coffeecup

Maybe, but bearings are hardier than people think. As long as there is a good cage inside they can take quite the impact, plus the arm is plastic and it looks like the bearing is in a little housing according to that picture. What intrigues me is how the pins are captured, the bolt in system means there is very little flex in it and it goes through to the chassis, that said there is a massive bumper and a wheel so it should be ok as they should take the impact. My concern would be grit and dirt, a bearing that small won't take much to get all glued up.

Next it will be Proline introducing a revolutionary no drag body and it will just be a set of headlight stickers for your chassis!

I know it's a joke but I bet it would jump oh so well!

Thank you

Ok, thank you.

Hey everyone, I just wondered if people could give me some advice on suspension. I've never really bothered to tune it and when I raced often my father would help me with a lot of the technical aspects and it seems rebound is something I never picked up. My confusion comes when we get to rebound. Is there any way to directly effect rebound. I have tried using piston heads with smaller holes but obviously that greatly effects the dampening and makes the entire suspension sluggish. A thinner oil or harder spring creates a bumpy ride and causes the suspension to bounce the car back up, effetely just bouncing across the surface like a rally car, which obviously causes traction issues and then crashes. Ultimately I want to the truck to return to it's set ride hight but not aggressively. On my motorcycle I have little valves I adjust to effect the flow rate to the external res that manages this but obviously that isn't a feature I have on stock suspension. How does it work?!

I honestly didn't think 5ives were this bash friendly. It really makes me want one!

Such a good looking chassis. I don't think I've ever come across a chain drive model before. I really want it. I would have to take off that front bumper though, never been a fan of them. It just looks like I needs to be flying over jumps, that shell just wants to go fast!

RTR. When manufactures switched over it really changed the market. It means a teen can save up a relatively small amount of cash, buy a Stampede and run it the same day. It also saw a general increase in the availability of parts as more model shops took the risk of stocking high value RC cars because they could just sell a complete box set up without having to have the knowledge of every single product. RTR has caused a massive shift in the RC landscape and I can't see it ever going back. Fibre Reinforced Plastics Pretty much every RC now uses them, there was a time where they were reserved for the A-Arms of racers who didn't want to use expensive graphite arms. The drop in cost of these plastics as well as developments in the area mean we are seeing stronger and stronger cars. I mean we've all seen cars going 15+ feet in the air and landing perfectly fine, for their scale that is incredible. That wouldn't be possible without the materials and manufacturing developments that are now common place. My old AE buggy used to eat arms with a bad turn, a flip could often mean a broken shock tower, now I don't even flinch. The Internet Forums like MSUK create a community that drive the hobby forward. We can search the web for answers to our RC questions, places to meet and local groups. I stumbled across RC by accident as a child with my dad when a village hall was double booked on the day of my birthday for my party with 5 or 6 guys carpet racing. The exposure the internet allows, the driving down of prices and the general access it gives the consumer drives the hobby. We all buy from Modelsport, Hobby King, AsiaTees, Dollar Hobbyz to name a few....In fact the last RC I bought came from Switzerland. It allows RC brands to works faster and more efficiently. I know it's not specially just an RC thing but it really can't be overlooked. It is where our main community lives. I mostly drive on my own, but I am never alone as I know there is a community out there that is really awesome. A hobby is nothing without the people.

I am up North but might be interested

I am still really excited to see what it is like. I think I am at the point where I will leave it 6 months and then take another look as to if I want one. In the mean time I am working on my E-Maxx I just really can't wait to see one driving in person, I've never seen a large scale RC driving. According to their Instagram they are posting a new X-Maxx video of it in the mud. https://www.instagram.com/p/BA7gAVDtZkc/

So...that there 2 year warranty? Is that held with the distributor, the manufacturer or global brand? Under UK law a warranty offered is held with the issuer, so if you by a TV from Amazon and you get the extended warranty, even if it's a Sony TV your warranty is supplied by Amazon so you have to take up issues with them. That would lead me to believe that you lose that warranty? Is the 2 year warranty offered in the US? I can't seem to find it on the US site.

visually I think it's quite cool. I kind of like the chunky toy look for a change, rather then generic american pickup, I wouldn't say it's amazing, the shell under the cage hasn't got that much moulding but for me it's where the front bumper sits. It looks really low compared to the front of the shell. I know why they do it and why they make the shell sit higher but it has that weird thing where you can see the chassis sides (and battery box) under the shell...I always feel that gap kind of looks like a fat girl in a crop top.

cool little model, I like that the light bar works, a nice little semi scale look. This is quite likely to get my money!

Hmmmm. I am thinking I am going to wait and see. It's quite a chunk of money. I think maybe I will hold out for the 3rd party parts support to kick in and see what happens then. For now, E-Maxx build and sort out my Slash...maybe spend some money on my 1:1 toy P.S. Love the cupcake.

Question Time: The model shop here in the Netherlands near where I am staying has some coming in next week. After I leave. They are selling them at €860 which I think comes in at £640ish. I leave on Wednesday evening, they come in on Wednesday morning...what do I do? I am very tempted to wait...I am back here in every couple of months. I am very tempted to not wait I guess it will depend on what time the car comes and picks me up on Wednesday. ARGH. I mean I wanted to do an E-Maxx build...I have a Slash 4x4 now in pieces...I want to keep my girlfriend.... Look at me, it's been two months back in RC and I have 5 cars already....stupid toy cars!

Check your slipper settings? If it's tight that could be why, check grease/oil in the diff as well.

If you were feeling brave you could take a hobby knife to the grip at the edge of the tyres and just slice the smallest bit off to aid clearance. It's a trick used on cars with rally shells to stop you wearing the paint at full compression. It will effect side grip very slightly but provided you keep the same edge profile they should hook up on edges just the same. If it catches the paint and rubs it just throw a clear coat on the inside. low down. a couple of clear coats help protect against rubbing. It's come out really nicely, great colour. I am very jealous.

Nothing wrong with it being an older platform Just means it's tried, tested and there is a wealth of information out there. They offered the buggy as I kit from what I can see, I would be really interested if this came as a kit. I wouldn't mind the Proline Pro-MT but it's just quite expensive for what it is, at least to me it is.

Looks good. What is the quality of LRP like?

So I went and poked around in a Dutch model shop. They had one out in the store to look at but they haven't got any in stock to sell, all were sold as pre-orders and aren't doing any more pre-sales. It's big, especially when you start looking at individual components it seems massive, as a truck all together it somewhat loses it's largeness, I guess that is a testament to the truck as a whole looking the part. Axel to axel is isn't actually a massive amount longer than the E-Maxx. A lot of the promo pictures show a size comparison from the edge of the tyres which, when the guy in the shop popped the wheels off really impacts it's size. The wheels are surprisingly light. The inner wall of the tyre is smaller than the outer, like a short course tyre. This means they are quite light for their size, all things considered. The weight is pretty central in the truck. The guy in the store said it drives well and for it's height doesn't grip roll. He didn't actually show me it running though (I will explain why in a moment). There is a lot of weight at the end of the a-arms, they get thicker towards the hubs and after he removed a shock I was..well, shocked (sorry) at the hub weight. There is some clever moulding that keeps the weight to a minimum with lots of strengthening lines, meaning that while all the weight is on the outer edge of the a-arm it's still not stupidly heavy but enough to cause some slight flex of the hub from the top a-arm being quite thin. His English wasn't the best and neither is my Dutch but the truck couldn't be shown running because of a crash. He stacked a jump nose down, the bumper broke to one side and impacted the suspension which in turn broke (at the bottom of the shaft) and it caught the shaft, breaking a pin, freeing the shaft which broke free at the wheel side due to the rotation force. While the suspension had been fixed there was still no front left drive shaft due to lack of spares. He said it was driver error as the jump was just too small for the X-Maxx and caused the rear to bottom out, flipping the truck forwards. According to another staff member the jump wasn't that high (4 or 5 feet), they figured the weight of the truck just doubles all the forces. They were happy with it but didn't expect a cartwheel to break half the truck, it is worth noting it currently isn't that cold here in the Netherlands but the truck was going flat out on 4s. Anyway, sadly I couldn't buy one as they didn't have any in stock. I am here for a bit longer so I am going to pop back and I did leave my number, so fingers crossed!

That looks awesome. It is such a nice shell, well done on the decals!

Not a problem. As regards electrics, consider the size of your regular running space and it's surface. It's great to use big gearing to get to 100mph but if it takes 3 times the space you have the car won't be fast or quick. You want the car to never stop accelerating so set it up for the space. `if you hit your top speed half way down the car park, gear it to go faster until you reach the point where you are hitting top speed for your area. That way you get the most usable speed out of your car. It seems pretty obvious but a lot of people gear their cars for speed that is just not attainable in their space, meaning cars geared towards a lower top speed are actually faster. Obviously things like suspension and tyres on the surface greatly affect the speed and ability to carry that speed through a corner. RC's grip round corners surprisingly well and far outperform their larger counterparts. On roads are really fun and you get loads of body options with lights and such. Great fun!

When you say speed how fast are you talking? A fast RC or a speed run RC? A good place to start with on roads are Tamiya's. Pretty simple and very well prices. Chassis like the TT-01 and TT-02 (01 more so) have loads of 3rd party upgrades which mean you can put a lot of power through them. The only down side is the stock gearbox and such will need a few upgrades before it can take a powerful brushless system. Plus they come as kits so as you build it you can add in the upgrade parts straight away, you get the fun of building it and setting it up (if you want to go fast a good set up kit really helps). TT-01/2 kits often are a good place to start. They are accepted as most clubs as a place to start and drive really well. Tamiya's also are good at being converted, if he gets bored he could turn it into a drifter or even a rally car, all you need is a couple of different parts. If you are talking speed runs you will want something along the lines of a racer like a AE TC or an XRAY TC. The advantage with racers is you can buy an old version of the a model say like a TC4 from AE, pay a really good price for it and have a great car to boot. The only issue with slightly older racers is getting plastic parts, they can become scares if you get anything older than one or two generations. You can get really good deals though. If you really want to get into speed running it's pretty much custom builds for that high end stuff. It might be worth heading to your local club and see what they have knocking around (if they race TC) as they will often have somebody with something to sell. Personally I would pick something along the lines of a Tamiya TT chassis, maybe if you wanted to go a bit more into the club racer scene something like a Schumacher Mi1v2. I hope that helps.

I'm flying to the Netherlands tomorrow for work. I may have a poke in some hobby shops while I am there, I feel it would be rude not to!