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So the transmitter has an inbuilt failsafe.... This only protects you under certain conditions. If the transmitter gets turned off, or if the batteries in it die, the inbuilt failsafe kicks in. which is set manually, so it could apply the brakes. However, if we look at the model. If the throttle servo breaks while at wide open throttle (WOT) the transmitters failsafe wont work, as the servo won't budge. Same applies to if the battery disconnects, or the throttle linkage jams open, this is called a runaway. If you are going full throttle, and the battery disconnects, the model will keep it's last known input, which is full throttle. A killswitch will stop the model under all conditions. What ever happens, either the killswitch, or the user can kill the engine safely and quickly to limit any problems. They can be a pain to setup, but they can prevent damage to the model, or worse, injury to a person. I reckon the trnamitter is okay, I'd put money on the receiver or battery in the model.

Cutting out at a distance is going to be battery related, or a damaged antenna on the receiver. Make sure the batteries are fully charged That's some real bad advice there. The killswitch is killing the engine for a reason, and you're telling the guy to take it out? That's a high risk of a runaway. If you take the killswitch out, make sure the wheels are taken off the model and set on a small box, walk away from it feathering the throttle. Listen for any change in throttle response. You might get a small bit of delay at 30m out, but if it doesn't respond, it's not the killswitch.

It crosses my mind every now and then. My LiPo packs are stored in ammo boxes, both are full. Keep them in my bedroom away from anything flammable. Not used them properly in over a year, but check on them every few months. I check voltages, all packs are stored before putting away, so if any cells are out, I'll isolate that pack to the LiPo bin in the garden (flower pot full of bad packs) I also check for any swelling. Slight swelling is fine, but I'll put a layer of gorilla tape around it. if it swells more it shows on the tape, so it makes it easy to see if there is any change. If the swelling gets worse, it goes into the flower pot. Been doing this for near 6 years, no issues. Has your metal container got a hole in the top? I drilled a hole in the top of my ammo boxes, so if something does happen, it can vent. The other side of it is this. Your mobile phone has a lithium pack in it, as does a lot of tech... You don't store those in a fire proof bag, in a metal container, on a fire proof shelf at night. Do what feels right, If you feel like you want to isolate more packs to other tins, do it. LiPo packs only let go when something happens to them.

Ah good news! Good luck with wiring the killswitch for the 50th time. 😄 Bash on!

This sounds like a lose connection, or a broken wire to me. Are your batteries fully charged in the model and transmitter? Are you cycling the killswitch before you try to start the model? Assuming your using the stock radio (Flysky GT3B) Turn on Transmitter -> Turn on Model -> Press channel 3 to cycle the killswitch, you should now have spark. You will hear a slight click come from the killswitch box. Personally, I use 3 pieces of paper to gap the coil, normally fold a post it note into 3 thick, put it between the coil and magnet part of the flywheel. Then check to make sure there isn't any contact by rotating it a few times by hand. You say you disconnected the killswitch? If you only unplugged it from the receiver, the killswitch will still work (engine disabled) and will not let you start the engine. Think of it like a flat battery, or a disconnected battery. You were getting spark before, but not now. I don't think it's the spark plug. I think you might have something wrong somewhere. Also worth looking at the LED on the killswitch, can get some direction from that.

Holding the revs on while one of the back wheels are off the ground can do this. If the back end leaves the ground at any point, you should let off the throttle until it lands. It's a weak point, but it's there for a reason.

I'd say whole thing, I wouldn't put my money on something that comes from China when you'll have no after care at all. It's probably the same as Rovan or KM, but why risk it?

That's non branded, would avoid it myself to be honest. No idea what the carb is either, IF you have an issue with it, you'll be dealing with someone out of the country.

I've personally seen both ends of the spectrum. But it also comes down to user care. They've upped their game recently though. But maybe they are getting more known in the field. Personally, I'd buy Zenoah, great price and worth the extra, But if I were in a pinch, I'd go for KM over Rovan.

Not sure if you sussed this. Looked at one myself as a mate got one, so had play with it. I think you've got to set the failsafe up, so after you've set the channel 3 up as a button, and do as instructed above, go into the RX settings, and set the failsafe so the switch is in the position that kills the engine. I didn't test it on a live engine, but seemed to work on a benched one.

Exhaust clamp. Just a case of putting a mounting plate under the bolts. There are many types, so maybe you could find one that suits your need?

25-30c is probably more intermediate, but it all depends on your driving style. A good rule of thumb is that when the model looks and feels like it's slowing down, it's a good time to stop and check the battery. Keep your current settings and see what the voltage is when it cuts in

That's about right. Keep in mind that Lipos from new are at storage charge, and should be kept at storage charge inbetween usage. So they already have some juice in them before you charge it. Did you balance charge it? Other than that, everything looks good. Don't over discharge your LiPo either, you can get alarms for pretty cheap. 3.5v-3.7v per cell is a good place to stop. And remember to storage charge you packs after use.

Look at your transmitter. There should be a switch or button marked something along the lines of S.Rev (servo reverse) There are 2 settings. Nor (Normal) and Rev (Reverse) Using this will change how the steering is used, in your case, it should correct the direction the servo moves when you steer with the transmitter. If you struggle to find it, let us know what transmitter you are using, or throw some pictures up, and someone will look it up for you. Don't confuse it with T.Rev (throttle reverse) If in doubt, sit the model with the wheels off the ground when you test it

I converted my shorty to 8s brushless. Was wicked fun, but only good for straight lines. Modded a cage to fit it too Got a few decent videos of it, but ended up selling the conversion, and putting it back to petrol. Was fun, but racing with the petrol guys kinda killed it. The brushless would whip anything on the track, but end up going flat, while the petrols keep going for much longer

I hope you're not bashing during the lockdown.... 🤔

Welcome back! Arrma arn't top dogs, just like anything in this hobby they break. 🙄 Very nice and tidy models though. I still feel the ST pro and Hyper MT are better bashers.

More than likely, it's fine. End line, you've probably shortened it's lifespan, but I'd say if the hardcase looks fine, and the voltages is fine, carry on using the pack as normal. Hard cases are pretty packed, so any puffing would crack the case at the join. If I were in your shoes, I'd give it a few cautious cycles, but carry on. I've done it a few times by accident, no issues. If you're not too sure, store it outside for a few days.

Oooof! Good job. Definately fixable. I recommend a good inspection of the rear end before purchasing parts, to see if any other parts are damaged. Maybe even a slight strip down. Nothing worse than having to do more than one order. The broken part in the picture looks like part number FTX8308 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Outlaw-Kanyon-Rear-Axle-Housing-FTX8308/372901674915?epid=737916124&hash=item56d2abffa3:g:I38AAOSwW-heEHOF That Ebay seller is Modelsport, so it's also available from https://www.modelsport.co.uk/ftx-outlaw-kanyon-rear-axle-housing/rc-car-products/406772

Hi, welcome to the forum. Assuming it's a FTX Outlaw? Spares are available for the model. Pictures will help us identify what parts need replacing. Otherwise, if you refer to the owners manual, or locate one online, they will show details and part numbers. This is the exploded manual for the FTX Outlaw. https://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/diagrams/FTX/Outlaw Parts and Exploded.pdf

Last person I knew who used scooter oil blew 3 BZM engines (Same one rebuilt) ... Scooters don't run at the RPM that these do. I wouldn't use it, same as that carlube stuff... I use this. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004A7H8CC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Modelworld are pretty decent. One of the guys are in our facebook group. No harm in giving them a ring. But models will make a difference. What are you looking to repair?

Get rid of that carlube cack. It isn't made for these engines, might be fine for a scooter or a strimmer, but these engines run at higher RPM. So you want to look at racing 2 stroke. This is what I and a few mates use, without issues. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004A7H8CC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It's possible the oil you have used has knackered the engine. Sounds odd, but don't cheap out on the oil. Tuning wise, you can go 1/4 of a turn on the needles to get a rough tune, then you can fine tune. These motors arn't as moody as nitro motors. So your starting tune should run, and get the car moving So lets look at the carb. What carb is it? Are the air filter screws too long? If they are too long, they go through the isolator block, push on the head and cause an air leak. Unlikely as your experiencing flooding Is the breather hole open and clear? There is a small hole on the bottom of the intake port on the head, this goes through the isolator block and into the carb., this is what feeds the engine fuel. Again, unlikely. Sometimes the engine won't try to fire up with the choke on, shouldn't need more than 5 pulls. Then try to start with the choke off. Where are you located?

Maybe try it without the airfilter in a controlled enviroment, so no dust or debris can get into the carb while you try it. It could be gunked up. So when you hit the throttle, it can't get enough air and stalls. Could be a tuning problem. Running too rich, so when you try the throttle, it bogs down and stalls. Next time it floods, wind the L needle all the way in, hold open the throttle and pull the starter. It should start and die off pretty quickly as the fuel supply is cut, and more air is being let into the engine. Have the wheels off the floor just incase (set it on a box or similar), this is a quickway to clear a flooded engine. Reset the L needle Next time it starts, try leaning out the L (winding in) the revs will go up, so counter that by backing out the idle screw. See if there is an improvement on how it reacts to throttle input. What fuel mixture are you using? And what oil?

You would be better off chucking it in the bin. Or maybe keep it as spares. The number after said engine, like yours is the displacement of the engine, so .25ci (cubic inches), which converts to 4.1cc https://www.liveabout.com/how-is-rc-engine-size-measured-2862919 Nitro engines are evil, the sleeve and piston are matched. If your problems go down to the bearings, it's honestly not worth trying to save, you don't know what the motor has been through. Force engines are pretty decent, and can be had for a decent price.