Zombi Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 (edited) The deed is done, I'm now in the SCX-10 scale club. I've gone with the Dingo kit for a few reasons, including the crazy low price, because I wanted to build a kit, and because I didn't want the stock electronics from an RTR. I learned a lot from my Yeti build, and with that in mind applied some of those lessons right from the off with a couple of small upgrades for the initial build. I'll keep the specification listed out here on the first page as it grows.Tekin FX-R ESCTekin T-30 Pro Hand Wound 540 Brushed MotorSavox SW-1210SG ServoSpektrum SRS4210 4 Channel RXCastle 10amp BECMIP C-Drive Spline CVD kit for Axial AX10SSD 1.9 Assassin WheelsOttsix Voodoo KLR tyres (silver)Hot Racing Hardened Steel Light Weight Transmission GearsRobinson Racing 87T Super Spur GearRobinson Racing 12T PinionCrawler Innovations Deuce's Wild Foams Axial Front UniversalsLoaded Ox Brass Beef TubesLoaded Ox 4-link Servo Mount Yeah Racing ShacklesPull Pal RW-60 Land AnchorHeyOK! RX Switch (lights)RC4WD WARN 9.5cti WinchRC4WD Winch ControllerRC4WD WARN Premium Winch HookRC4WD WARN Hawse FairleadRC4WD Tough Armour Wide BumperRCOffroad.eu Aluminium Sand Ladder Vanquish C-Hubs Vanquish 8 Degree Knuckles Vanquish Titanium Drag Link SetAxial Light Bar SetPro-line Powerstroke Scaler Shocks I went with Tekin and Savox again simply because of how their gear has performed in my Yeti. Plus with the Tekin ESC, I already have the Hotwire link to configure it to how I want it. The MIP spline is indeed for the AX10, and I'll explain more about that when I come to do the install. The car itself arrives Wednesday with a bunch of other stuff, but some pics of what I've already received to follow shortly... Most recent picture here: Edited January 31, 2016 by Zombi 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 22, 2015 Author Share Posted June 22, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RC4WD fan Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 welcome to the club can't go wrong with a scx10 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_d_fox Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Assuming you're running this from Lipos, what cell are you looking at? Only reason i ask is that while looking for a new motor to replace my burnt out 35T Novak i was recommended to move to 3s but to drop down to a 16 or 17t pinion if running an 87t spur. To compensate that i'm going to be running the same 30t motor as you have now but have also moved up to a 90t spur with the 17t pinion on 3s. This apparently should give me the ideal final ratio for the motor / esc to run cool but the wheel speed from the 30t and 3s. Its all too technical for my old brain to fully understand but came from the guys behind Holmes and Team Brood motors so i'm comfortable in their knowledge. Other than that, lovely spec mate... you going D90 or something else with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 30t motor on 3s and a 16/17t pinion will be a bit much, unless all you want is wheel speed. I run a 27t Axial motor on an 18t pinion and 2s and that's a really nice combination of wheel speed and torque. But I'm using the HW 1060 ESC. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 I'll be running it on 3S. I saw your comments before on gearing on FB. After that I did some hefty research on RCC.com and learned that the combo I've selected for electronics and gearing (87t spur and 20t pinion) will give good wheel speed for ascents and plenty of torque to crawl. The SCX10 is all new to me remember, so I'm far from an expert on such things (yet!), and thus there's going to be a large portion of trial and error for me. I'll try the 20T pinion, and if it's too fast i'll drop it down some. There's only one way to find these things out, and that's to give it a whirl. So we shall see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 3s on a 20t pinion will be silly wheel speed for an SCX10 IMO. 3s would be okay using about a 13/14t perhaps. I put a 3s in mine with a less powerful ESC, 87t spur and 17t pinion and it was stupid for an SCX10 lol. Give it a test though it might actually be what you're after, just bare in mind a lot of Americans set theirs up to hit stuff hard lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Well with that in mind, I might get another couple of pinions on order from LRC now then. I don't want it to be crazy fast, it's certainly not the point of me buying it. Thanks for the heads up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) Yeah I would matey, or even consider just running it on 2s. Mine runs at a nice jogging pace with a 27t motor on 2s with 17t pinion so if you're running a 20t pinion it should be close to the same on 2s. Completely your choice of course but I did try quite a few different options with mine and 3s was just too much. I'd also strongly recommend some Axial CVD's and alu hubs/knuckles, you probably already know but it really improves the turning circle Edited June 23, 2015 by Oh How Original Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 if your going to be running mip`s grab a rebuild kit as they like to fall apart even when you use the thread lock they supply and tell you to use oh and getextra pins for them aswell the ones that hold the top to the male or female shaft peice as they also like to break espacially if your goping tobe running 3s lipo`s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Yeah I would matey, or even consider just running it on 2s. Mine runs at a nice jogging pace with a 27t motor on 2s with 17t pinion so if you're running a 20t pinion it should be close to the same on 2s. Completely your choice of course but I did try quite a few different options with mine and 3s was just too much. I'd also strongly recommend some Axial CVD's and alu hubs/knuckles, you probably already know but it really improves the turning circle Ah yes forgot to mention that Banners is sorting me out with some front unis - he's my hero As for the knuckles, i think he might be bunging me some "High Clearance" ones too. Not sure, as I say it's all new to me! In time I imagine this thing will be as upgraded as my Yeti though - urgh! if your going to be running mip`s grab a rebuild kit as they like to fall apart even when you use the thread lock they supply and tell you to use oh and getextra pins for them aswell the ones that hold the top to the male or female shaft peice as they also like to break espacially if your goping tobe running 3s lipo`s Well I run a MIP on my Yeti and have had not a single issue with it, despite hammering it for 7+ months now. I've heard the gel that comes with them sucks so I won't be using it, I'll be using my trusty blue Loctite that's tried and tested. And yeah, when looking into this the bods on RCC suggest that the AX10 MIPs are the best one for the Dingo. All you need is Traxxas part number 5145, the pins you mention, so you don't have to use the grub screws that come with the MIP kit. And naturally, I have these on order and will arrive with the car tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mini-z-awd Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) Ah yes forgot to mention that Banners is sorting me out with some front unis - he's my hero As for the knuckles, i think he might be bunging me some "High Clearance" ones too. Not sure, as I say it's all new to me! In time I imagine this thing will be as upgraded as my Yeti though - urgh! Well I run a MIP on my Yeti and have had not a single issue with it, despite hammering it for 7+ months now. I've heard the gel that comes with them sucks so I won't be using it, I'll be using my trusty blue Loctite that's tried and tested. And yeah, when looking into this the bods on RCC suggest that the AX10 MIPs are the best one for the Dingo. All you need is Traxxas part number 5145, the pins you mention, so you don't have to use the grub screws that come with the MIP kit. And naturally, I have these on order and will arrive with the car tomorrow i run the traxxas pins on mine they do need some shaving down and a bit cutting of the end but way better than the grub screw`s and the ax10 ones will also work with the honcho length aswell thats what mine are fitted on and i wasnt talking about that pin i was talking about these pins sorry didnt say it better i`ve broke two of them so far luckily i had a rebuild kit handy so i changed it overhttp://miponline.com/store/mip10142.html and the high clearance knuckles work way better than stock i fitted them a few month ago and noticed a big differnece with mine Edited June 23, 2015 by mini-z-awd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Ok thanks for the input - duly noted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noj Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 ....and so it begins.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Some more goodies arrived today. And after what was said above, I've ordered 12T, 14T and 16T RR pinions from LiquidRC - for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 A question to anyone using an FXR or something similar - what gauge wire do you guys use from ESC to battery? The solder posts are pretty small and i think 12 AWG will struggle. The set came with 14 AWG, but i'm assuming that's just for ESC to motor... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 12awg would be fine mate. 14 as you say is for ESC to motor but you could directly solder it all and just use 12awg throughout. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Ok I'll see what's what when I start putting it all together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Sorry only just noticed you're needing to use something smaller lol. 14AWG will be okay for it all bud, but I'm sure 12 will fit 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Aye I'll be going 14 all around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dark Knight Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) Have you considered 13g? It's a good compromise, I've been using it on all my rc's lately apart from GT12 which I use 16g. After your Yeti build, I'll be following this with interest. Excellent choice in the Dingo kit too, it's the best value kit imo if you're wanting a kit to build and upgrade as you build. Edited June 24, 2015 by The Dark Knight 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Look what just arrived, the final pieces of the puzzle! I'm out with Banners this evening on a dusk bash, so the build will have to commence tomorrow methinks. I won't bore everyone with the details of each step of the build as i'm sure the SCX thing has been done to death already, so i'll just focus on the upgraded pieces only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zombi Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Other than that, lovely spec mate... you going D90 or something else with this? Forgot to answer this, apologies. Originally I wanted a Mojave full body kit, but it seems you can't get them now, not even in the US. So I'm going to stick with the Dingo for now and see how I get on with it. I'm going for a military feel to it I think, painting it with Tamiya polycarbonate PS9 green. I wanted to use the TS version Olive Drab, but I understand that anything other than the poly paints will crack and flake away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oh How Original Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Sucks about the Hilux bodies not being available anymore, that's quite surprised me actually as it was a very popular bodyset. If you're not already a member Mark, sign up to ScaleRC, it's not the most amazing forum, but you'll no doubt pick up a Hilux body there if you stick up a wanted ad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4rri75 Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Originally I wanted a Mojave full body kit, but it seems you can't get them now, not even in the US. Procure a loan of one, make a plug from it and make a vacuu-form machine to create your own? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.