monkeyboy_uk

TRX4 wanted. Any model considered, roller or complete. Let me know what you've got.

This

A number of YouTubers are fitting the treal axles. Shame about the price, they do look nice.

Mine is the orange Granite. I agree, the new ones are a bit loud.

There's talk on the Arrma forum about some new 4S models being announced around April. The Big Rock seems popular and is a bit more stable than the Granite. That said, I really like the way the Granite drives.

The Outcast 4S was really interesting. I am hoping that Arrma refresh their 4S range.

I have a number of bashers. At the moment I'm not running any of them for obvious reasons. When I do get out, I do enjoy my Arrma Granite BLX. It's pretty rapid and durable. I also like my Slash 4x4. Once I've moved house, I'm going to get the 1/8ths out more and also the X-Maxx.

No need to react so aggressively. I thought you were finding the brushless too much.

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Sounds like a bad receiver, transmitter or calibration issue. You'll need to look in the manual for the ESC to figure that one out. Good luck ...

https://www.competitionx.com/pdfs/vehicle-manuals/team-durango/team-durango-desc210-rtr-manual.pdf

...

Maybe you would prefer it if it was brushed?

Or you could post ...

Not with those components. On 3S the SC8 is only rated to 4000KV or less. The motor is really meant for a 1/10th scale, you will cook it. You could try running those parts, but once they go up in smoke, you'll have to replace them anyway which would be a waste imo. Also I would start with 4S, 3S might be a bit pedestrian. Have a look at something like a Hobbywing MAX8 combo instead.

I used a cover on my Slash 4x4. In spite of the mesh material, it got very warm indeed. I run without it now. It's made by Dusty Motors and does have a good reputation but I don't mind the cleanup. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/dusty-motors-arrma-senton-4x4-3s-blue/rc-car-products/1333142 Alternatively you can run a body where the wheels site outside of the bodyshell. You won't get as much dirt in the chassis. As for the cogging, you'll need a sensored system to eliminate that completely.

Go for it. If you can afford it, are not too bothered if it doesn't turn out, will have fun trying, then why not.

I for one welcome our new reptillian overlords with open arms.

My ammo boxes are lined with fire retardant plasterboard. The lipos are somewhat insulated by this and don't seem anywhere near as cold as the ambient temperature. The general advice is that if you store your lipos in the cold, warm them up slightly before charging or running them.

Indescisive, you? I don't believe it.

I never leave lipos unattended when charging, and they all live in my shed, in ammo cans. I'd be upset if my shed burnt down but I'd be devastated if my house went up. I don't think you can be careful enough with lipos.

I rarely left the house even in non covid times. The main difference for me now is that I no longer play the stab between the fingers game.

Senton every time. No comparison.

Are you still using the plastic spur? If so, I noticed that it caught slightly on the chassis with the alloy center diff mounts. Changing to the metal spur sorted this.

The diff cover is on thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3094782 I have the alloy diff casings so not sure if the t2t braces are strictly needed.