voorsk

I saw those, but they're for the 104001 - they're 85mm long. The 144001 front shocks are about 73mm. I've been looking at the other models, and I'm tempted to try the front shocks of a 124018, which are 72mm. 1mm can't make much difference, can it? edit: ordered the 124018 shocks. I'll let you know if they work out in a month or so. 😛

Does anyone know where to buy front shocks for a 144001 (part #1939)? All I can find are the rear shocks (part #1316), which I suppose might work with a spacer on the plunger thingy. I tried buying rear shocks from ebay, which claimed to be genuine and had the right photo, but they sent cheap versions, so now I don't know who to trust. 😕

It's not the same chassis. Maybe they're the same overall shape, but the Mauler/Rock Hammer appears to have a drilled chassis which looks like it could be adjusted in many ways, whereas the Trample is way more basic, with the stupid (almost) Autobot logo on it.. Mauler: Trample: They do look similar overall, but the Trample has more shock mount positions, and might be a little bit sturdier? I might also be a bit biased, coz I've ordered a Trample from AliExpress, and it's slowly making it's way to an airport at the moment. 🙄

i dunno.. every video I've seen of them have either been in normal car parks or being bashed in a skate park, so i wasn't sure where we should take them. 😛 turns out my son managed to damage his, somehow, even tho i was the one crashing and rolling all the time..

me and the boy took our 144001s out this afternoon. hard to find anywhere that wasn't plagued by dog walkers, so we ended up in the corner of a small, gravelly car park. they started off looking new, and after ten minutes in gravel they looked like they'd seen years of abuse. fun, tho! 😁

Some springs and things (Pro Shock 2s and Desert Lizards)

i nearly bought one of these today (bought an rgt trample instead), so I'm interested to see how things go. tomley called the rtr version a gmade r1 clone, but there seems to be a few differences, like extra mounts for the front suspension. more of a homage. 🙂

That seems sensible. I've made a few mistakes with the magnets, but it's all part of the learning curve. It turned out that the glue wasn't attached very well to the paint either, and it peeled off really easily. From what I've heard of Shoe Goo, it's not supposed to be that easy, so I think I probably tried to remove it too early, and weakened the bonds. I'm giving it another go, and it's been curing for about 12 hours now. 🤞 I made a few modifications, too.. Shortened the lower links by 3mm, therefore giving it the correct 280mm wheelbase (it was 282mm), and clocking the axle to try and sort out the reversing issue. Put M3 tubing around the threaded rods, so things are a lot more accurate underneath. Replaced the shocks with cheaper-than-chips Banggood shocks. They're listed as 100mm, but are actually 90mm, and they're really stiff, but that's a good thing - the old shocks were sagging under the weight of the hardbody. EDIT: Don't buy these shocks - they're terrible, badly made, leaky pieces of crud. Attached all the lighting to the D90, thanks to some LED clip things that came with the front bumper, and a spot of hot glue. I also removed the link from the light circuit to the throttle, which was working reversed. Bought a metal steering link rod wotsit, a metal servo horn, and a better servo. Naturally, it's now fixed itself. 🤔 I'd take a photo, but I'm not going anywhere near it for another 12 hours.😛

Pajero XL-W's are smaller than Range Rovers, yet they've designed it for a larger wheelbase? Are they going for a 1/8 scale? 😕 Secondary shell news! This one was supposed to be done, before I drove it around my 'office' and created some new issues for myself. I hate the way my carpet makes RC cars look like they're floating. 😛 This shell's completely magnet-mounted, with a Horri-Bull roll bar and light bar. I hid the wire from the light bar with heat shrink, which worked quite well. The bumper was bought with the D90 in mind, but it doesn't look out of place on a Coyote. Soo... issues. The steering is geriatric and variable. Even when it turns properly, it's not a very good turn (new servo and steering arm ordered) Sometimes it refuses to reverse, and I have to push the trigger almost to full before it wakes up and fires itself towards a wall (might be the rear driveshaft binding due to the wheelbase change?) The heat of the LEDs in the light bar has deformed it, and a couple of the LEDs have popped off. I had to cut the wire to get it through the shell, so I've voided the warranty. £8 down the lav. 🙁 Shoe Goo, my ass! How am I supposed to re-glue that magnet when the glue itself is still stuck firmly to the paint? 😬 edit: I don't think LEDs generate much heat, so maybe I caught the light bar with a blast (or two) from the heat gun when I was doing the heat shrink. d'oh!

A bit of an update on my D90 shell.. I hadn't realised that I'd chosen practically the same colour as a TRX4 D90. 😬 I just went through what Rover colours Halfords had, and chose Nightfire Red because it looked cool, and I'd seen real D90's in a similar colour. It's supposed to be pearlescent, but you can't really tell. The shell's mounted with magnets - two on the standard front pillars (I turned the posts upside-down, and screwed magnets into them), and two attached to where a rear bumper would be mounted onto the chassis. I made a ledge out of a Quality Street tub (still a bit flimsy) and screwed it into the shell where the shell's bumper attaches, then screwed magnets into the bottom of that. The only glued magnets are at the front, mounted on a piece of 3mm polycarb which is glued to the shell, as otherwise they'd be partially inside some recesses. Shoe Goo is fun! The interior had to be hacked and chopped away, and only the front portion remains, with holes at the back of the seats and a hole in the passenger footwell. I intend to insert a flat piece of black plastic at the back, once I've found something suitable. The lights are a Killerbody 14 LED set. Unfortunately, neither the body or the LED set came with the little plates that keep LEDs in place, so I had to hoard up all the spares I could find. Carisma are quite generous in this respect, supplying 4 with the RTR, and 4 with the clear shell, despite Coyotes not having anywhere to use them. 😛 I'm still 4 short, but I can make those out of polycarb. I also need to lengthen a couple of the wires, as they don't reach from one side of the body to the other. Plus there's two spare 5mm indicators, which I'm thinking could go in the bumper, but that would make it a pain to swap shells. A new bumper is on the way, btw. It'll be nice to finally get it outside! edit: i didn't realise what a wall of text that was. soz!

Can anyone suggest a rear rollbar that fits the Coyote? 🤔 I bought a generic one from Amazon, which fitted onto the bed lip with a bit of mild bending, but it's way too tall (and weighs half a ton, so it'll be falling over all the time) It doesn't even fit my SCX C10, so I'm not sure what these things are intended for. 1/8 vehicles? edit: A Killerbody Horri-bull rollbar turned up today; the same one that Exe_RC28 has. It's not a perfect fit, but it's made of plastic, so the bars bend to where I want them to go, and it's shorter! 😀 I have one more rollbar somewhere in the post, but I suspect it's going to be another big metal one

I kinda like mine, but it feels a bit off compared to my SCX clone and my FTX Outback (I kinda like the FTX the most - what's wrong with me??). I hope it gels, because I now have 3 bodyshells for it; the Land Rover for careful driving, the black Coyote for crazy driving, and this one for something in-between: I'll forever wonder if I should've bought the more expensive (and debatably less moddable) Range Rover, but this one was intended to be the rough shell before I salvaged the black one. I'd be too scared to break the Range! 😛 Now I need to find a roll bar. I'm thinking maybe one of these.

I've used them a few times, and they're okaay. Their processing time has so far been awful, however; completely negating their postage options.

After my last post, I bought another Coyote shell, thinking I would dump the old one and it's solid windows and dodgy paint. The plan is to use what's left of my polycarb paint, and add a roll bar and scale knick knackery. But while I waited for the postie, I had an idea.. That's Wilko bright red, btw. Way too orange, but perfect if you're recreating the General Lee! I'm not - my idea is to use up the black paint from the L90 and turn it into a Mad Max-ish kinda thing. It'll probably turn out better than the new shell. 😛 edit: wow - the window masks from the transparent shell are terrible! the windscreen mask is too big, the side indicators don't stick (most of them are stuck badly - the glue is *****), and the rear window has a cut corner so that it doesn't cover the window. 😮

I hate painted windows. I'm tempted to get a Range Rover or clear Coyote shell for when the hardbody is a hindrance. Speaking of which.. I haven't worked out how to attach the shell, yet. Probably magnets. Gotta work something out for the interior, too. Getting there, tho! 🙂

I just meant there's no indication of where the bonnet is. no indentation, or something like that

the painting is a pain, but less masking, and you can have almost any colour you like! those bodies do look nice, but the bonnet looks odd in the second pic - where are the lines for opening it?

Are those Deep Woods 1.9s? They so chunky! 😍

I took rather a lot of photos of the new bodyshell.. maybe too much, so I'll try and be selective. 🙄 First, the windows: The interior (mostly assembled, apart from rear seat backs): The body: The body on the chassis, with the interior inside 😨:

Not exactly, although I did try stripping the paint from those areas, as it's clear underneath. I tried acetone, paint thinner, and isopropanol, but nothing worked. Maybe I had the wrong technique. I didn't try nitro or brake fluid, as it meant spending actual money.

It's a Killerbody LR90. I bought mine from Make It Build It. The windows are polycarb/lexan. I'll try and get some photos of the bits tomorrow morning. The main body has a couple of mould lines running down it, which is no big deal, but there's a gouge where the front window was cut out which I'll have to fill. I've got some green stuff from my Warhammering , which might do the job. 🙂 The interior is really nice, but might need a tweak to fit around the massive transmission. I'm probably not keeping the rear seats, either - it's not for school runs!

I guess the posties have been given a poke, because my D90 body has also arrived! 😀 It's sitting just on the front of the chassis at the moment, which is why it's angled upwards. It won't be an issue once it's fixed properly. I'm not sure if it was worth shortening the wheelbase.. maybe it's something to do with the front bumper. At the moment, it seems like 285mm would've actually been better. 🤔 Next thing to do is wait until summer so that it's warm enough to use spray paint in my garage. *stares at calendar*

I messed up the shell of my Coyote a bit. 🙄 The window stickers were constantly peeling off, so I took them off completely, and decided to respray the whole thing while I was at it. The colour I chose turned out wrong, and the black acrylic paint that I used for the windows soaked into the masking tape and made a mess. It might still be salvagable, but I now have something else in mind - a Killerbody D90 hardbody! 😀 I ordered the new body on xmas eve, and in the meantime I've tried to shorten the wheelbase from 285mm to 280mm. I used 3mm threaded rod to make 4 new suspension.. er.. rods? Links? The long, threaded bits! The new links are 5mm shorter than the originals, and the wheelbase is now more like 281mm. I also switched the shock towers to bring the suspension forward, but it's gone from being 5mm too far back to being 5mm too far forward. 😛 Should be okay, I hope. I can fettle it a bit once I can see how the new body offers up. I'm not sure what to do about the exposed threads.. I could add a ton of hama beads, or use heat shrink, but does anyone know of anything a bit more hard wearing? I haven't been able to find 3mm ID tubing, other than fish tank filter tubing. edit: Standoff spacers! That's what I needed.

fireproof lipo bags are also worth getting, if you haven't already got one. you'll probably never have a LiPo fire, but it doesn't hurt to be careful

I've got a bootleg B6 - it's been working fine for 5 years now. it won't charge a 1s without a fancy bit of cabling, tho