Paul Busby
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Everything posted by Paul Busby
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Wow they're massive! Haha. That seems a bit excessive, but whatever works. You can get them in a pack of spares, but they're just nylon washers with an ~M4 hole (just measured and they're actually ~3.85, but I can't imagine that 0.15mm diameter is going to be an issue), you can replace them anything that fits, just make sure right and left are the same as they're there so you can change the wheelbase. I probably have some spares in my box if you really want the original ones, but I'd recommend just getting some washers from eBay. For Example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Metric-Nylon-Plastic-Washers-Flat-Black-Form-A-M4-4mm-I-D-10mm-O-D-1mm-Thick/263947825223?hash=item3d74843047:g:DvwAAOSwTitbozeb The stock ones are 1 x 2mm and 2 x 1mm... so just use 4 x 1mm and off you go...
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Oh yeah wow... those mudguards are really the full length of the arm... that seems unnecessary to me. Can you upload a pic of the whole guard? The ones I make are no where near that size.
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Very cool man! Are you going to merge the pipes, or just having them brap brap brapping away?
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Reading this response makes me feel like a right smarty pants. I definitely pointed out the wind of the motor combined with the KV 😁
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M3 nylock nut, that one shouldn't need any threadlock on it. I've never used it on that nut. Possibly just needed to be a bit tighter.
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Don't suppose anyone out there has an old graphics card sitting around that they don't need, at least new enough that it still has driver support?
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The 30 hour print finished
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@Darren FrostyI have a Qidi X Max which has an enclosure. With the more engineering grade filaments, you have to preheat the enclosure to get the temps up to a consistent level. I then have to swap out for the high temp extruder which has a hardened steel nozzle and a PEEK tube, as PTFE tube shouldn't be used over 250c and we're going to be running at 260-300c, depending on the polycarbonate brand. Pure polycarbonate should need to be at the higher end of that scale, but pure polycarbonate is also much much much more difficult to print without the edges warping and peeling up. You also have to have the bed temp... basically as high as it will go, so around 100-120c on mine, from memory. You also need to be as level and flat as you can possibly be.
Polycarbonate is SUPER rigid when you making a thick object though. It's technically much tougher than nylon in almost every metric, but nylon has a bit more flex and will bend, rather than shatter. I've always preferred the results.
It's still tough to print, but there is a couple of brands that make stuff that has much less requirement for enclosure and constant temperature conditions.
I have learned/developed a couple of tricks from being on a few facebook groups as to how to improve prints. For example, glass bed with a thin wash of PVA glue helps with almost all filaments and putting a brim on the print, then deburring afterwards.
Feel free to ping me a message if you want to chat about it... im not an expert exactly, but I am a total research nerd and happy to help.
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And the self-combusting XLX2 saga continues....
This guy didn't look to be doing anything at all wrong.- Show previous comments 6 more
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@Redback - The modes available are Sensored only, Smart Sensor, and Brushed. Smart sensor will detect if you have a sensor or not, and that's the one Kev was using when his went up. Not sure about this guy, but I'll give him the benefit of the doubt and presume that he's using smart sensor.
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About to start a 30 hour 3D print, my longest and biggest yet... wish me luck!
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Yeah you're right. My word, im not doing well on these Kraton conversations for someone who has owned one for this long. I have the cable for mine coming out by the side of the drive shaft, but I also have a cable tie clip base right where it comes out... I don't know anyone else who has done this though, and no-one, to my knowledge, has had an issue.
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There is routing for the cable underneath the ESC tray
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There is a certain about of generational bodgery with Kratons, to be sure. The centre brace covering the centre diff is part of that. I don't run a centre brace, I just don't think it's needed if you have aluminium braces either end, and an an EXB, or aftermarket chassis.
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You shouldn't need them IMO.
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I guess my reference pool is considerably more shallow than most, but I don't think it's all that bad! You can get the front and back end off with a few screws, you can get at the diffs without fully disassembling everything... there are certainly a few things that it falls down on, but all in all, it's not too bad IMO.
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Shouldn't need them with the correct gearing. If you want fans anyway, then it's custom solutions by the looks of it... @m4inbrain has been working with me on a 1717 solution, which is a similar size to the 4585 1650kv motor... but I have had....complications.
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I have never noticed that before, but yeah, compared to my Tekno, there is a lot of play. Have to say that the 6s Arrma shocks hold up well though. Every time I take them apart for servicing the oil is completely clean, and I have only ever bent 1 shaft in a bad crash.
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This is what I had in mind originally, but it looks like it wouldnt fit with the 1717?
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Happy New Year everyone!
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I forgot about those things! Yeah they're not too bad. I've had a few issues with LVC on 6s. I don't want to say, "do this, do that" because I think they're something I'm doing wrong, rather than something wrong with the electronics.
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Wirelessly? I dont, haha. I do have my multifunction program card from SkyRC that can also give you cell readings if you plug the balance cable in. When I have been running for 15-20 mins I will usually start checking batteries every couple of minutes as I don't really trust LVC.
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Serious, serious condensation issue at the workshop
Took a few ceiling boards down, took the insulation off and a pool of water dripped down into the workshop.
Was just about to assemble the CNC router... I was basically done... I'm broken lads, absolutely broken.- Show previous comments 18 more
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I've also posted in a couple of other places, and contacted a few companies that do/sell shipping container conversions, so far feeling a bit better about the approach we have takenand people seem to think that ventillation and sealing up as best as possible should do the trick.
I've got some vents ordered, I've got a dehumidifier on the way, just need to build myself up a bit to deal with insulation again 🤢
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Paul, would maybe be worth posting up on Singletrackworld Forum, there are few guys on there that are seriously into building some amazing sheds/garden offices etc, I think a few were even on Tv with them, a lot of knowledge, so perhaps post your build images and issue,
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Thanks AG, good to know there is another resource pool of well schooled folk with some experience. I think with all the places I have posted already and the feedback I've had, I'm going to stop talking and start working. Going to head up there today and start moving my kit out again I think, let the room air out, maybe take a couple more panels down.
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I had a set of Arrowmax bits (all but one are now useless), but only a single EDS driver(still ok). They certainly could just be rebrands, but that would tell me that the quality is inconsistent. My team associated bit seems to be doing ok, but TBH the only ones I would buy other than MIP are Hudy. Expensive outlay, but in the long run these tools end up being much cheaper. I'm far too broke for cheap tools 😁
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Which set? There are other brands that are good, but there are a lot that aren't. Hudy = Very Good EDS = Pretty Good Arrowmax = Not great (lucky if you get 6 months before they round)
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Just the same as you, I've had my eyes on the LMT since seeing a couple of YouTube videos with it. Looks epic fun. Just totally broke at the moment
