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The Pink Panther:Clone Sakura D3 CS OP build.

Yoshimoto

By Yoshimoto
in On-Road & Drifting

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Yoshimoto

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My new chassis arrived today.

Heres my first impressions of the  Sakura D3 CS OP looks to be a clone of a chassis that never existed.

Its straight out of the box along with my selection of kit to outfit my new drift platform.

When i bought this i wasnt aware that it was a clone of 3 Racings D3 but now its here im not complaining,the machining is top notch and everything works as it should.I have tried to find the manufacturer but cant find any info as yet,Revolution Hobbies was my 1st stop but ive still drawn a blank.

Whats in the box? 

Well theres the pre assembled full alloy and carbon 3 belt drift specific chassis set,fully ballraced with spool diff's(solid diff's)front and rear,alloy threaded shocks,extreme angle CVD's,and a single belt tensioner for the rear belt,a couple of bags containing the front foam bumper,body posts,wheel hex's and various fasteners,4 bright green 10 spoke wheels and suitable angled type semi hard tyres premounted.The included shocks are threaded are bone dry-they diddnt feel it on first inspection :whistling: .Theres also a few other features that i like including the option of two positions for the cells,droop screws and the modified front arms-you may notice the extra machining on the leading edge of the arm as early reports from original equipment users showed up a bug which allowed many wheel sets to foul-well done copy cats-shame you couldnt do this mod before anodizing  :sly: not a biggie but perhaps a bit too 'factory' for some tastes.

It runs as standard an aproximate 2.14 cs ratio(I havnt done the math yet) and is a clone of 3 Racings full line up of all the options available for their D3 drift chassis but built on black carbon decks rather than silver graphite.

The only things missing in my mind are another belt tensioner for the main run of rubber,a front one way diff,a servo saver,titainium turnbuckles and a selection of pulleys for tuning and some firmer springs but i bought the FOW and tensioner before it arrived.

The fitted turnbuckles are the cheapest looking item on the whole thing-plain old steel-a minor oversight,but they ar not soft steel and do not mark easily.

 

Ive been over the car to check screws and components for tightness and alignment,scratches,manged fasteners,rough bearings,poorly fitting parts...nothing-zilch-nada-its been put together either by a very expensive robot or someone who knows how to put a model car together with good mechanical sympathy-im extremely impressed with the fit and finish,i cant really fault it   :yes:  :yes:  :yes: one thing worth mentioning is that the shocks although leak free could do with a little love and attention...they are not the best built and would certainly benifit from a rebuild using quality slime and possibly require a de-burr inside,well see during a closer inspection,which will be very soon,the front end needs stripped to fit the FOW so ill be taking the whole thing apart before going any further to oil all bearings,build the shocks how i want and just be sure that im happy with everything-seems daft that you really have to first of all strip a pre-built chassis before completing it,but no matter how impressed i am with it at this point i know for a fact that many critical fasteners have no threadlock on them so it will be worth while and pretty much a 'must do'

 

Anyway before i get onto the rest of the gear ill let some pics do the rest of the talking for now  :thumbsup: as im still drooling over my beautiful new chassis,it was so cheap i still cant beleive its so good for the money.

 

PS it really is that pink,and i love it  :yes:

Yoshi

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/26801-/

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/26802-/

 

 

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Stripped and sorted the bones of it and then loaded it with the rest of the gear.This version out of the box is 190mm wide  :xd:

Hall sensor cable is too short to reach so ill have to get one bought before i can even run the motor in it for the 1st time  :xd:

 

Really like the green wheeels-somehow diddnt fancy the yellow versions i thought it would have but these have grown on me and for that reason alone I think im going to get a 190mm shell to go with them  :thumbsup: 

Yoshi
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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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Hi again,

 

Because I'm a new member I can't reply to your PMs, so sorry for kind of spamming your thread.

 

I've found two different listings for what I presume is the same car being sold on eBay by Flying XYS. One has a thumbnail with the car sat on grey and silver wheels in front of a white background and one is the car on green/yellow wheels on a wooden table. Could you tell me what one you purchased please?

 

Also, what middle tensioner and FOW did you buy?

 

Cheers.

:)

 

ETA: Could you clear a few spaces in your inbox please?

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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Hi Sam E welcome to MSUK and get posting :thumbsup: ,cant link you  :thumbsup: but theres a few places in Hong Kong.

This one is a clone of 3's entire options for the D3 and not the real deal.

Ive used both wasp and XYS without any problems before.RC Mart obviously and Jazzhobby are favorites too for OEM 3 Racing.

It dont take long-mine was less than 7 days on DHL express.

Be warned though if this is your 1st RC drift you need to know that the car has a high 2.0 plus CS ratio as standard and might be a real challenge to be able to drive nice  :xd:  :yes: but im impressed with the quality-fully adjustable for everything its a really nice chassis to own.

Turns out its 190mm not 200mm,doesnt come with a servo saver,battery straps,instructions,oil for the shocks,pinion or a nice box-and theres not a lot of reviews or info that i can find out there  :yucky: its a 3Racing clone-a copy model  :yes: Its most deffo a pro car though-without a doubt.

It really deserves a set up bench for getting the best from it in my mind and a good selection of tyres oils/springs is probably a given.

Best 120 youll ever spend on a drift car though  :thumbsup:

 

Going to look at the wiring,main motor needs trimming to fit nice,im tempted to replace them altogether with some trick colored stuff but the speedo is new.....?

The shocks have surprised me-they have built up into really smooth and leak free units and really finish the chassis.I wasnt sure at first,the feel given by a completely dry shock from new isnt inspiring but they went to gether well with minimum fuss 1st time  :thumbsup: and feel like real quality units.

 

When the car comes out the box the toe and camber settings,pully tension front and rear,ride height all need setting.All fasteners need checked for tightness/thread lock and all component assemblies need to be given the once over.

 

Yoshi
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Yoshimoto

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Drove it just now...Yess  :thumbsup:  very smooth-1st run on man made tiles in a very tight space with excellent throttle feedback and accurate slow speed control :yes:  :thumbsup:  :yes: im buzzing now and cant wait to run it outside.

I moved the ESC closer to the front to get the hall sensor cable to reach-its not ideal,it is free of moving parts....but its close through the front arm assembly.

The Flightmax Zippy cells balanced perfectly on 1st charge,and fitted the carbon cradle nicely.Tried some elastic bands to steady the cells but ended up using some odd velcro i had lying around.First off i ran the car for 5 minutes on a stand with no wheels,just to be sure everything was right and to bed it in gently-all was well-belts seem stable,its silent through full lock to lock,and a fair bit smoother turning it over by the spur gear too after this initial bed in.

Ran it in a very tight area of around 5'x25 lino tiled.Never had to use more than 1/3rd throttle,the first thing that jumped out at me was how smooth the throttle was,brilliant low speed modulation.The car was happy to pivot around both front tyres on command as well as never feel as though it would run out of steering-im very impressed with the first run  :yes: 

The BlueBird servo performs flawlessly-crisp and sure and very quiet-cant detect any play at horn,helps with the decent voltage put out by the Reventon R.it never felt slow to steer and had a very smooth transition through a very wide range of angles and i can say that the front one way made its difference felt...it made the 4WD behave somewhat like a RWD when turning and the large CS can be felt on the throttle with exactly corresponding tail angles and a planted front.

I chose the 45w oil as thats all i had-it worked.It turned on the throttle and the steering without hesitation being very easy to control in a tight space.

This set up holds great promise for larger areas :yes: 

Tried 12-13mm F to R ride height first,then went 9-10,took all but the smallest amount of neg camber out front and rear(this will save you watching the tyres take a new shape as they wear the shoulders down to give a full contact patch again) Added aprox 2.5 degrees neg toe front and im stuck with the 3 deg pos on rear.

 

I wasnt sure how id like the 2 cs but its very intuitive-if you can drive youll be fine i just discovered its not an issue  :yes: 

 

Ah the charger is calling me......Yoshi

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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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I'm not too fussed if it's a copy, the chassis being black carbon instead of white did hint it. As long as genuine 3 Racing parts fit I'm happy because it seems a hell of a car for the money.

ETA: Do you know whether this come with the wide angle drive shafts as standard? I know they won't be genuine but it saves me buying some.

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Yoshimoto Enthusiast

Yoshimoto

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sam the CVD's are flawless and will remain quiet and smooth right to the lockstops no prob's  :thumbsup: i think these are the same spec as the extreme items.

Spent some time with the Reventon and its software tonight and finally managed to get everything talking to each other-so took the opportunity to load up the drift specific firmware and set a low voltage cut off 

Yoshi.

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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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Sounds good mate, SP stuff is among the best. I think I'm going to go with a Gen 1 Tekin 13.5 paired with a SP Turismo 2 ESC. I run a Turnigy 21.5 in my GT12 so might see how much a 10.5/13.5 is.

Cheers.

:)

ETA: A 10.5t is a smidge under

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Yoshimoto

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Ordered some rims today along with a longer sensor cable to get my ESC where i want it.

Once i had started thinking about wheel offsets and body/chassis widths it took me a good while before i was confident in my final choices blink.png im thinking that a pair of 6mm and 9mm offsets should be right for the 200mm Supra.
HPIGramLightes.jpg

Went for these gunmetal and chrome Rays Gram lights 57's Pro's...so should go well with whatever paint job i end up doing.

The damn car keeps winking at me every time i see it wassat.png i think im going to have to put it out of sight until either A it stops raining or B its actually finished as i dont want to run the shiney new carbon chassis over tarmac without some protection over it grin.png i did consider gaffa tape but after a quick hunt round it seems it has been Daughtered/lost or stolen dizzy.png again !!!
I need another build to help keep my mind off it cheerful.png cheerful.png cheerful.png

Oh! was as that the postman?.....  :yucky: no.
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Yoshimoto

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Its getting there-T drifts arrived along with the new 12AWG wire-hopefully the chassis protection vinyl,sensor lead and wheels will be here today.

Painted a fresh shell last night and im quite pleased with it.

This is the first time ive used a Tamiya flip and although not as in your face as some of the other brands it gives a very classy finish with very good reaction to light  :yes:

Im still liking the Pandora Nissan Sunny too but 38 quid  :shockingscary: Hmmm....

 
The HPI emblem has got to go  :yucky:
 
Yoshimoto
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He he..3 minutes after the last update the postie brought most of the essentials  :yes:  :yes:  :yes:

I mounted the stock angled boots to the new rims for now-they are a little softer than the T Drifts and i have some set-up time with them.The rims are a great fit for the shell and my guestimation of 9mm rear and 6mm front O/S was crack on.Mounted the numberplates too.Swapped out the plastic servo saver for a metal sprung one  :thumbsup:

The chassis was bare an hour ago so i fitted it out again with a tidier layout.

I made a antenna holder too and im much happier with the routing.

Although my bundle of baby and fluorescent pink wiring arrived i just couldnt bring myself to de-solder the SP ESC and colour code the whole car-perhaps another day.

The shell is all sorted but for some LED's that will have to wait for now and mounting-im torn between drilling for the stock posts or making/buying something that cant be seen...maybe stealth for shelf and posts for running.

Theres a few more bits on there way-a zero toe mount for the rear and some HD silver carbon vinyl to look after the underside and until the latter of these two arrive ill only be driving on carpet and lino  :xd:

 
Tarmac testing very soon  :yes:
Yoshimoto
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Sam E Newbie

Sam E

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That shell looks awesome mate. Hopefully my 190mm shell will be a bit wider than quoted. I bought it when I was using my TT01 and knowing the Tamiya is closer to 185ishmm got some 6mm offset TE37s, let's hope they fit OK.

 

Can I ask where you got your metal servo saver from?

 

Cheers.

:)

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Yoshimoto

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Thanks for the compliment Sam,The Supra is more street styled than drift but i like it  :thumbsup: the saver i have on now is a 3racing item,i think its stock in the D3,ooops ive binned the header card but its listed with D3 parts on the Bay and at 3R dealers.

Its not all metal but the plastics are high carbon content and it uses the tried and trusted 3 spring arrangement.The previous one i had fitted was an Xpress item that was fine but softer plastics and plastic spring too-no slop or anything-just basic  :thumbsup:

Yoshi

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Yoshimoto

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Sam i found the destructions for the saver-3RAC-SHAMU servo saver for Tamiya F104-but it is just a saver with the usual futaba/Sanwa fittings.

Have a look for 'large Kimbrough servo saver' or Trick bits-well respected items  :thumbsup:

Yoshi

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Yoshimoto

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Since i put this together after stripping it and putting everything at pretty much a std starting point ive started to add camber back into the front and rear.

Ive run it a couple of times but last night i removed another 1/2 a degree from the rears to see how it felt,i diddnt like it,traction was lacking in the drift instantly.

The reason i took most of the camber out in the first place was that my old 50/50 set up pretty much demanded zero camber front and rear to get it anything like,but this 50/107 arrangement demands lots of camber to keep good traction.

Ive put 6 on front and 4 out rear for starters,and ill see how it feels tomorrow-hopefully ill be able to try it on tarmac too  :yes:

Yoshi

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Yoshimoto

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All set for tarmac  :yes:  :yes:  :yes:

The Vinyl Rhino Hide arrived,got fitted and then it started raining  :xd:

Nice stuff to fit very pliable,will lift easily until activated with heat and does not leave creases when you crumple it and mess up-well chuffed  :thumbsup:

 Yoshimoto

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Yoshimoto

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Its not been raining/snowing so its been a case of tarmac-bench..tarmac-bench...tarmac-bench for most of the day  :yes:

 

The kit tyres are now scrubbed in and im getting much closer with my set-up  :thumbsup:

This is where im at for now...for now :whistling:

Shocks  F20w+R35w,springs F 1mm R 1.2mm with no internal limiting ive settled on around 5 F and 4 R for camber,2 neg toe on F and stock 3 neg R,the downstops were mercilessly backed off today to allow a much more pliable car and ride height for my rough-ish tarmac test area is around 10-12mm F to R.Its very close to where i feel i need the handling for me but im going to try some chassis weights tomorrow and see if i can get it feeling more planted.

 

As you know this is my 1st CS platform and i have to say it is not simply a case of getting a good set-up-you really have to drive these cars..its been quite cold today and by the time i knew what the next adjustment was going to be my fingers were getting numb and it was very easy to make the car spin out and lose rhythm completely  :xd:

 

By the late afternoon i had increased my speed to over half throttle and was getting a good feel for the car but the slightly rough tarmac was allowing the car to loose the rear end regularly on odd bits of stone or debris,so ill have a look at some strategically placed ballast next and hopefully start to get to grips with the car.

 

All in all a good days testing with real improvements-well chuffed  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:  :thumbsup:

 

Yoshi

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Yoshimoto

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There wasnt much driving today but there was some new bling :yes:

Although my center belt is holding together well with the Sakura Zero tensioner i did buy the V2 rear bulkhead as it looked like it would do a better job-and i was right-much more adjustment and in turn better peace of mind.

 

Another minor tweak that needed addressing was the rear wheel bearings.Ive seen this on one or two other manufacturers kits so wasnt surprised to have the same issue with this.

If you over tighten the wheel nuts you can feel the bearings get notchy-this was a common issue with non FT associated kits which required a spacer between the two bearings in the hub to prevent this.

I diddnt have enough shims to span the 1.8mm or so void so i removed the inner races from some old bearings i had and then used my flapper wheel to sand them down to the required length.I put the races on a spare idler shaft first to get a nice flat finish-all is good-gorilla grip wheel nut torque with no binding.

When i can get hold of some shims in bulk ill probably want to swap the spacers out,but for now this works fine  :thumbsup:

Yoshimoto

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