GMballistic

I love forums too and for me I really don't get why Facebook is so well liked by so many specifically for hobbies like ours. Here's why; a forum layout is so much easier imho to find the information you need. Facebook groups are just a constant scrolling page where the same questions get asked again and again. Whereas on a forum you can go to specific sub sections and usually find the answer fairly quickly. Yes there are "search bars" available on Facebook but like on forums that task seems to fall below most peoples level of intelligence on how to use them as they seldom seem to be used. Great write up @horatio and love the paint job.

Welcome aboard. Make sure firstly all your wires are correctly plugged in and in the correct orientation in the receiver. Then I'd go through the set up procedure again making sure that your "trim dials" are all in the correct position before setting up. E.g. in the centre/at zero. I'm sure you've already looked but there are videos available on YouTube that can show you how to do it just in case you're missing a step in the set up process.

Never thought about trying those as they are a "Rain" tyre. Could be just the ticket for drag runs though if they are that soft and sticky. Thanks might try those in the future. 😉

Welcome aboard.

It's a mixture and varies between drag racing groups, leagues, states in America etc etc. There is "no prep" drag racing which to some people means the road surface is unprepped so no rubber down, no sweeping, no tyre additives etc but like I said that varies as some groups/leagues doing "no prep" allow their racers to use tyre additive on their RC's before they run but they must do a burn out before they run. "Prep" drag runs again vary but for the majority that means they're allowed to use tyre additives to gain extra traction and the tracks are usually always pre-prepped. Whether "no prep" or "prep" running though it seems you're allowed to heat the tyres up before running by doing a burnout so most seem to just hold the RC spinning the tyres up on the tarmac or a piece of carpet. Not seen anyone using actual tyre warmers but I bet some do.

No real advantage at all no imho. Hoon tyres are 100mm compared to the GRP tyres of 98mm so some would take that as a slight advantage but it's negligible being only 2mm over the rolling radius. GRP tyres with their various compounds (softest/S1-hardest/S7) available are more advantageous overall as Hoons only have 3 different shore hardness's at the moment I believe so you have more choice of shore hardness with the GRP's. GRP tyres are also proven better at higher speeds so far but then this isn't a speed run RC so it's not as critically important. This isn't performance based at all but I do think the Hoon 5 spoke rim design with it's dish does look so much better than the GRP tyres rim. Pity GRP doesn't make a nicer rim design. I've left the Hoons on for now as that is what the Infraction came with and it was a brand new set too so thought I'd give them a go.

Looked great in slow-mo going through the water.

I thought about selling them and putting on a set of the softest compound GRP tyres I could get (S1's) but decided in the end just to run it with the stock tyres for now. I read a lot from the guys who know what they're doing with their drag cars about running foam tyres (BSR foams mainly) so that maybe the way I go eventually depending on what happens. I ran foam tyres (SP Racing 50 shore) before though on my Limitless and it ended badly. Basically a big crash at ROSSA so I switched back to GRP tyres as I've never had any issues running those. Downside to running stock Hoons is that if I do like them and get it set up nicely on them they're expensive to replace but it may end up being that I only need a set per year or something so not too bad (only an extra £20-£30 over doing the same every year with GRP's).

It has toe in on the rear as it cannot be adjusted on the rear without purchasing an adjustable hinge pin set. This is how the rear toe in comes from the factory... The front as I mentioned I have adjusted most of the toe out of it but left just a little toe in. The idea being on launch the front wheels will go to toe out just a bit but essentially will be at zero toe in/out and hopefully run straight. I'm not planning to touch the steering much on a drag hit and will also turn my dual rate down so that if I do have to correct the response will be slower so less twitchy. I'm no expert though so it could all go "Pete Tong" and end in pieces. 😢 Anyway something else to show, ...just spent a good 2 hours making some carbon fibre winglets for my spoiler design/idea. I ran out of 3mm carbon fibre so couldn't complete the wing but had just enough to do the winglets. Thanks for commenting/reading @Stormbringer makes me feel like I am at least not just doing this for myself and someone else is at least taking a bit of interest too (lol). I can tell you my Mrs is not in the slightest bit interested in any of my RC's or what I do with them.

I had a lot of fun running the car on my own trying to get quicker and interested to see what the changes will yield now. It should be quicker and hopefully still run straight.

Welcome aboard. First thing I would check is the battery charge level as well as making sure all the wires are connected properly still. Good luck.

Ready for some test hits now although I do have more to do still. Thanks for reading and comments/observations welcome.

Front end finished and looking pretty good ~ like new now tbh so very pleased with it. For the drivetrain I bought a Scorched Parts Pinocchio spool set up which comes with titanium driveshafts so more than enough to handle hard drivetrain loads. I also replaced the centre Arrma plastic mount with an RW Racing made aluminium replacement. With that all in place I rebuilt the rest of the car and added some Scorched Parts carbon fibre side skirts that I bought for future proofing ~ gives me more room for a larger ESC in the future. Worth noting I also left on any unnecessary parts to try to save weight where possible so the handbrake module has been removed as well as a few plastic parts (centre shaft support & drive cup cover. This saved 132grams odd. With all that done I started trying to get the suspension, wheels and steering set up. I've tightened down the rear shock springs whilst the front springs have been loosened off considerably in an effort to make the front softer. As I mentioned before it has a rake angle added to the car so the front is lower than the rear, ...with the added shock limiters the rear can now never go lower than the front even under acceleration. All the tyres have been set up with zero degrees camber to try to get maximum contact to the tarmac. Before. After. For the toe I could not adjust the rear which has some toe in already set. Tbh for now I think I will try it like that anyway although my first thought was to eliminate all toe in on the rear. The front I have set up with the slightest of toe in which on launch will go to zero toe in I'm sure. I'm new to this drag racing so just learning, researching and trying things I think might work as I go. I needed a good safe place to mount my GNSS GPS module so using some spare parts and carbon fibre I made my own holder which I decided to mount at the front ~ trying to keep as much weight towards the front as possible.

With a delivery today from Modelsport I was finally able to start putting the rest of the Infraction together. The front end was in a poor state just like the rear end was so required a full strip for rebuilding. I replaced all the screws, washed and cleaned everything as well as removed surface rust from the drive shafts/tie rod ends etc. I also replaced the bearings with new metal shielded versions as well as added a newly built up front diff with 2 million oil. Above picture also shows a sneak peak at my new drivetrain from Scorched Parts. 😎

A lot of it is personal choice of course but I would say that I'd be definitely looking at a truggy or monster truck brushless RTR set up. For using it with kids some RC's allow you to turn down the power via the remote or ESC and there is also the option of using a lesser cell count battery for when the kids are using it as well as a higher cell count for when you take over. Guessing you're going to need lipo batteries as well charging equipment for your budget as well?. Arrma Vorteks 3S is at the top end of your budget but recommending it because I have experience of Arrma's and imho they're a good brand with lots of spares available. Link: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/arrma-vorteks-3s-blx-rtr-purple-1336457

Welcome aboard.

Thanks. Just waiting on a few little bits from Modelsport now so I can finish putting it back together.

Been working on my Infraction for the last few days ~ still in the process of rebuilding/renewing and improving. It's sad to see a lot of rust and rusty screws on RC's so that was important for me to sort out. The entire truck was also covered in oil/grit/grime so I really do think the previous owner had very little or no idea of how to maintain this RC ~ to my mind it's got dirty/wet and the screws have rusted so to fix that from happening further he has sprayed it with WD40 or some other oil like spray which has made every bit of grit stick to it so the only way to sort was a full strip and rebuild. I also as part of my modifications wanted to set up the suspension, drivetrain etc like I wanted it so fully rebuilt the shocks changing the oil for a much thicker grade of 10K (standard is 2K) as well as adding limiters to restrict the amount of travel. I also rebuilt the rear diff adding thicker oil to that ~ 500K CST in the rear. The suspension will need further tweaking once everything is back together so I can see how it sits with the added weight of the batteries. I'm trying to keep it's stance low but it will be higher at the rear than the front which is called a "rake angle". I run my speed run cars like that as well due to the cars squatting down at the rear under acceleration. The limiters in my shocks will control how far it can squat ensuring that the rear will never be able to go lower than the front as that could cause air to get under it and make the front end become light or worst case scenario possibly cause a blow over. My dog bones have also had the slack taken up by inserting O-rings in the drive cups on each end (another trick I learnt from speed running). I've tried to make them straight across from the differential housing as well as I feel too much angle causes unnecessary strain and isn't as efficient. Will be adjusting more like camber/toe settings as soon as it's together.

Welcome aboard.

Welcome aboard. I'd say keep an eye out for a good used condition buggy or truggy as you'll get more for your money, ....Arrma Typhon, Arrma Talion, Losi 8ight & Losi 8ight T would be my choices.

Welcome aboard and Merry Christmas to you too @Trunkle .

So frustrating isn't it @Tug . I got asked what I wanted for my Birthday by family members so I made a little list of RC stuff I actually needed ~ got asked; "isn't there anything other than RC stuff you want?" 😩 Why ask what I want if as soon as I tell you I get asked isn't there something else instead?! Anyway thankfully I did get some things RC related today that I wanted in the end as my Mrs got me some Losi parts and this afternoon my Dad gave me some gears from the USA.

Clothes, shoes, smellies mainly ~ RC wise just some Losi SBR 2.0 bodyshell spare buttons but that's about it. Still I am happy as I did buy myself an Arrma Infraction before Christmas so there is my RC gift to myself as nobody else would have bought me that. Merry Christmas and seasons greetings everyone.

Yep I know that thanks. I'm not following American guide lines, ....this is the distance we are all doing in the UK league FB group. It's better suited for making it easier for people to find spots to run as well as if they want can compare it to what the 1/10th scale are running.