beating. So it will probably just be rear bumpers for all three cars and brushless combo for mine when I get used to the car more. Very impressed with their ability in the snow. As long as we kept them moving they plowed through nicely. By the time we finished the two cars we were using were filled with snow and still working fine. Our neighbour's son came out with an old 4WD Maverick he's had for years and it stopped working after a short time. Edited March 2, 2018 by BoutTime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stretch Posted March 2, 2018 Author Share Posted March 2, 2018 Ftx don't come close to the fs. The front bumper has saved me loads of times as it partly covers the arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Ftx don't come close to the fs. The front bumper has saved me loads of times as it partly covers the arms.I may have mentioned already, but I fitted RPM front bumpers as I wanted them on there before they were driven for the first time. So will maybe get the TBone rears.Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ostewart Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 (edited) 2 hours ago, BoutTime said: I may have mentioned already, but I fitted RPM front bumpers as I wanted them on there before they were driven for the first time. So will maybe get the TBone rears. Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk Its worth getting the T-bone front ones too, much better than the RPM ones... I bent a few stock turnbuckles, doing backflips off ramps. So I've got titanium turnbuckles with ESE rod ends, and T-bone bumpers. I have got RPM rear hubs as they take a slightly bigger bearing, but they are not necessary. Obviously in not running any stock electrics though as I bought mine as a used roller. Edited March 2, 2018 by ostewart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 18 hours ago, BoutTime said: Sorry about the quote, stupid forum keeps repeating my last post and won't let me delete it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoutTime Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 Sorry about the quote, stupid forum keeps repeating my last post and won't let me delete it.No worries. Any tools/tool kits or spares storage you can recommend? Good bang for buck?Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 The Firestorm got new bearings throughout today. The 2 screws under the chassis that hold the gearbox had rounded so they got replaced (after much swearing while trying to remove them!) and I had to cut away the rear camber link because of the way it's designed, so that also got replaced. While replacing the gearbox bearings I found this all chewed up I remember putting it back together last time I changed the bearings and thinking to myself, that'll need replacing before I bash it again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
everclear1984 Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 21 minutes ago, BoutTime said: No worries. Any tools/tool kits or spares storage you can recommend? Good bang for buck? Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk Boxes like these with removable partitions are great for spares. This is just the first one I found, I paid about £5 for mine from Buyology. https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-sort-master-organiser/73900?tc=QT2&ds_kid=92700022885049840&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249481&gclid=CjwKCAiArOnUBRBJEiwAX0rG_frJZLEBUHHF7xjVgWPFfdIVIItzYIodg1ySssemu3ShX6p4jG57oxoCipoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CMD9truu0NkCFYa3GwodyVQA5A I use this bag for transporting my Firestorm, it's big enough for car, my spares box, tools, transmitter, Lipos and a temp gun with room to spare. I've had mine for over a year and there's no much as a loose stitch. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-vehicle-hauler-backpack.html?___store=en_us Tools, I bought a set of Turnigy hex drivers and just replaced the tips with Arrowmax ones as they wore out. The handles are nice to hold. I'm on my way out the door so don't have time to find the link for them but it's these ones - 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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