bertberr

Lovely looking buggy that, you've done a great job with the shell, looks very early 90s with all that neon yellow! Very tempted by one, just know at the back of my mind that I should be freeing up some space not adding to it...

It does, but as far as I can see it doesn't specify what it discharges to, whereas on the discharge only function it lets you specify the voltage cut-off. I'll try 1.0v as above, see what happens!

Thought I'd bump this, to see if anybody knows of anything that may still be available? My 200QX finally bit the dust (board), and my XK X251 is starting to get a bit tired now too, with very few parts still available. Is LOS dead now?

I want to try to freshen up some of my older 7.2v NiMH stick packs, and wondered what would be a safe voltage to set as the pre-set voltage cut off (for discharging)? I know you don't want to go much below 3.3v on Lipo, but what about NiMH - any ideas? Thanks 👍

Yeah the pin issue is no biggie, likewise the motor, could easily have been due to the pin / binding, but can't say I'm happy about a design that lets the shock springs rub against a drive shaft... Certainly won't be rushing to swap the Maxx for one of these.

I'm interested in them, but would be good to know a price, and perhaps dimensions - width/overall diameter/offset? And whether they are defo Raid wheels with replaceable hexes? Think they might be F11's, but I'm no expert.

Never really thought about it, on the odd occasion I do get out for a bash these days, I try to pick spots with very few people around, and if someone does appear on my periphery then I just slow down / stop until they've passed.

Thanks for the recs guys, I'll check them out 👍

I don't pretend to be an RC chassis expert, in fact quite the opposite... but I thought that adding thicker oil to the diff is only going to make your problem worse. My understanding is the less grip / traction you have the less weight you want diff oil wise, and vica versa when running on high grip like carpet, you can go heavier on the diff oil. may have got that the wrong way round, but then I'm a basher not a racer. I am, however, having similar issues with my 2WD Blitz SCT right now, and started a thread just recently on it in General RC. Take a look, a few good suggestions from peeps on there. Have you tried softening up the rear end, and increasing rear toe?

Mine came with the Traxxas CVD's, not sure I'd have bothered myself, from what I hear / read, if you stay with 4S max, and don't continually use the self right, then the stock plastic shafts can last quite well, and if/when they do finally let go, they're cheap to replace. Really like this truck, much more than I ever expected to. Still running stock esc & servo too!

Been using the Blitz quite a bit recently on concrete / tarmac, and I'm finding it near impossible to keep it in a straight line under hard acceleration, and this is in the dry... Admittedly this is using various different off-road tyres though I did just try some (old) road tyres/wheels from my 1/8 buggies, on 12-17mm adapters, and they were just as bad. I'm not referring to spinning out in turns (it does do this too), but more when you pin it from a standstill, or even a rolling start, just no traction? I've softened the rear end a bit, and put in the 3 degree rear toe block, but not much better, reckon its got to be the tyres. But which ones to go for? Must be SCT fit i.e. 2.2/3.0. Truck is running a Mamba Max Pro with a Hobbywing 3656 4 pole 4700kv can on 2S.

Looks like a nice kit, and not crazy expensive compared to some Tamiya / Kyosho higher end buggies. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-cougar-classic-kit-1345198

Don't actually need the whole set, just one for the rear, though front & rear pieces are identical from what I can see. Let me know if you can help, thanks 👍

Nice hopper 👍

I love the truck too, great basher for where I mostly use my rigs. Mine has the CVD's but is still standard width, which, again, is fine for the loose surfaces I run it on. Still has the standard ESC too, which I was expecting to be utter crap based on what most of YT were saying, but I've found it OK so far. Servo is weak though, will be replacing that soon. Overall, a tough, fun rig, just glad I didn't have to buy it new...

Hopefully, because parts supply is not one of Kyosho's strong points right now. Almost given up on getting certain Legendry series parts now...

You say they're not cheap, no they're not, but what is in the RC world these days, at least something worth having? And, if you compare them to higher end 4x4 rere's from Mr.T then I'd say they were actually quite competitively priced for what you get, spec/quality wise. Anyway, looking forward to seeing your progress on this one, been thinking of adding one to my OG/ReRe Kyosho collection, just can't decide between this and the standard ReRe Optima.

That's interesting, really depends on how hard you are on your rig, as with any RC I guess. I know if you start looking online, you get all manner of 'essential' upgrades, which in most cases, are simply not needed. I put the third 4S pack through the Maxx just before the B/H weekend, and the truck was a real blast, did some fast/crazy (ground level-ish) stuff, some jumps, wheelies etc, and I have to say it didn't put a foot wrong. Interestingly, based on what you said about Google/forums etc, I have yet to roll the truck in a turn...and its the standard / original width. Before I bought it, I was sure I'd have to go widemaxx before anything else, but as it is, with where I run the truck i.e. loose, loamy, gravelly terrain, it just drifts. Three packs through and no rollovers. I realise that wouldn't be the case on grippier surfaces, but I'll only ever run mine on earth, gravel etc, so widemaxx simply isn't needed. Be interesting to see how you get on with this truck on the second attempt. I've always liked the Revo due to its slightly unusual design, just nice to have something a bit different from an engineering perspective, that can cut it as a decent basher.

Have you had any trouble with your first one with toe links / push rods? I understand they are / can be a weak point on the Revo?

Trust the Devon boy to have the best ghetto solution 😁

The original jconcepts sales blurb mentioned the LMT and Maxx but they're just 17mm hex MT wheels, so pop on whatever takes your fancy. Couple of US channels had them on a Maxx two months ago.

Anybody got any experience of this servo (CLS6336HV) in a heaviesh 1/10 like Maxx or a 1/8 MT? Any good? Do they last reasonably well? Or is better to pony up and spend another 10-15 quid on the brushless version?