RC Marty

New ESC and servo arm. In anticipation of my new Traxxas TRX 4 Defender, which is due any day now!

Cheers. I've opted for the 120a version. Now to find a decent little 3s battery.

Evening all, I'm in the market for an ESC to pair with my 3650 52000kv brushless motor. I'm initially going to use it for a few speed runs using a 3s battery for short bursts. but for most of the time I'll use a 2s for general fun and frolics out and about. I'm running a WLTOYS 144001. I'm looking at the 60a or 120a Hobbywing EZ or quickrun ESCs. Questions I have: 1.will I get more top speed out of the 120a ESC vs a 60a ESC? 2. If I primarily use a 2s lipo would it be better to got for the 60a over the 120a? 3. Apart from the size and cost difference is there much performance-wise difference for ,y intemded use between such ESCs? Thanks Mart

Spent over an hour trying to calibrate my transmitter with my ESC. Bad times, think I'm at attempt #150. I'm carrying on as exactly the same happened to my car last time. The ESC is fine I just cannot calibrate both throttle and reverse and it just shudders when I try to drive it. Any suggestions?😪

No not yet.

Thanks Alex. Would a 120amp esc run a 2s though? As I wouldn't always be running the 3s battery (but it's a concession I'm willing to make for the sake of a speed run orientated car.

Hi I'm looking to set up a WLTOYS 144001 as a speed run machine. Not looking to go too lary was thinking of using a 5200kv motor,but which amp ESC should I go for? I want to run it off of a 3S battery, should I go 60A ESC or an 80A ESC. I want to minimise chances of me frying anything and also to keep temps down. Any advice?

I'm at my wits end again! Spent 2 hours today trying to calibrate my esc and throttle control ad my car was going out of whack. It's no use following instructions as they're wrong. Are there any FTX owners out ther who can talk me through the process, one that actually works? I've done it before but now I'm putting it down to sheer luck. I can o ly ever manage to get one direction sorted and then when the car is on the ground it shudders and wont drive. My take on calibration is: Esc on with set button pressed Then pull full throttle til 1 beep let go Push to full reverse until 2nd beep let go Leave in neutral for 3rd beep Switch off esc I've done this and a ton of variations and it still wont calibrate. All components working fine and the esc is relatively new. Can anyone help?

Yes. A number of times strangely reverse behaves normally, throttle on and then off and the motor spins until it stops. Do the same in forward and it has no gauge of speed it just seems to be either full power or off. but once you release the throttle it wont spin out it stops as though the brakes are on. I've even hooked it up to a program card and set and reset all parameters which had no affect. I'm stumped.

Hi, My Etronix 2950kv brushless motor doesn't work properly when running forwards. It turns but when you let go of accelerate it immediately stops with a forceful motion, rather than spin freely and come to a stop. Reverse works fine. But when I test forwards it's not responding correctly the speed goes from zero to full speed and when you stop the force of the stop then sends the car rolling backwards. Any idea what's going on? I recently changed the ESC as that fried. Also had to change the spur gear as it got damaged due to trapped grit. I've recalibrated the ESC but somethings up as the motor doesnt respond properly to forward input. I'm new to RC and dont have any further ideas as to what's up. I hope the motors not broken in some way any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Marty

I've tried to calibrate it bit it's stil not responding. I'll try again tomorrow see how I get on. Otherwise I may see of a local hobby shop can have a look. That or its £45 for a new one!

Hi, My car FTX outlaw brushless model currently doesn't work and I'm at a loss what to fix. Couple of days ago I got some grit stuck in the spur gear it worked it's way out but dented the teeth on the gear. It's at this point that reverse was playing up. Took it home, replaced the spur gear and fired her up. All fine, steering and forwards, but still no reverse not even wheel freewheeling. At the same time my ESC stopped doing the triple start up beeps wheneverit was powered up. I tried reverse and got nothing although I swear I could hear a noise emimating from the ESC whilst reverse was engaged. One more time powering on and then nothing no forwards no reverse no beeps from ESC, the fan powers on and it has the orange LED but no others come one when I try fwd/rev. So I've tried recalibrating it using the LEDS on the ESC it appears to register each direction as it fkashes red when I enagage fwd/rev. In short my ESC doesn't make the start up sounds, I have no response from the car when pulling fwd/rev. Any ideas where I go from here?

Evening all. Just took my outlaw out for a burn and 30 seconds into the drive I got some crap caught up in the spur and pinion gear. It no doesnt go into reverse and forwards it's very juddery at the start. So I'm going to order a 62T metal spur gear and a new pinion gear but which is it for the brushless motor model? Is it a 17T pinion gear I need to buy? Thanks

My Team associated 30W 350cst arrived today so I've stripped the shock down, cleaned it and bunged that silicone in there. All is good, back to nice suspension all round! Thanks for your advice. 👍🏽

Thanks. That's the approach I was going with in my head. See how the mood takes me when I get round to it. Thanks for the advice all!👍🏽

It's a RTR.

Ally it will be then, thanks very much for the advice. How trixy is it to switch out the chassis?

Thanks. What number cst do the ones you recommended correspond to? The 30 and 10-20. First shock oil change and I'm only 2 weeks into RC life. I do like to learn by doing!

Hi, I'm going to need a new chasis soon for my FTX Outlaw as the fronts damaged where it's connected to the bumper. I was looking to upgrade to a stronger chasis. Which is the better to go for aluminium or carbon fibre? I know the carbon won't be of the best quality but is that not more prone to cracking? I also don't like the fact the carbon one still has an aluminium plate at the front end it's then screwed together. My monies on an aluminium chasis. Can anyone advise from experience? Thanks

Just checking over my car and noticed one of my rear shocks has come apart. The cap at the bottom has come lose and leaked oil. I'll take it off and screw it back on but what's the best oil to use is it cst350? Also provided I don't do any massive jumps would it be ok to drive it without oil for a day or so whilst I wait for new oil to be shipped? Thanks

It came off, just needed some pliers and more power. She's 2WD until the weekend hopefully. @RadioFish thanks for the advice.

Thanks very much. Ok ill try again ill update you on my 2nd attempt.

I finally took delivery of my shiny new car, only to break it the same day! I hit a hidden tent peg in my garden at about 20mph and its broken the rear section of the cvd shaft. Ive ordered a replacement. And thought I'd take off the broken part in the meantime, but its not coming off! I've taken out the grub screw (see pic ignore fact the screw is in place in this pic) and as I understand it should just pull off of the tip that it bolts on to near the rear diff. Is that right? as I dont want to go yanking on it in case I break something else. Is more elbow grease required? Thanks

I've still got the standard 2s battery to use and the 3s will be for a bit of extreme power. Baby steps for now!