Ninetiesbeard

prefer the clod in the background haha. Yeah theyre worth something to the right person, spares are getting hard to find

These will sell well. No idea why people dont include the rings normally

I think theyre going to be fine. Gonna shim them, clean and regrease. Might strip the paint, not sure. The wheels only slightly rub, think im going to shim and relieve the portal covers a bit

So i got my AR45P axles from chinabay, and ive got to say im not particularly happy. Theyll do for what i want, but they most certainly arent quality items. The gearing feels chewy, the silver on the axles is actually painted (!) and not raw. One axle was seized solid but freed up with a little persuasion. Theyll do for what i want, but beware if you want nice quality items. Oh, and also my wheels dont clear the portals so thats brilliant.

If it was black it was probably moly based

I ponder if you could fill it with a thick grease? like eliminate backlash with the weight of the grease Edit; No okay that is a ridiculous amount of slop. It might be multiplied through the drivetrain across the whole thing, i take it youre already looked at all the driveshafts and that to no avail?

I dont think so. I think the dude who ran MMR is running an ebay account called "Rchopups" because quite a lot of stock seems to move through there or at least did last time i checked. Also remember seeing that the location was the same

Hpi savage. Grab a cheap nitro roller off of fleabay and brushless convert it, 4s with decent electronics and fling it over jumps until it breaks

actros looks great

Christ. Oh well, live and learn! i paid 160 for three, yikes.

Can we get two, make a weird v mount, gear drive them together and make a weird little v8?

Okay here we go. It looks like a decent bit of kit and its priced reasonably as well. Of course youd never expect anything to be wrong with it out of the box, but the setup might be wrong. Im wondering if the lack of steering thing could be because the tyres rub on the body. Id mess around with the controller, maybe see if theres a dual rate control on it anywhere to get more throw. The arches look awfully close to the tyres on the photos im looking at, maybe you could purchase a tyre with a slightly smaller diameter to combat this. Another trick is thinner hex adapters. Im willing to bet theyve got 6mm+ hexes on that truck which push the wheels out further making the problem worse. Which version are you running? the one with the cnc wheels or plastic? The plastic wheels look to be offset, which will make that rubbing worse. Really we would want to bring those wheels in by about 10mm each side, which is pretty nuts. The speed control is probably tat judging by it being a ready to run model, it seems to have become acceptable to sell rtrs with really basic equipment. Its possible with a different controller to dial in some "exponential" to soften the ecs response, but that controller would cost more than a new esc. I would highly suggest a hobbywing 1080 esc, they are fantastic and cheap. However, we can mess with gearing to change the speed. Depending on what the physical design of the truck is like, you can probably +/- 3 or 4 teeth without issue. It comes with a 35 turn motor so going to a 45 or a 55 would definitely slow it down, but i would probably mess with the gearing first. It seems like a pretty good truck looking at the photos, although its very difficult to get close ups of the chassis and its components. Hopefully this was helpful in some way. Edit; You could also purchase some "over fenders" to allow you to cut the wheel arches with a larger radius and let you fit the larger tyres. Depending on personal preference that could be a solution, they are cheap on ebay and a curved set of lexan scissors are always good to have You may even be able to snip just a little bit off of the existing radius without it looking odd, its a hit and miss game though.

Metal Front Rear Portal Axle Assembly for 1/10 RC Climbing SCX10 III AX103007 | eBay Ive ordered a set for a 6x6 im building, They look fairly stout. I plan to modify the housings so ill be able to comment on the material hardness ect.

Adding to this ive got a set of cheap alloy ar45p axles in the mail from china, if they ever get here ill add a review here to bolster our knowledge of the cheap axles

Hi again, The inner fenders are finished and the stl files from spare time hobbies are decent. I made a filler plate/slider to go between them as my old ones dont fit anymore. I will also need to relocate some of the electronics but that was expected. The bf goodrich tires went back on as i prefer the look of them even though the growlers were the supreme performers. I need to finish the slider for the other side, and then possibly do a little more fine tuning on control systems. Im going to fabricate some more steel components to hold the bumpers better as well as cover the small gaps at the front and rear; to do the inner fenders justice. Thanks for reading

Got a single 2.5mm cobalt drill bit for some titanium links im doing for my new truck. Got lots outstanding though

Depending on what rc car it is, they sell custom cut vinyl for them already. It wouldnt be too hard to make your own as alex said you could also grab some thin sheet metal like steel but you would have to roll the edges round of the existing chassis which would be quite a pain, it could also get caught up. What i usually do in this case is just grab the cheap spare chassis and when one gets scratched almost bare then just replace it

The lipo probably needs to see a load before it will act up, could be a buggered lipo triggering the escs battery protection protocols. Might be an idea to give it a cycle on your charger if you have one with an lcd

Sounds like a heat related protection cycle, is it geared correctly? does it stutter on take-off? Could also be that the low voltage cutoff on the esc is set really high, meaning that after youve used it for a while the esc thinks the battery is flat, puts the car in limp mode and then when you turn off/turn on again its regenerated enough to do it again. This could also be a loose connection, while giving it some throttle gently wiggle the connections and see if it stops the way you describe then. Best i can do without a video, hope that helps

It will just get more expensive. Although its not like they needed any excuse to make it more expensive. Look at the cost involved with setting up these days, as a hobbyist its got to be around a grand for something decent and the gear to support it. That said, it does change the way things are taxed. Ive already seen items getting more expensive with shipping due to supply chain issues.

Yeah nothing wrong with using grease in the diffs. You can get different thicknesses of grease as well so, if your diff doesnt support oil then you can change it to a heavier grease if you want the diff to be stiffer

Its more the cost and area youve got to consider there. Nowhere near where i live supports a vehicle like that, and also youre probably looking at 500+ for a really fast one. Talking 120+ mph. Personally id do what everyone else does and get a 1/8th platform, delta plastik body, 1/5 esc and fast 1/8th motor with big batteries. Full rebuild on every crash though

Lol, i need to send you those inner fender stls! Yeah i went through that idea. I even considered raiding the local shops for a bottle with the correct profile, but theres a company that sells the files for ones that fit exactly correct and are printed so im gonna go that way

Hi again. I did some more work on the two speed as i bent my gear selector rod on the last trip out, which sucked. Ive just added more brazing filler material to the same piece of steel to stiffen it up. I also used the pitbull growlers on that trip out with weight, and they worked really well. More grip than the bf goodrich for sure, but i just wasnt happy with the look so i went back to the others. I wired up the kc daylighters, but left the ends bare for now as i want to do a proper job of the light kit eventually. Its a job im avoiding to be honest. I also mocked up some aluminium inner wheel arches but the look was wrong and my friend has offered to print me some anyway so that will be sweet. Other than that the truck has been cleaned, ran twice since the last modifications and has run really well both times. The 18650s will give me around 3 hours of run time which is insane, and the setup as it runs currently only pulled 10 amps maximum in around an hour and a half of mixed driving; well below the maximum rating of the cells. Not much left to do on this truck, but fairly soon a new project thread will be started on here as soon as things start turning up in the mail and i have things to show.