Redback

Didn't expect DPD to show up on sunday, expected this tuesday, so nice Sunday surprise!

Started the RC4WD build. The quality is amazing vs trx4 and element kits, It's a real pleasure to screw into metal and not plastics. The chassis has no flex doesnt twist in the slightest!

Depends on whos driving and how you drive, where your looking at taking the truck and what you expect from it. I have some thoughts on the outlaw here, that might be useful, for example with the price point they they look like a good truck for kids but from my experience motors melt, drive train pops and you dont want to be constantly supervising your kid telling them how to and not to drive because thats not fun. They are going to go hard and will slowly get used to modulation. Anyway its a bit of an open question i suppose. Either way hope its helpful.

We all are new to this and still learning, To be fair its good to get thrown into issues earlier on as you will have the confidence to trouble shoot issues and tinker later on ;) enjoy! Let us know how it goes. Probably to much speed, but helps with take off / punch, look at getting drivetrain spares (spur, spare rear driveshaft) if running 3s hard, 2s is really the sweet spot.

Interesting and weird not used that remote and rx before so might not be much help sorry, as the outlaw is out of action what happens if you connect that receiver (RX) to the carnage and use the outlaws remote, does it function ok? Have you changed the endpoints on the remote to see if its that? These have a double tap reverse right?

For the outlaw atleast the esc wont beep as there is no current through the burnt out motor, the esc should still be fine. Not sure about the carnage as that still was moving (just forward) and brushless systems usally beep and then beep based on how many battery cells are connected, maybe take a small video?

Please show us the goodness under the hood?

If thats the intro ramp, whats the pro one like haha! Was also noting how cool the ramp is clever self leveling feet, adjustable angle looks like a solid bit of kit! Love it i want one Pulled apart the gatekeeper to see how easy a killerbody will fit, decided it wouldnt... Then ran out of paint so just semi screwed stuff in to see how she looks and wowie what a buet! Its so nice it would almost be ashame to use it.

The esc can take 2-3s lipo, the issue is the brushed motors can not.

If the rebind did nothing it could still be bound, Try resetting the calibration of the ecu with the controller. Not sure what model ecu you have but should be similar to this... https://www.etronix-rc.com/manuals/ET0405-0408.pdf

Hello and welcome! Sounds like melted brush armatures (things that hold the brushes) on the motor, Its common with outlaws to eat motors, go brushless asap imo. As for the carnage maybe try rebinding the remote to the receiver?

That reminds me the spurgear is held on by a tiny pin this can pop out and chew the spur gear, reccommended upgrade it out the box also, can get a metal one or hardened plastic one. [US$9.26]VRX Racing 10995 Upgraded Steel Main Gear 62T for 1/10 RH1043 RH1045 RC Car Parts RC Parts from Toys Hobbies and Robot on banggood https://banggood.app.link/ldR1sy3iUab Or glue the pin in either way worth getting a couple of cheap stock spur gears for the parts box. 2s lipo on the stock brushless is much better than the nihm battery supplied. Started replacing the body shell with aluminum panels, roof rack fits nicely at the back.

I would not run brushless on the stock pinion, Repace the brass pinion with a steel one, the brass one wears out really fast and can strip the spur gear. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/?product_id=13756

Depends on your driving style and what you want to do with it, sensored brushless for this truck is ideal. Prevents melting motors and sensorless cogging but your putting the cost of the truck into a motor to bring it up to par. Out the box they are a good cheapish light basher, upgraded / modified they are excellent and can do the lot bash, trail, crawl. I dont feel they need all the metal hopups the plastics seem to be fairly flexible but also dont hold screw thread for long so careful when tightening. A free mod i would reccommend to save chassis baseplates is some small metal plates on the plastic chassis out the box... as the corners are prone to snapping and the outlaw loves to roll. Sorry for the poor photo, basically use the same screw holes and screws just add some metal plates, the metal helps the trailing arm holders distibute the forces along more surface, never snapped a plastic base with this mod.

Its likely theres some water in the system some place, have you checked the reciver? The brushless ecu is splash proof should be ok for a quick hose.

Yes! You're much less likely to burn out a brushless, but you will loose the low speed control and smooth startups unless you swap out the transmission. Try for the longest can you can fit like 560 rather than a 550 length motor. But really an ezrun 3652 hobbywing max 10 or similar setup is miles better than the stock brushless imo. For the body shell im going to try gluing 2 shells inside one another/ together to double its thickness and see how that holds up.

Those look like they are going to be awesome fun, he probably wont be going to bed with all the critters that are out at night, a couple of times i have heard noises like some one climbing the fence and its usually a fox. Last bits for the year, cant wait to see how strong that servo is.

I don't think it matters as the flow is limited by the carb and tuning right? Maybe it affect fuel line pressure but no idea of impacts if any. Would also be keen to know if diameter of the lines has performance effects if any?

Drove it! Took the old girl out for a crawl, Lickey hills is excellent, lots of washouts, exposed roots and pine needles to slide about on. Really happy with the performance of the Element shocks, soo smooth!

Sound like your having loads of fun learning about your truck keep at it and no question is a silly one everyone was new to this once your among friends as Jack said ask away!

Hello bit of an odd one, bought one of these from modelsport 5 months ago, today it seems to have died. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=396837 Was out today driving with it fine, swapped batteries out transmitter, turned it back on and no binding with the receiver, tried factory reset and rebind, wouldn't bind. Came home nothing on google about them failing to bind, tried some more factory resets on a note the sounds didnt seem to be working when in the past it had a startup sound. Tried a firmware update, as it said there was updated firmware, completed the firmware upgrade, remote turned off. Unplugged remote from USB, turned on, light comes on screen now doesn't turn on. Cant reset, different batteries have no effect. Any ideas or similar experience from others?

Awesome can't wait to see how that transmission goes, what pitch is that pinion 32dp? how big of a pinion can you run in that transmission? I've moved both trucks to 18t and they work nicely. One issue with rear mounting motor is the extra angle on the front drive shaft causes rubbing on the universal joints, would recommend mounting R1 style with the motor facing forward to keep the front drive line more central. Looking forward to seeing your build!

I don't have a 3s shorty so thank you for the details will check them out for sure, for 2s lipo I've settled on a 3300kv motor on 21t pinion, there's a bit of pinion rubbing on the dust cover but feels spritely can pop on 3 wheels with low punch settings.

A comparison of the Axe R2 550 for those wondering about how big it is, fits fine in a trx4, ftx highrock & gatekeeper, too long for R1 buggy and probably capra.

In the SNOW none the less cant beat that for a maden run! Awesome stuff! Today I also worked on the gatekeeper. Added lights, motor swap, shock swap, tire swap, neaten wires. Ready to hit the rocks.