Ross9999992

@ridfrenzy Holding the button while turning the esc on is often a step towards recalibrating the throttle/brake endpoints so you may well have reset that. Things to try in this instance in order... Check battery isn't below LVC (storage charge is fine) Rebind tx/rx (just to be safe) - instructions should be in the manual Set throttle trim to centre - again the manual if confused Recalibrate endpoints - guess where to find out how to do this 🙂 Turn esc off and then on again to ensure calibration is saved Check the led for lipo/nimh - if you need to change it follow the instructions in your ss - hold the button for 6+ seconds to change it - green = lipo, red = nimh That's usually the way to fix these kinds of gremlins...failing that if you still can't get things going then try to get a video of you showing the battery voltage and trying to change the lipo/nimh setting.

If your lipos actually are lihv then there’s absolutely no reason not to charge them to 4.35v/cell, that’s the whole point of buying hv….lihv balance would be the setting to use 👍🏻 Some folks do overcharge regular lipos also yes but imo that’s just dumb and asking for fire. Lihv however is made to be charged higher.

Haha yeah that “I did a thing” feeling is always great. It’s simple enough so as you are even attempting it I imagine you’ll be fine 🤞🏻

Just be aware that you’d still want the ability to balance the cells as you are putting them in series 👍🏻

I have one of those unbreakable shells on mine…feels like it’s made out of like wheelie bin or gritbox plastic if you know what I mean. Definitely a lot tougher than any lexan shell.

Pretty much 👍🏻 You’d need to check the input and output voltages are suitable for what you want but yeah 🙂

Voltage is voltage regardless of chemistry it’s just the current you need to be careful about really. As long as they aren’t getting hot then happy days. Lithium based power tool batteries should have their own cutoff circuitry built in so as your knock off died and recharged then all good in theory. Cool idea for some carefree crawling 👍🏻👍🏻

@Skinso1978 Going by the PayPal receipt it looks like I may have got them in a 50% off sale. Seems I paid £72.18. It was the 2 pack with deans connectors so I had to swap them out but still 😀😀

I use these CNHL 4s myself. They fit into the xmaxx perfectly. Bit pricey when not on offer but if you register/sign up for newsletters or whatever they often have sales 👍🏻 They do have some lower capacity ones for cheaper as well 🙂 This kinda thing - should also fit nicely.

There seems to be a gasket set available for these - trx7781 or there are other ways to diy a gasket if so inclined (paper bodge, gasket paper, instant gasket etc.) to stop the leaking. As for grease I’ve used boring lithium grease for all things rc for many years. I will however be trying some “red n tacky” in the future. It’s an extra sticky lithium grease basically. That moly grease stuff would/should also be fine but iirc lithium is better in/around bearings.

I parallel charge probably 95% of the time that I charge batteries. It allows a lower cell count setting though it then needs a higher amp setting. Series charging is actually safer because of the balancing but both methods are widely used 👍🏻

The capacitors should make no negative difference pack to pack, if it runs fine on one set and not the other then it’s not the capacitors. Did you by any chance take all the batteries outside when you went to play? If you did and for instance used the 5200mah first the 6200mah may have simply been cooling down? I’ve had the issue where batteries were very cold and had bigger all run time out of them in the past.

Does your old receiver have just afhds on it or does it say afhds 2a? And your transmitter tbh.

Yeah so if yours is just WiFi then it wouldn’t “just work” with a standard 5.8 fpv receiver (what that headset you linked seems to be). I don’t actually know of anything that’ll pick up a 5ghz WiFi signal tbh. Maybe just stick your phone in a Google cardboard type thing and do it that way? 🙂

Do you have to plug anything into your phone to receive the video or is it just WiFi?

Basically if you get a cheap tx and a cheap headset (£100-£150 total) you can use them with many quads…if you buy that hubsan then if you do want more you still need to buy another tx and headset.

I’ve never had motion sickness type issues while flying but I have had strange feelings a couple of times while using the oculus (mostly in zero g type stuff) but sitting down seems to help a lot. I probably sit down while flying 95% of the time. Umm yeah like it’ll do but like you know…it’s kinda umm like meh 😄

But it’s supposed to roll over it’s a monster truck 😆 This is why I prefer having a buggy and a monster truck and why I find truggies a bit boring (because if I have a buggy and a mt then I don’t need a truggy) 😀

Bear in mind that most of the stuff sold in the uk “stores” originated in China anyway so if you can deal with the wait times then order from China, if you are in a rush and are feeling flush then order from the uk 👍🏻

I’d get a used transmitter off Facebook (something like a taranis qx7, x9 lite etc. or even one of the multi protocol jobbers). And then some £50 box headset/goggles and something like an eachine trashcan/happymodel mobula 7 from China as a starter/dipping toes in water setup. On 2s at 50% max throttle it’s good for indoors or on max throttle it’ll be good for outdoors. Analog video is nowhere near as good as hd but it’s also nowhere near the cost - £50 goggles and £10 all in one vtx/camera as bottom end vs £500+ goggles and £100+ camera/vtx. If you then decide you like it there are bazillions of quads available (including building your own) as well as goggle upgrade options/hd options and you’d already have a suitable transmitter/usable basic headset.

I’d go bearings from AliExpress - use callipers or the manual to figure out the size needed and order sealed versions (usually rubber sealed). Body clips also from AliExpress and then a new wing/mount from yep..AliExpress if they sell parts but possibly banggood if they don’t. Imo the spare wheel/holder is more likely to snap off than a wing and won’t be as good for handling as a wing 👍🏻

I don’t do backorder for that very reason, I see it as more of a “we might get some at some point, we might not” so I either look elsewhere or find something different. Maybe you fancy sharing which items you are missing? Somebody here may have them going spare 👍🏻

Front toe out actually reduces straight line stability but does improve turning into bends. I would dial it back slightly but keep a small bit of toe out myself. On the rear a small amount of toe in is preferred because that does help with straight line stability as well as cornering 👍🏻👍🏻

The manual suggests it’s the lvc or your throttle trim isn’t in the middle. Is it detecting the right number of cells on powerup?