Nitroholic

That's the micro collection. I have a 120SR, plus some non Eflite helis and a Nano-CP. The tandem was a bargain. Came as part of a badly dezscribed job lot on E-Bay along with a construction set of those cast your own blocks to build model houses. Normally they go for around £80 when they show up on E-Bay, but that is rare. Left to right.... MsrX , Msr, Msr with an S300 canopy modded to fit, mCX2. 3 mCX, mCX S300 and the tandem twin. Have the boxes for most too. Probably have enough spares to put another few together. Have a white body set and stickers, which might go on one of these.

I think I might have an addiction .....

These were a pretty poor clone of a rather poor old buggy. The motor layout is similar to that used in the onroad FG cars, which limits what you can do for an exhaust. They also shipped with awful carbs, which should be swapped for a proper Walbro unit if it hasn;t already been done. For shocks, FG ones are probably as close as you will get. Measure the length, and shop for something similar. The fittings should be close enough to work without much effort. You really should have a brake setup. Again, it looks a bit similar to FG brakes. Might be possible to work out something there.

Started with a Blade mCX .... then mSR then micro CP and a 120SR. Haven;t gone up sizes from that as I was a bit restricted in terms of where I could fly. Have built up a collection of mCXs..... Have a stocker, one S300 version plus the Tandem Twin. Well, actually, I have 4 mCX in flyable state plus a load of spares. Got 2 mSR's and an mSRx plus spares. I bought a few job lots off E-Bay, so I have frames, booms, boards, landing gear, bodies. Most of the fixing they have needed to get flyable was cleaning up or replacing servos. I have a decent sized garage to fly indoors, which is handy when the weather is bad. I have a couple of cardboard 'heli pads' that I put in various locations and fly circuits. It's good practice for flying 'nose in' Got my first mCX not long after they came out. Saw one in the local Hobbystore, and the guy had a demo to try. He lifted off, put it into a hover....then put down the control and it stayed put. That level of stability was perfect to learn the basics. OK...he was just showing off really, but the thing was, trying to learn on a twitchy heli might get you better skills, but it won;t get you flying quickly.

Anything is possible. Can it be that difficult? Sure can. Depends if there is a ready made motor mount for you to use. If there isn't then you will have to either modify another mount or your chassis to accept it. Then find a battery tray and somewhere to mount the ESC. How hard that is depends on you, the tools you have available and how close in terms of dimensions the centre diff mount on your buggy is to one for which mounts are available. of course.... Google helps... https://www.eurorc.co.uk/page/28/how-to-convert-xray-xb8-into-xb8e

That's a bold styling statement. and an interesting pricepoint. Put those two together, and you have a recipe for a truck that will stick to the store shelves like a limpet.

I do still have all the M5 part STL's. I think they are the final versions, but some may not be. Plus there are some parts with multiple versions. You would need to sort through them to work out exactly which parts are needed. The exhaust and the radiator are straight forward. I also made replacement aluminium sideplates. There is a load of pics I took which show the plates and how they sat on the bike. Should be possible to work out what you need from what I have. edit: I have uploaded the files/images to a free upload file site. Will be there for the next couple of weeks. https://easyupload.io/w4fl9f

Brushless motors are rated in KV ..... the KV basically is a measure of RPM per volt. The motor should have a max amp draw...which you use to gauge the ESC you need to have. Quite easy to buy a motor/ESC combo ready to go, which saves the hassle. Then you choose a battery that is able to supply the current... use the formuls Mah value/1000 x C rating. So a 5000mAh 30c pack ... 5000/1000 = 5 ... 5x30=150, so you can power a 150A ESC. Just. Also look at the number of poles. Generally, a 4 pole motor will be smoother than a 2 pole. Higher KV rated motors spin faster, but have less torque. In broad terms, a 3300KV motor is around a 13.5T equivalent, with 4300KV being around 9T. Can;t recommend a setup though, as I am not a boat guy. You can't play with the gearing, and prop size and rpm matter. Thats all I know

Most of my RC stuff is so non standard and personalised, I tend to just keep them. I have a good pile of parts, which is where things like my 6WD 4WS Hyper 7 came from. You sort through the spares and chuck stuff on the bench and think...hmm....and a buggy is born. Hard to move that sort of thing on, as it's a bit niche, and very much for me. Neither of my Savages are close to stock, so something like a Twinzilla chassis is something I would never get again if I sold it. Throw in handmade parts, and there is a lot of time and effort there to make something unique. Oh..and my extra short extra wide FG Monster sized Baja is another one. But...I might be robbing that for parts to build a half track. If I can sort out the sprocket drives and differential braking system I think I need. That's how the German WW2 half tracks worked. The front wheels were undriven, and the steering was linked to both wheels and a track braking system. The US M3 style halftracks used a 4WD system. Which might be possible given the proximity of the driven wheels. You build a thing like that, and it's hard to just throw it away or sell it. Mind you....I also haven't made a petrol Savage with a CY motor yet. I have several sketch plans for a hook up to a centre diff to keep the height down and still keep 4WD.

Part No. 20 is the one way bearing. Or rather, to be 100% accurate, the bearing and it's housing. The bearing is pressed into the hex part. I have replaced bearings on their own before as it saves a few ££, as long as you know what you are doing. Your MT seems to be fitted with a dual starter setup. Pullstart, or drillstart. Part 22 effectively allows the drill starter to bypass the pullstart assembly and drive the crank directly. But if your one-way bearing is shot...then you definitely want to replace it. If it was me...I'd replace the pullstart, clean the one way bearing and see. If the pullstart slips...replace the bearing.

why are you running a motor in at tickover? If you bought a new car, would you park it in the drive and leave it to idle for an hour or so? Doubt it. It's even worse for a 2 stroke engine. This isn't a nitro motor, it's a ringed piston in a chrome bore. Just drive it gently for a bit to let things bed in, check head bolts are tight and start giving it more gas. All that happens when you force a 2 stroke motor to idle for extended periods is you build up unburnt fuel in the crankcase, which is probably causing your odd running behaviour. It can also foul the plug too.

HPI were generally better ... but the Bullet MT3.0 was not one of their finest. HPI even did an official video showing how to fit fuel tube into the drive cups to stop them spitting out driveshafts. Savages I love. Bullets not.

Bushings are fine up to a point, but they get put on basic motors in place of bearings for cheapness. Upping the volts will increase rpm, and that's going to potentially give issues. A better esc is still desirable. Just because you are not using it to the max shouldn't be a worry. I have a couple of trucks with 6s capable esc that I run on 4s. Easy to slap a bigger pack in, change gearing and go crazy....but reliability will always suffer.

All the specs I can find for that motor say 2S. I mean...you CAN run it on 3S. How long it lasts I wouldn;t like to say. Going to get hot, and as it's running on bushes not bearings too...it's going to struggle I would say. Dropping the gearing a bit might help...but to be honest....sticking with 2S makes more sense. When the motor dies....then look at a brushless replacement that can handle 3S if you want to go that way. Consider also the extra stress on the driveline.

I'd steer away from the Tamiya ones as the truck they go on is 1/12 scale.... but basically, the offset looks pretty standard, so it's all down to the overall diameter. If in doubt...you can always give the shop a call. I've always found them helpful.

then your wheels would have been these ones: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325666264262 Look like bog standard 1/10 monster truck wheels/tyres.... so... https://www.modelsport.co.uk/wheels-tyres/wheels-tyre-sets/truck/110/12mm-hex?

If this is the 1/8 truck, if I remember right...these were 17mm hexes, but had the HUGE offset. these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315091795333?hash=item495cef3d85:g:XeQAAOSw~jlloS9S They turn up from time to time on E-Bay, usually at stupid prices as they get bolted onto other trucks to give a very wide stance. An alternative is to find some extended wheel hexes so you can use more normal offset truck wheels and tyres. oh...and I wouldn;t buy those ones. £60..and they are ruined.

If you are having fun with nitro....why change? I still have a few nitro trucks, but I also have some I converted to brushless. A reasonable conversion can be had for a Hyper 7, but by the time you get batteries, charger, motor, ESC and copnversion parts it will leave a £500 hole in your bank balance. It's down to you whether you think that's something you want to do.

Good to hear you are sorted. If you did decide to go for a lower KV motor, there is no need to change ESC unless the motor you chose was likely to pull more than 60A. Most motors in the size you need would be fine, but it;s always goot to check before you buy. Should be in the description/specs.

That motor is higher KV than I would go on a 4WD off roader. I would say it is almost certainly the motor not being right for the buggy. Taking out the drive to the front wheels would reduce the torque load, and as soon as you did that...your car was happier and the cogging stopped. I would try another motor. I would go for a 3600Kv or lower motor. That would have more torque.

Cogging can also stem from an inadequate battery. The motor wants to run, but the battery can;t supply the amps. Revving the motor with the wheels off the ground is under no real load, so it goes fine. Things are breaking down under load....so if it;s not the gearing putting too much load on, it could be the battery. What motor/ESC combo do you have in the truck and what battery type and rating are you using? A 1/10 scale could easily be running a brushless setup able to pull 60 or so amps. Run it on a 3000Mah 7.2V NiMh pack, and it won't be happy

life's for learning 🙂

Let me stand in for the Traxxas hate. This is a UK model of car, on a well proven platform that could be fun, even though they massively over price it for what it is. Thry have officially licensed it, and loads of Ford fans would probably buy it. So lets NOT import it to the UK. But a stupid dragster? Sure...have all you want! Dumb. There. Someone had to do it.

Its hte overly chunky rollcage in bright yellow, plus the silly design of battery box with the underside flap and huge hole on top to let all the crud in. It just looks like a toy car. Not a scale model. It's probably very capable for what it is, but when you consider some of the very pretty 1/10 RC's Kyosho have made, just making it 'easy' to use and service shouldn't mean it looks like a toy. I mean....look at the Turbo Scorpion, the Beetle, the Optima, the Tomahawk. Which would you rather be running around with in the park?

I think dropping the metal spur is wise. It's a cheap part and easy to replace. I always try and keep a sacrificial part. In the event if overstressed incidents, it does control how and where failures happen. But to be honest, with petrol motors, the only plastic spur I ever replaced was due to a stone getting in. The plastic cover lost a clip and I was just unlucky. Brushless puts a higher load on, as it's more immediate than a clutch take up. Sounds like you are having fun dialling this thing in!