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After spending a few weeks clearing, preparing and building an 1:8 scale course it's finally finished! Time to race some rally cars round it then ....

Sorry had a bit of trouble reading that cause a bit of sick came out..

Some new updates to me ion: Shocks now refitted and full of oil 45wt oil, rebuild kit used to seal up the shocks. Also managed to get some rc18t truck wheels and tires on there. Was a bit of a challenge as they use drive pins. used mini t steel dogbones and stub axles and some 8mm od 7mm id brass pipe as a spacer and all works like a charm!!!

I run the hobby wing combo too (albeit black but identical other than colour) and its amazing, I am geared for 70mph on 6S Motor I can easily hold for 10 elephants, in fact I can hold it continual without discomfort and I can run my 7600mah 4S packs untill dead with hard running and the motor is 'slightly warm' AMAZING combo and would defiantly defiantly rate it

Shud of bought them when I had them for sale a couple of weeks ago lol

It's all good , as long as we're smiling that's all that counts

I doubt ill be out this weekend tis my birthday Sunday hence the name patrick

My exo: My Baja

Hi all, im running out of ideas and im stumped!! need some help ... basically i have a hyper 7 and a 1/10th tamiya on road nitro rc cars and im struggling to get them both running, iv done weeks or research trying different things, all new spark plus, new glow starter, stripped the carbs down and cleaned, new fuel, factory needle setting etc, even tried a hair dryer to warm up the engines thinking it may be the cold weather ... here whats happened ... Hyper 7 eventually after trying everything i have had it started, running for half a tank then it run out, tried starting it again and nothing! tryed a fast drill (roto start) and it fired first time then stops again! .... driving me crazy! ... now trying it and it just doesn't sound like its turning over right and obviously not firing! Tamiya tried all of the above and had it started, remove the starter and dies, then doesn't want to fire again! then had it started and stopped again! i love this hobby and i love my cars, however shall i just give up on these? i don't know what else to try ...... thanks all

My Baja SS. Its the first large scale ive had. Still not run it. Not want to get it dirty. Lol.

A trailer after the chair would look so cool alnost like hes sat in the middle of a truck

Can't go wrong with a hyper conversion, rollers are only worth

Soldered the new ESC into the Trophy Flux, thankfully the motor was ok so it's spotlessly clean and running perfectly. I've swapped the plastic steering bushes for 10x6x3 bearings so it's a bit quicker and smoother too. Just need double sided tape to stick it down and it's done.

They've not made a working model yet. The model at Nuremberg is the same which they brought to Modelsport as well, I've had a good fiddle with it and there is random bits missing, most of the parts are just built to show what it 'would look like' and don't even function. It's going to be a while yet! Rumors are they can't make the engine run efficiently enough - not enough to make it worth buying over a nitro anyway!

You can see the Andromeda Galaxy (M31) with the naked eye and thats 2.25 million light years away. Lag might be an issue though

have a look here mate for spares http://www.sriremotetoys.co.uk/ansmann-ansmann-kryptonite-c-2_281_279.html

Well I need some spares Looking for centre diff and shafts, Carl you got any? I no it's an ansmann but I'll make other parts fit

no mention of the price still probs about a fiver less than a 5b

Heres a beauty http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/26cc-petrol-2-stoke-remote-control-buggy-baja-fg-marder-rep/1011557691

fair enough BUT, im an engine nut, brushless is better in every way. BUT it sounds crap like a argos toy lol. so nitro it is.

looks like i better save some more cash The Maverick Blackout XB 1:5th 4WD Buggy!

well no point sitting in a draw waiting on a chassis see what it does to the hyper lol

you park directly behind it. so as you can see the car park is directly behind the track, all you have to do if you wish is to carry your stuff about 5-6meters to the pit bench. or if you like you can pop out a fold out table next to your car. its literally right next to the track.

Loving the paint job there Outlaw.

Props fitted just need to powerup now, Waooooo power,dont you dare say anything Tamiyacowboy lol Just need to set up the compass now in an open space and see how many satalites we have got to play with..

I managed to get the painting and detailing done so here come the pics!

I'd maybe look on eBay for a strimmer/chainsaw petrol tank. Or if you was to weld a metal one you'd probably be best starting with a metal tank, then cutting down and welding. http://bit.ly/13UI8tL (not the best example) Edit... Just had a look on eBay, just search petrol tank in garden & patio. Loads of shapes and sizes! Here's one http://bit.ly/13UJtB5 This seller has a fair few, I'm sure if you give him your required dimensions he will have something to suit. Bit hard to gauge size in pictures...

not yet, waiting for custom spur and a variety of turnbuckles and ballends to arrive hopefully should have an update in a week edit: guess what just turned up MY SPUR wohoo: Another top job from Neil at RW Racing

8 weeks till rc modelz will have T1000 in stock thats a long time to be without any rc action....

iv got many videos of the track mate. here ya go. lets put your car to the ultimate test! even though its only practice.

Great! Now convince yourself you need the brushless version

A video of me and Joe GT on our Rally X Course

if your just removing a bit of material use the wet sanding method (keep dipping sand paper in a bucket of water), it will keep any risk of dust down ....... also dont wear nice clothes when working with carbon, some cheap gloves are worth it, its not the easiest stuff to wash off your hands. A dremel will obviously do a faster job of it but will generate a lot of dust, and that's something you don't want to inhale at any cost, wear the right protective gear and its safe as houses

the Monster/Hummer/MB Pro/Stadium etc are all based on the same chassis so are exactly the same except for roll cage, body mounts & the shell its self. Also the stock gearing on the MT is different to that of the ST, as the wheels are different sizes. Yup, you can fit Bigfoot (MT) wheels/tires onto the marder with no mods needed & they fit fine with no rubbing etc ...i did it myself & i loved the look of it, if its ground clearance you like, then this maybe a good option for you \o/ As for where to buy: http://rc-car-online.de/shop/en/97-fg.html take ya pic Hobbythek (in my opinion) is the best place to buy from, postage is good, fast & the customer service is top notch

Looked it & picked a bit of the plasticote off :/

That's it make me want one even more :-/ not like I have any spare kidneys left to sell :-( anyone know we're I could sell a lung? Sure I could get used to the one :-)

People.

just make sure all servos are centred. all trims are neutral. RE-CHECK servos when all connected to surfaces. check pitch up/down rudder left/right aerlions left/right. then pop out side hold craft tight and check throttle range. see if motor turns correct and air is blowing towards the tail, if air is blown towards the nose the motor needs wires need swapping over. turn off brake on esc / set lipo battery, soft cutoff. maybe grab a lipo alarm/tester/buzzer and install to. also first flight, trim her when able to get fairly high then trim for level flight at 40% throttle or a speed to your liking.. you may find her nose heavy so slip battery backwards to the tail a little bit. then come down to around 15/20ft and cruise/power fly till you hear lipo alarm buzzer from plane. make down this time and program you handset timer to it. this way if you cannot hear plane alarm you will hear the handset warning. Just because it flys fast does not mean you should fly at that max speed.

Update: Thanks guys, I Just bought a Traxxas Stampede.

Bits came in today. Rebuilt the 5ive with new rear and centre drive cups ,new bearings, fresh oil ,new boots and driveshaft pins Drivetrain back to silky smooth

Ordered one, thanks

Try this step set. hook up motor to esc, hook up servos, hook up rx. make sure bind plug is in. now power up system by hooking up the esc battery. check rx is blinking. now power up TX and if a dx6I ( hold the trainer toggle switch in on mode) ok once the tx is bound , unplug battery from esc, un plug bind plug, re=power up , tx on first then power the system. the esc now should now emit a small tune " beep beep beeeep beep beep" now it should be ready to enter setting on esc and program the cutoffs etc etc. what ESC is that buddy ? right its a 18-20 or likes esc. first off set end points. power up tx and put throttle to 100% now power up esc, you should here a tone/beep/tune, once it stops, put throttle to 0% thats the end points set. now with esc sat infront of you on the right side , red battery wire at bottom black battery wire at top. on left side : top left side wire is negative black, center wire is Positive RED, bottom left is signal yellow

Im currently an apprentice fabrication welder, i work in a fairly decently equipped workshop for welding and machining so i spend my lunchtimes doing my own things cause i do a better range on my own stuff than usual work and have a selection of sheet metal tools like folders and also a lathe at home. I wanted to make things like it so set myself to learn the trade as i grew up around classic British cars. Im very excited about the finished car!

I went with this paint job. Still have the spot lights to fit and paint the casing.

Im not fussed my hyper is waterproof lol

Great vid mate.

i think they did a book about your "old merc", 50 shades of silver :xd: in all fairness though, it would look spot on parked up at the local golf club

Here is my best method for unsoldering big bullets. 1. Get a block of wood and drill a hole into it that will hold the bullets securely. Just deep enough that they go in, not so deep that they disappear. This is better than a third hand tool or pliers etc as the wood doesn't conduct the heat away like metal does. 2. You need a good soldering iron. A temp controlled soldering station should work well. You may need to set it to near its maximum for the desoldering. You need a good big tip on the iron too. 3. Get a small blob of solder onto the tip of the iron. This will help with the heat transfer. You may need to feed in a little more once the iron is applied to the bullet. 4. Remember that the wires will get very hot so don't try and handle them unaided. Pliers at the ready. It may take a minute or two for the heat to penetrate fully, but it will work. You don't need flux when desoldering.

Great pictures!! You can hardly even tell how small it is