Garry

liquid fuel from the exhaust can be a sign its a touch too rich and isn't igniting the fuel. Its a 2 stroke engine though and as the fuel is also the lubrication, it needs a bit of liquidity to work. Is the fuel old or fresh? Fuel is hydroscopic, it absorbs moisture so it could be water you're seeing? Try a brand new glowplug first though.

MonkeykingRC charge lead in Orange and some battery tape for me today. Used up my £10 Modelsport voucher I won last month 👌🏻

Its all a bit attention-seeky, its still just toy cars. TL:DR, guy gets sacked for doing something he shouldn't have. Cries about it in a 40min video which could have been 10, 15 max.

Mere grams, less than 50g so barely noticeable. I agree the effort isn't worth the gain other than pure amusement.

They are a great upgrade to a lot of ESCs which come in RTR cars, UK based too.

How many AAs does it take? Each AA is 1.5v nominal so it'll help figuring out which pack you'll need. Chances are though the PCB speed controller can't taker higher voltage than on AAs so you'll gain nothing by going LiPo.

Which wheels are the ones which turn? Dfferentials are the next port of call to investigate. Make sure they are getting driven then check to see they are distributing the power to the wheels.

I Shall report back tonight.

Loctite gel but proper thin RC tyre glue is mega quick to use once you get the hang of it. 2 or 3 spots is enough to flow entirely around the bead.

Carbon is stiff but on;y strong in certain directions. I'd go alloy and if that gets damaged then you'll have to accept you're probably at the limitation of the design platform. No car is indestructible.

How many racrs do we have in here? Club level? Iconic level? BRCA national level? Whats your man racer?

''Stick a Pony in me pocket, I'll fetch the suitcase from the van...''

What iis the mostpointless RC item you've spent money on? I tried nitro many years ago and I wasted £ 8.99 for this: Its a nitro engine stopper. You shove the pointy end in the exhaust pipe to choke the engine to s stop. When I raced 8th buggy my local track mandated all marshals had one at all times to disabled an out of control car. I raced nitro 6 months and used the thing exactly once. And it didn't fit the pipe outlet properly so i has to remove the body and pinch the fuel line anyway!

There's nothing on the market designed for people like me, the market for equipment is tiny so its just not cost effective for a manufacturer to create a product suitable for disability especially when every disability is different, my hemiplegia would cause different challenges if I were affected on the opposite side, probably a bigger hurdle to overcome. Adapting something is much easier than starting from scratch.

That charger is useable but its very far from being a good choice. Slow charging times, no control over aspects of the charge etc. It gets you started but you've found the limitations already. Going LiPo requires you to buy another charger anyway as yours is incompatible with Lithium cell chemistry. In general LiPo batteries take more care and attention to use them safely, they can never be totally flattened n to zero nor charged above a certain voltage. They do give better performance but if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend upgrading those just yet. NiMH packs are very user friendly and ideal for people who don't have the time or opportunity to maintain models on a weekly or monthly basis.

Simply put the battery isn't fully charged. Heres the maths. Its a 4400mah battery. Its a slow charger which charges at a rate oh 500mah so, 4400 divided by 500 equals 8.8 hours from fully flat to fully charged. Being a Nickel based battery chemistry it won't have done it any good being charged on a charger of that type nor being left unused for so long. Those types of chargers are advertised to let the vehicle be advertised as ready to run which it does, but really need to be replaced fairly quickly after purchase with one more capable of higher charging rates. Around £50 will be plenty too get a mucgh more suitable charger which can charge faster ad be kinder to the battery.

These will help you gripping the shock shaft to screw on ball ends: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=389668&gclid=Cj0KCQjwl4v4BRDaARIsAFjATPkKHbQwDuWqMNimcsczwsU5W5R8krXdTDpQYn4AE_U5uAhhux8s51gaAsESEALw_wcB

How about the voltage checkers with LCD displays mounted so you can see it through the window in the body? Maybe onto a bracket fixed to the chassis somewhere? https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/143614225425?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=143614225425&targetid=908661474856&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1006892&poi=&campaignid=10195651586&mkgroupid=107296210212&rlsatarget=pla-908661474856&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113587543&gclid=Cj0KCQjw0YD4BRD2ARIsAHwmKVnnPFbT4qPEn5xstgvJ30wwC7nDxzdca3Ohmi9-RBRuDFdXo0_FY6caAt9cEALw_wcB

6.68v divided by 2 is 3.34v per cell. I don't let my packs go below 7.85v ( 3.92v per cell). Its not the ultimate super-discharged state but gives headroom before things get damaged. Circa 3.5v per cell is when things start to go bad.

This is on my radar to get and try on my Frontie this year, Just got to kill off my Rcon Hyundai i30 and PF SEAT Leon first when we can go racing again

I've been elbow deep in a mancave reorganisation 👍🏼

Yay its 239mm so I can drop one on my M07.