jariworsley

likewise admire those that can. I have no urge to do so... 🙂 just a fan of bands with meaningful progressive political lyrics. and some of those are punk, some straight edge. e.g. Rise Against. Also a big fan bands like The Levellers, New Model Army, - band that can write down in song reflections on what is wrong in the world.

Nice share. I had not researched/gone as far back as Minor Threat before. and had no idea the term straight edge came from one of their songs. Big fan of Rise Against - more recent punk band with many members as straight edge. progressive politics and hardcore/punk.

Thanks. I think I need a more open space to test it. Goes like stink. But I have only tried on front of the house. Too many parked cars and curbs. Nice idea on torque steer but it has a front spool. Only diff is at the rear

Finally nearly finished and driveable. Splendid mistake with the shocks so had to rebuild. Really enjoyed putting this together. Electronics are used and out of another touring car. No reverse . Not sure if that is a possibility on this ESC. I do have a weird road test problem though. Steering was super twitchy. I have turned down the expo on the steering channel and that has made it slightly better. Not fixed it And under hard acceleration it pulls to the right. What might I look at for that.pulling under acceleration?

Bump and... These are ending tonight. I have another of the savox and the ftx enrage. And a few with scale. DM if looking for a motor. I will keep an eye on the wanted section otherwise

same question as above. what size- 40 or 36mm. i have a bunch listed on ebay finishing tomorrow : https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jariworsley/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= I have more to thin out just not listed them anywhere yet. What is it to go in?

I have skimmed the for sale rules and think this post is ok. Mods let me know if not and I can amend/close. I dont know if its ok to just add the ebay listings here, or if I am expected to add in fixed prices for each motor. I am having a clear out of motors. Too much magpie tendency and too little time. I have listed them all on ebay. 9 auctions in total. me: https://www.ebay.co.uk/usr/jariworsley. (11 years with that profile and 100% positive feedback) items: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/jariworsley/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from= Adding in some of the more interesting here. I am happy to do deals outside of ebay. Oddest of all: a 3650 can 3600kV Savox brushless motor. Yes Savox. Really. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185340912427?hash=item2b272de32b:g:xgcAAOSwTS5iMP2n I can find reference to Savox brushless motors in only one place so far. here, a japanese RC shop. https://www.sekidorc.com/pdf/SAVOXmotorCATALOG_20130118.pdf ebay auction is starting at 99p. take your chances or... impossible to value. £30 delivered inc fees. I have 3 of the smaller finned brushless: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185340967791?hash=item2b272ebb6f:g:Z-wAAOSwWMBiMQac and for larger scale an etronix photon 2y 2150 kv 4075 size: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185340992698?hash=item2b272f1cba:g:FpAAAOSwFJliMQrx £55 delivered inc. fees. there are a few others in the listings. ping me with direct message here or on that auction site.

Don't discount it and don't let my realism put you off.. There is a load of interest and stuff to learn in the hobby. And it does not need to be really expensive and you don't have to learn it all at once. One approach is to try someone's RC. Depending where you live in the country... I bet you are close to a member on here. Or a decent hobby shop. Go and try someone else's. And it does not need to be hugely expensive. Like building things? there are plenty of Tamiya kits that are fun to build in their own right and then stick on shelf. I.e. closer to the modelling side and great scale realism. Like running? There are smaller scale vehicle that are cheap to buy and upgrade.

My advice? If you have a budget ... then don't spend all of it to buy the RC Unless you are going to buy it and stick it on the shelf then there are ALWAYS running and upgrade costs. Leave some money aside for that. It is a big part of the journey and fun of owning an RC. If you are not just buying it to put on a shelf then there are two big parts: 1. running it 2. upgrading, maintaining, fettling, cleaning it. 1, running it, ..... leads to breakages and parts wearing out, or frustration with the gear that came wiht it and upgrade-itis. and that leads to number 2 - maintenance. e.g. hit a curb (dont run somewhere with curbs) - break an arm and order parts. or ... misjudge a jump and replace X, y, z. or get fed up waiting for batteries to charge or short run times and... buy more batteries (never cheap) or a decent charger. 2 - upgrades, maintenance etc. you run it you will break it. what tools do you have? decent tools make working on an RC a pleasure. bad tools make it a total PITA. keep breaking particular part? upgrade it tyres dont work where you run? buy new ones seems slower than you wanted or got used to the speed? now you are buying higher cell count batteries or better motor/ESC. be realistic.. These are all emotional not rational purchases. That means logic and reason go out the window. My prediction? if you spend £400 buying a car you will have spent another 2-400 by the end of 12 months as part of owing that RC. (e.g. tools, batteries, chargers, wear and tear, upgrades, etc, etc). so if you have the money go and buy it, enjoy the journey and have fun. just go in with eyes open.

I have a short term cheaper option for you, somewhat tongue in cheek but... with element of truth. 1. Fix the buggy. 2. find somewhere to bash that is nowhere near kerbs. kerbs kill cars. at the scale it is like driving a 1:1 car into a 2 metre high concrete wall. physics wins. and there is subtlety here in the stories above - that tamiya is transferring that impact direct into the chassis. does not look like there is any bumper at the front at all. But a savage landing on its nose is landing on a flexible rubber bumper, a model kartwheeling over a field is... losing energy to soft ground not a brick wall. for best bang for buck? 2nd hand 8th scale brushless buggy. or one of the bouncy monster truck or short course with bumpers front and rear. or see if tbones are available for tamiya ??? dont know if they are

ok. no problem. i will have to list and set proper prices if others are interested let me know.

etronix 2y 2150kv sensorless. ftx colossus motor - not 40size. 3670 from memory and 2250kv. prob not what you aare looking for if wanting occasional 6s and a obbywing 4268 1900 i know if this was the for sales section I would need a price... but hopefully a bit looser in wanted. let me know if these are of any interest.

what sort of size are you after? i.e. what is it going in? and how many cells are you looking to use? i have too many things lying around, e.g. 2230kv motor from the ftx colossus. or larger hobbywing.

quality piece of kit that hong nor and looks clean. I was tempted by that too - 12-nitroman on that auction site yes? I seem to remember "hong nor big bores" being just the thing for those converting hyper 7s years ago?

Choice over the blower would be great. They missed perhaps a trick on the body posts for the hood at.least. Just make them look like hood pins http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=025gcq9o9gefna99i9ip8dcbd1&action=dlattach;topic=2223.0;attach=3886;image

Spares out of view? And sell it or bin it? Congratulations. I must be the total opposite to that. Much more of a "keep that just in case" sort of person. I can only aspire to that kind of organisation! Stampede looks good

That is so tidy. But.... But... Where is all the other stuff??? The boxes of parts, half repaired long term project and random stacks of body shells or tyres?

More progress and less documenting. I have got as far as the shocks to build. Starting to very much come together: before arms As it stands today. I did have some errors building - there are three different lengths of grub screw in the kit... and I used the wrong ones when assembling the hubs. I used the 3mm long ones. There are both 3 and 4mm in the kit. 3mm are used for the antiroll bars. 4mm for the hubs. Aside from that it is going together well enough. Need to get the shocks built and last few pages of build done. I need to choose a low profile servo to fit the steering and servo gubbins properly. and I need a shorty lipo pack. so this is stalled until I get servo and battery sorted. Recommendations aside from the obvious savox low profile ?

if the FTX can cope with those mown paths then 1/10th will as well. e.g. the tamiya stormbringer says above. or even mad bull. and you get to build them... and then use them elsewhere. or to add to Tugs post - if not 10th scale MT then go 8th scale MT or truggy. if I could have one and one only RC it would probably be 8th scale truggy. so capable, lots with great race history and engineering to match, capable of taking serious power trains. and 8th scale just gives a lot more strength and durability compared to 10th. Lastly I wouldn't base an RC choice solely on that one piece of land. Where else might you want or be able to run them? How much might you value the building of it over the running of it? realistically once you have 2, what are you going to get for the 3rd? because you have two boys (three if we include you 😄 ). 2 RCS and 3 people? hmmm. edit: of course grass that long could match 5th scale petrol... interesting engineering but then you are into a whole new range of cost, complexity, noise. and your boys will probably hate it at 9 and 11.

that is a shame. years ago they were a go to place for lipos and all sorts. they seemed much less competitive and full of choice now I have come back to hobby. that fine cant have helped - $2.8 million for " marketing noncompliant transmitters used to relay video from drones to amateur drone operators " I guess by not having a UK base they can continue to ship here but avoid the regs.

there are some hobbies or sports where the answer to "how many things of type X do you need?" is "n+1" Bikes are well known for this - off road bike, then you fancy a road bike, then somethign for commuting, then something old for Eroica, then just something to learn skills on etc etc. Same with cars yes? although the question of how to count them can get a little philosophical. if you buy another ftx vantage and strip it down for spares does it count or not? or do you only count running, serviced and ready to go vehicles? ps. I like the Kyosho in that picture. and why three supras? Nice cars- you have one in real life? or just somehow managed to end up with 3?

A little bit more to show for today. rear gear diff, front spool and centre layshaft done. gear diff is all composite. time will tell how it holds together. components of the bags. bearings are all in same bag but separated out as needed. no idea what the small ones are for yet, but they are the cutest small bearings ever. Dry fit of gear diff. normal stuff including 5000cst weight oil for the assembly. steel for the drive cups on the gear diff. Spool and gear diff together. Spool much quicker- in this case with composite throughout. on to the centre layshaft. 64dp spur , 96T. goes together easily as well. All three done. on to the steering assembly after this.

Looking for 36 or 40 size can? I have a 3660 ftx colossus motor sprqr. And other 40 size.

If we are going down rabbit holes ... Dare I bring up terms like "voltage sag" and ripple voltage? as well? 🙂 Its all interesting, but the more you pull on this thread the more is revealed.

some time with scriptasylum and the gear ratio chart at the back of the manual... kit spur is 96T. I bought a set of pinions 41-45 - looks a good choice. transmission ratio is 1.9. so with 42t pinion as "the answer" 😉 and a 3600kv motor I get 40+ mph top speed. That's a good starting point I think. Differential Ratio: 1 Transmission Ratio: 1.9 Other Ratio: 1 Spur Tooth Count: 96 Pinion Tooth Count: 42 Total Voltage: 8.00 Motor KV: 3600 Tire Diameter (inches): 2.2 Tire Ballooning (inches): 0 Motor Current Draw: 0 Motor Coil Resistance: 0 Spur/Pinion Ratio: 2.29 : 1 Total Ratio: 4.34286 : 1 Tire Circumference (inches): 6.91 inches (175.55 mm) Rollout: 1.59:1 Total Motor Speed: 28800 RPM Vehicle Speed: 43.4 mph (69.72 km/h) Effective KV Value: 3600 KT constant: 0.38 oz-in/A Motor Torque: Amperage not specified... Final Torque: Amperage not specified... Final Power: Amperage not specified...