Sandy Ravage

I recently had to pay a fine of

Finally got a Jconcepts Punisher wing, 4 months of BS from SMD about why they can't get it. Now trying to decide which set of side dams to put on to make my truggy handle better.

I have to say, top marks Pearce on the write up. But you seem to have missed out on the droop screws? Since day 1 of having my mini 8, I adjusted the droop screws as their set to flush on the arms and haven't had a single breakage since. Have you fettled with the droop screws and did you notice a difference?

Hi Kieran and welcome mate, TBH I have the Black Edition. While it's great for bashing, it's not very good for racing as it tends to grip roll a lot. Others may say differently. Sorry mate, I've had a warning for being abusive so I can't unleash any negative feedback. I don't have anything negative to say about Hyper's in general, after you've bulletproofed them and they are pretty tough.

Just thought I'd start this as their were a few threads already about the Mini-8ight, but no showroom. Makes life easier than trawling threads looking at other peoples Mini-8ights.

I've been using Ammo fuel with my Werks engine and have to say I think it's far better than Byrons, though only with the Werks engine. I use Byrons 25% & 30% everyday and don't see a lot of difference between them. IMO Byrons does smell nicer than any other nitro fuel I've used. Just wish it came in Mint or Aloe Vera.

@Nismo. Winter is the worst time to try and start your nitro, if you don't have some sort of engine pre-heater (RC-Surestart) Then you'll wasting your time. Forget all this " try a different glow-plug crap " Just pre-heat your engine with a hair dryer and see it start, then you can tune it. Simple. Forget the bull****.

I have to say I'm not too bothered being stung by customs. I recently got a Mini-8ight from the states and after paying the customs fee, still saved

Got my US import mini 8ight today and was very impressed compared the UK version my friend has. All shocks were filled and worked perfectly, where as my friends were half filled and saggy. I've had to completely remove the battery tray as the 3s lipo wouldn't fit, but the carbon top deck which I fitted keeps the lipo wedged in and the shell closely fits to stop the lipo moving. Run time was 50-60mins. I've changed both tin shock towers for carbon and the buggy feels much more responsive, also filled the diffs with losi smart grease. I'm still puzzled over the 3 black frizbee's I found in the box, they don't fly too well.

I have the front and rear brace, steering brace and engine mount on my 8T 2.0. It maybe just me, but it seems to make the truggy handle better, than the losi alloy bits. The engine mount has an extended part which the fuel tank screws onto and it's finished in black anodized with silver trim. It does seem lighter than the losi alloy bits, but I've yet to weigh and compare them. On a final note, I've yet to break anything made by Kingheadz, where as I've sheared 2 losi braces due to hard landings.

You hit the nail on the head their matey, Are you bone idle or lazy? Search out the answers on Google instead. Failing that, bin your rc and buy something that everyone knows something about.

I've never been bothered with the price of nitro fuel, the moment you think of the price I feel you've lost interest in the hobby. I listen to people day in/ day out and they all say is about the price of fuel, which I answer - Sell your ****ing models. Seems to bring them back to reality. TBH if your going to race/bash your models all year round then buy in bulk, I normally order 12 US gallons of Orange Juice (Byron's) in January as this will last me till mid March. I also store the fuel in the fridge to chill it down, as it seems to give the engines more grunt. I feel a lot of engines will run better on different fuels, Byron's has been great for the past year, but I'm starting to lean more towards Werks fuel for some reason

TBH Derek, I would say buy a spell checker instead. Judging by your initial post, I'd say you need it more!!! We don't all live in the ghetto.

I wouldn't pay more than

there are 2 types of engine bog,lean and rich. if its starving of fuel it will probably run ok when cold and first started up but lean bog when it starts to get warm. if its a rich bog it will struggle to run properly when cold but get slightly better as it warms up,usually kicking a lot of smoke out. With you setting the needles back to factory settings it is too rich and what it is trying to do is, the unburnt fuel is trying to put the glow out in the glow plug. If its too lean then the lean bog occurs because there is not enough fuel to let the engine rev.

I've run 11 gallons through mine in the past 18 months. Their great engines and very simple to tune. I did have a collar type washer made up that fits over the exhaust port to stop the rubber seal tearing though.

Bit steep, I pick these up in the States for £10 each inc P&P.

I find lately that using an RC Surestart does the trick as I keep it on the head when breaking in an engine. I've lost count of how many engines I've broken in for friends this year as I keep it dead on 200f, give it 3 tanks and race tune it.

I have the same engine mate. Picco don't make these anymore as they sold like hotcakes and they were a basic engine in Picco's eyes even if they outsold the higher priced engines.

Mooring rope, the thicker the better.

Don't worry about it mate, you'll get your items soon, though you could have a large handling fee to pay.

You could try Wheelspin Models, I know Proline do the closed cell inserts, but you have to order them from the States.

Losi 8 2.0E Punisher