Vr5fx

Can get a thin screw driver to get to the idle screw by going behind the brace. (Even move rollcage brace a little) Or richen up the low end a tad, that'll bring the revs down.

I did a Hyper ST to SCT a few years back. ST chassis, front/rear and Hyper 7 arms. Used a SC8(?) shell.

Try adjusting the trim a little (like a tiny bit)... Is there anything binding on the servo? Or does it still do it with no load?

Yeah I've had a look around, the only one I can find is the FID one, and that's over 100 quid. ?

Thanks for the reply dood. I do have a Hitec HS-5765MH in my brushless Baja, I won't be running that till next year, so I can use that for steering and the spectrum for throttle/brakes for the time being. I looked at the push/pull setups, but the prices seem extreme... Don't you only need to swap the upper part of the servo saver?

Hey guys. I recently picked up a DBXL... I'm in the process of giving it a haul over, and am at the point of figuring out which servos to use. Would using a plastic geared one be alright for the throttle and brakes? I was thinking of using the following. Spektrum SPMS901 for the steering, and HiTec HS-805BB (plastic geared) for the throttle and brakes.... Or would this not be recommended? Never owned or really poked about with a DBXL, so all new to me, I was suprised that the throttle and brakes need a large scale servo, while my Baja uses a 1/8th lol.

Capacity as in the MaH, the charger will put a maximum of 5000 mAh into any lipo (maybe others too) battery. I guess it's a safety setting or something.

Your charger is set to a 5000mah charge limit. The top left shows what is happening. Full = full battery. Capa = capacity limit. and so forth... these you will get used to, and change depending on what charger you have, these should all be in the manual. If capacity limit is reached, just restart the charge, and it will carry on. Looks like it was finishing off balancing anyway, so it wouldn't need much more. You might be able to change the settings on the charger, like capacity limit. Are you charging at 6amp?

Yup, it's there to stop debris from entering the flywheel, like grass and small stones.. (that could damage the flywheel) Would be worth getting outerwares on the pull start too. That'll stop anything going in on both ends.

Ah, thats a shame regarding the SCZ, but good to know, I'll keep an eye out and see what pops up. Maybe I will go for the ESP head then, looks like a good place to start anyway. I love the g290, it's a wicked engine and takes punishment. ?

Hi chaps! I have a 29cc Zen engine in my Baja, it's a great engine, and has ran spot on for as long as I have had it, but I'm looking at getting something "more" I cam across SCZ engine, and reviews look pretty positive, but there is a lack of stock in the UK, so this doesn't look too promising... Linky I've also looked at this Linky for upgrading the head... But haven't seen much of them about. (IIRC this should drop onto the 29cc) Would the high rev head give much of a performance increase over a stock 29? If not, is there anything worth looking at? The SCZ engine, would be about my budget limit. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Much love

Only ones I can think of is Hobbyking and banggood. For cheaper models and batteries ect

10x45 would be my first guess, that's what I used to use... But you could try something like 8x45x3... Harder to balance, but should give smooth flights.

End points arn't set, as it's going past max turn, so it puts strain on the servo saver and chassis. That's the only problem I see there. Putting a new chassis and top deck to hide this is only going to put more strain on the servo.

If a cell drops too low from usage, or shows some voltage it's worth trying to bring it back... But a cell showing 0v, it's dead, and if it's also puffed, so hell naw to that. It's recommended to fully discharge the pack then salt bath, and dispose of it as mentioned above. If it were my pack, I would take the not recommended route and turn it into 2s. But I have done this many times in the past, so I am aware of the risks.

Bit on the vague side mate. Does it turn over? Is there a spark? Fuel getting to engine? Air filter clean? Carb settings?

Maybe these would be worth a punt? Bit more expensive, but hit the figures you are after, again, running them in series. Link Other options are Gens Ace, and Turnigy Graphene, if your pockets are deeper.

Took mine out for the first time last week since putting the new motor in it. Forgot how much it liked to wheelie, took a tumble and broke a diff cup. Made me think if it's worth modding to put a center diff in, calm the nose down a bit Then again, not used it for 6 months.?

What are we running? Turnigy heavy duty, can't rate them enough... However looks like no stock in the EU or UK warehouse. Use them in my Baja flux, as do a few peeps Here is a link if you want to check them out Linky Or run 2 of these in series. Rated 40c... Depends on what you want out of them. Linky numero 2

I have no idea. I'll have to do a speed test next time I have it out. At a guess, probably around the 45-50 mark.

Very pleased with this clip. Jim (the drone pilot) is really skilled and done an amazing job keeping the Baja in shot for most of the clip. The baja is my creation, only issue is that the foams don't like to stay in the tyres. Even the fronts pucker up at high speed.

You can also get LiPo buzzers which might be a worth while investment. They attach to the balance lead, and will sound an alarm when set voltage is hit. So if you set it to 3.4v per cell, that would be a decent place to stop. The alarm is hella loud. LiPo buzzer Or, you can get a plain reader, which is the same but no alarm. Cut a hole in the battery box, and glue this in the top, that way you can monitor the battery through out the day. LiPo reader

6v should be fine, as that would be 3v per cell. Any lower than that wouldn't be good for the battery. (IIRC actual change to the internal resitance starts around 2.7v per cell and below) If someone else can confirm, that'll be grand.

Try backing off the screws that are holding the pullstart on the back plate. Pull the pull start half way out, then start backing the screws out by 1/4 turn till it recoils back in. If it doesn't recoil, you might have a dodgy pull start. If it recoils, then win-win. A drop of thread lock on the screws and pop them back in, adjusting them to how the pull start reacts. The metal part you are turning to wind it back in is the flywheel I would think.

Pull the back plate off and take a look. Heat is bad though, so something is amiss