locky

The Desolvit graffiti aerosol I had is several years old, so looks like no longer available. Others have used Tamiya Polycarbonate cleaner or Paint remover for paint removal but thats also hard to find in UK. Brake cleaner is a possible alternative as it contains aliphatic hydrocarbons, buy always best to test on a scrap piece of lexan.

Original motor and esc. motor stopped and esc smoked. Original motor and new 1060 esc, motor would not go. New motor and 1060 esc, motor goes immediately esc switched on and esc smokes. If the above summarises, then probably the original motor damaged the new 1060 esc. Escs have a current limit, perhaps the old motor caused a high current which has damaged components on the new 1060 esc.

I would contact the shop your got the car from and explain your unhappy as this is a new car. A reasonable shop should help.

Calibrate = set throttle range. So what does the esc now do when connected to the motor out of the car? Nothing no beeps or LED?

Check connectors in receiver are with red in middle and black on outside pin, I think the pic shows this. Test the motor out of the car, so that there is no resistance but dont give it full throttle. Check the voltage of your battery pack. A new esc will need to be calibrated to your tx? Recalibrate the esc. Does the esc beep once for nimh?

When removing the backplate the piston needs to be at top dead centre otherwise the backplate will catch on the bottom of the piston and crack it as the backplate is pulled away. You can see a groove on the backplate where the bottom of the piston will sit when it is at the bottom of its stroke I would get a new engine, buying used engines is a lottery and I dont think your got lucky.

This 45kg servo just arrived today, cant comment on its performance yet as no time to fit and use it.

F5.9 similar to Force .36 engine. I've never ran anything larger than .28 engine. Larger engines will have more torque but not top speed. The extra torque will wear out your drive train more quickly and also go through fuel more quickly. Bigger is not always better, your choice. You will pay more for a HPI branded engine.

I believe that 7/VS/8/9/Cage/ST/SS Hobao motor mounts use same diff mounts so holes are the same as they use the same diffs, not sure about the VTE. The mounts are designed for a flat chassis, however the ST uses a plate under the diff to raise it up, as well as fixing points for the braces. So the outer mount fixing point will be raised off the chassis in the ST. You will need to pack this out if you were going to use it.

If you mean the pin on the back of the one way bearing like this, then the snapped off end could be in the end of the crank. The one way bearing is just a push fit and can be drifted out and a new one pressed in. Parts for the K4.6 are probably hard to find as its discontinued. If you can get the pin end out of bearing then you could find a dowel of suitable size and press fit in the hole. You will probably be better off getting a new engine, a Force 28 from Aliexpress is about £85.

It's been a few years since got any, quick uk search finds nothing, but used these before from usa or this from amain

I've bent this cheap motor mount, the top arm twisted from the motor torque and they dont have much adjustment for a wide range of pinion sizes. The Hobao mount is stronger, third mounting position and wider pinion adjustment, not bent one in a Hyper buggy, but I think you will have to adapt it for the ST due to the plate under the diff. I've two STs, one with mount from forum member who used to make them and the other is this from aliexpress which has held up but still doesnt have a wide pinion range. The diff is offset which why you need the to use the provided plastic diff bracket.

Try resealing the carb and backplate, check cooling head screws are tight, exhaust manifold has good seal, to try and rule out any engine leaks. Some engines dont run right during break in. Factory needle settings are a guide, so you may need to adjust to get it to run depending on your location/onditions.

I dont know what escs FTX use but would recommend getting a Hobbywing esc if keeping the car. Just make sure the current limit and lipo cell range is adequate for your motor. You could always try to contact the supplier for replacement esc, but have a search to see if users find FTX escs are reliable. Usually lower end rtrs will have budget escs. Running on grass can put more strain on esc and it can get too hot. Always best to check hot the motor and esc are getting.

The MBX7TR and 8TR fit the same.

HPI k4.6 nitro star engine going by cooling head.

The accuracy of value infra red temp guns is questionable but it will give an indication of temp range +/- say 30F. Dont tune according to a desired temp. Just use it to prevent the engine getting too hot for prolonged periods. This is usually 300F or about 150C. You want to see the temp decrease at idle after longish full throttle run.s. The laser is just a pointer and the sensor location maybe further away from this point. I would measure at glow plug and on side of crankcase. Check whether measuring distance and surface/material doesnt significantly alter reading. Infra red usually give lower readings on reflective surfaces. You could try testing on a metal kettle where surface should be around 100 deg C, if your at or around sea level. Try get to get used to feel and sound at different needle settings so that you know what too rich and too lean do. It wont harm the engine for brief up and down runs. HSN controls majority performance after initial acceleration, LSN is the initial punch from stationary and idle rpm, idle rpm is also related to carb gap. Usually those starting to learn to tune go too lean on HSN and too rich on LSN.

The results of the pinch test can vary so dont rely on them to tune, but your description is the common guideline. Performance and sound are the best, Try to to tune your ear for too rich and too lean. It wont significantly hurt the engine if it is too lean for a short period. Always tune when engine has reached typical operating temp.

I have some questions about adding weight. Is it best to add unsprung weight bit by bit or are you just throwing it all on? Do you know how much has been added? Does the extra weight compromise going downhill, or does the Fusion Pro help this?

Dont know if this helps assumes you have bluetooth module, In the lights dashboard, but I think it is still buggy software. click Edit to get to the advanced settings. Scroll down to Reverse Lights and change the action from “Reverse” to “Brake”. Now your reverse lights will come on as soon as you push the throttle in the reverse direction.

Being picky now as think matt black would look better. Not sure how to make the curved corners with it though.

Finished removing paint from windscreen, just the rear left, F-150 High Trail came with window stickers. Think I'll not bother with trying to detail black window rubber trim as cant see any method.

I'm very new to crawling/trailing so only recently came across different motor/esc combos. If your a serious crawler then I believe a motor with FOC is the latest best type. The Fusion Pro seems popular and has the esc integrated with the motor whereas the Axe are separate. If your mainly just trailing then brushed motor with 1080 esc seems popular. Too much choice!

I'm assuming this is a new engine and car, so dont think there should be any air leaks. Tuning should be done when engine is up to temp. I use a typical paper clip to set idle gap which is about 0.8mm. Your idle gap maybe too high. Check the carb gap when all electrics are on. Leaning LSN should increase idle rpm. Adjust by 1/4 turns and adjust idle as necessary. Try testing with car off the ground.

One way to quickly prime is to remove line from exhaust and blow down whilst watching fuel being pushed into carb. You can also increase the idle rpm by adjusting the throttle trim on the transmitter. as sometimes a more open carb helps starting. The HSN is the primary fuel flow needle so if this is too lean then the LSN will usually have to be too rich. There was recently someone else having starting issues using the Hyper 21 engine so not sure whether the needle settings are actually correct in the instructions. Try to keep engine temps around 200F for break in, preheating helps.