wolfie1

I have never broken a diff cup where you have strengthened it, its always at the hole where the pin goes through inside the diff

Arrived today thanks 🙂

Can you not just change the tyres and add some more weight down low to improve it?

Got to measure my wheels tonight my wheels are 86mm so these should fit ok being 90mm, so yea i will buy them wheels and tyres please

You will easy do it, if you get stuck with something just look on the xmaxx exploded diagrams of what goes where

Im not going to go out to my workshop now as its a howling gale with sideways rain here tonight, but will go measure them against mine to see if they are the right size for my trailer tomorrow and will let you know 🙂

Today i was having some diff issues so decided to strip down the rear end and shim the rear diff properly, when i took the centre diff out the super gloopy diff oil was more outside the diff than in it, so rebuilt that again. When i shimmed the diff before i just stuck in a .3 shim today i also added a .1 as a singular .5 was too much, if the rear diff goes again i am going to have to look into something more substantial as i rebuilt the rear 1 not long ago

I def think there is a considerable difference with them, 1 thing i would add is on the drop links there is a metal collar which holds the ball in, have these on the inside so if the collar pops off you dont lose it. so far i havent damaged them, had a collar pop off once a while ago, i squished it back in and its not come off again

Well i decided that kit was too expensive for what it was and found hub extenders from aliexpress and they are great, combination of the hub extenders and the anti roll bar kit has transformed it, i really think this is how it should have come from the factory. to install the anti roll bars (i went with the medium ones), first attach them to the vehicle in the central location behind the bumper and then see where you need to drill holes in the lower arms to attach the drop links These are the 24mm wider axle extenders im using https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185169366689?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=dJGZG_yrS82&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=MRHag3XmRgm&var=692925604531&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY The anti roll bars i bought are similar to these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142826095010?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=BZV_nEmwSMe&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=MRHag3XmRgm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I bash and speed runs, but i like going fast, the temp doesnt really get up that much in summer here tbh 😂 its Scotland. not sure what you mean about the mud flaps and anti roll bars, i am running the pos mud flaps with the arb’s without an issue if thats what you mean?

The fastrax ones that would be good for a trailer are they squishy and what is the overall height of them?, the ones on my trailer are too hard

On the xmaxx there isint a power cable to power auxilary circuits, well there is but its some dumbo traxxas connector that costs like a bijjilon pounds and goes to the traxxas lighting module, this way is a lot cheaper and works equally as well. the lead from the esc just goes to the receiver as normal for its signal and to power the receiver (red white and black) you dont need to do anything with that, leave it as is

Ooo i like the sound of a kit version to build, its been a while since i put a kit together, think it was my Kyosho Blizzard, but i just HATE cutting out bodies with a passion. Are spares readily available?

There is in and out wires from the ubec so in is from the battery connectors (battery voltage so 8s in this case) and out is your 8.4 volts which goes to your servo bypass wiring which in turn goes to your receiver and servo, think of it like this the servo is getting its signal what to do from the receiver and getting its 8.4 power from the ubec, there has to be a common ground (the -) as otherwise it wont work

Hope this makes sense to you

If you look on my thread its on page 1 you solder the jst onto those (i went for the male as i thought it was safer) 2 wires and then solder the other jst onto the ubec so if ever in the future you change the ubec its just plug and play, hope that makes sense, i will do i wiring diagram just now for you

This is the servo i have, you can get it on aliexpress for about £40 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/296173606053?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ofxqbxantho&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=MRHag3XmRgm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY this gives you everything you need to install it, again aliexpress is way cheaper https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374001872230?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hrl_7iplths&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=MRHag3XmRgm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I am using this ubec, i put it in a balloon to keep the water of it https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/339471/ a male and female jst plug, 1 which i soldered onto the wire from the bec and 1 which i soldered onto the plugs from the esc https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/70627/ and https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/70628/ And a servo bypass lead https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/443152 i think all in i was about £90, but you dont have to have the ubec, jst connectors and bypass lead and just run it from the receiver at 6v with just less torque, but will still be a lot more than the stock servo

So why would you not have another cross model?

I am running an external bec in mine with an 80kg servo at 8.4v, seems to work very well. Mine is the brand that has the little tractor on the casing

And now i see there is a 6 wheel drive unimog coooooooooooool!

Maybe its the cooling fans for the motor im thinking about then as i do remember having to take some material off fans, i would need to look back on my thread and see

I was quite liking the 6 wheel drive flat bed recovery truck thing that cross makes and at less than £400 delivered seems a good deal

More batteries as who doesnt like having their car out longer Also some stronger diff cups as mine are starting to wear where the driveshaft pins are, these were cheaper than stock but took a couple of weeks to come from aliexpress and some new titanium alley key bits as again they are well cheaper than buying in the uk and spare ones are handy

Its a 35mm fan you will need, the rocket fans are great, if you are going to fit them into the motor fan shroud thing, you will need to file a bit off, but its easy to do and doesnt take very long to do (they only work plugged in the wiring loom a particular way)

I have quite a few of the blue ones you linked in different models, they are a decent quality budget servo, 1 is the steering servo in a savage xl and it has been faultless for a long time now